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Old 10-06-2009, 09:26 PM   #1
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Default 120v HLT

I've done a few searches but can't seem to come up with a definitive answer.

I have a 17 gallon aluminum pot that I will use for an HLT. I will be making 10 gallon batches.

Is it feasible to use 2000w, 120v heater for this application?

I'm guessing a little over an hour to get 10 gallons to 170. After removing the strike water I can top off the HLT for the sparge water volume. This can get up to temp during the mash.

Does this sound reasonable?

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Old 10-06-2009, 09:54 PM   #2
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I don't think it'll be enough. I use that size element in conjunction with my electric stove to get to a boil for 6.5 gal, usually in about 30 mins starting from mash temp.

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Old 10-06-2009, 10:46 PM   #3
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Grems, do you know what the element on your stove is rated at?

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Old 10-07-2009, 12:01 AM   #4
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I'm also thinking it won't be enough, especially with out insulation. Back of the envelope calculation with no losses puts it at 75mins, thats 2000W in, bringing 10gal of water from 68F-170F.

If your system is not insulated you will be fighting the conductive nature of your big aluminum pot. Aluminum likes to conduct heat. Figuring out how much heat you'd be losing through the pot would be a little more involved and would depend on your environment(ambient temp, any airflow around the container).

Any way you could get more power into it? Either a 240V feed or using 2 120V legs to power two different elements?

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Old 10-07-2009, 12:25 AM   #5
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This is plausible...

Lets look at this.

#1. Not having insulation will hurt you, bottom line.
#2. 2000W to heat to 170F will take about 75 minutes yes.... BUT
#3. Depending on how much strike you use (7.5 gallons?) you will have 2.5 at 170F left in the HLT.
#4. How much will you need to sparge? Oh, say from your 7.5 strike you get5.5 back out and want to boil 12 gallons?? You need 6.5 to sparge with.
#5 You need to add 4.0 gallons to the HLT at say 65F?
#6. If you add 4 gallons at 65F to 2.5 gallons at 170F you will have 6.5 gallons at 105F.
#7. To get from 105 to 170 is a diff. of 65F which with 6.5 gal. volume will take about 30 minutes.

It is doable... but NOT being insulated will hurt you badly, these values are based on decent heat retention. Test it on a dry (wet) run... if it doesnt work, then use another element. OR insulate your HLT and you will be ok.

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Old 10-07-2009, 12:38 AM   #6
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Insulation is under consideration. I think this stuff will give me close to the same R-factor as a cooler. http://www.mcmaster.com/#9385k23/=3y5f2p

As far as more power, running 240 into the garage isn't in the budget right now. Two elements would work but I think I'd need to 2 controllers as well, right?

Thanks for the calcs, Pol.

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Old 10-07-2009, 12:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arturo7 View Post
Insulation is under consideration. I think this stuff will give me close to the same R-factor as a cooler. http://www.mcmaster.com/#9385k23/=3y5f2p

As far as more power, running 240 into the garage isn't in the budget right now. Two elements would work but I think I'd need to 2 controllers as well, right?

Thanks for the calcs, Pol.
I am not convinced you need 2 elements, as I stated above, this is doable! If it is a 17 gal. HLT, why ONLY heat 10 gal to begin with? The MORE you heat initially, the less time it will take to heat when you top off the HLT. However, as you can see above, even starting at 10 gallons will work fine. 60 minute mash? You only need 30 to get the topped up HLT to sparge temp.

If you had two elements you could use a single PID and an SSRD to switch the two hot legs to the two elements I presume.

Doing a lto of calculating in my free time lately!
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:33 AM   #8
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Alright, I'm going for it! With the insulation I think it will work just fine.

The only remaining concern is the ability of the 2000w element to maintain a full-pot boil to build up the oxide layer.



Is there a good thread on controller options?

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Old 10-07-2009, 01:37 AM   #9
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Sorry, I have no idea what output my stove is. It's your run of the mill crappy apartment electric stove...

Obviously, if you CAN do two elements, why not? You'll have time in the long run, and it's not like it'll cost you more to do it (theoretically doubling the heating power = 1/2 the time to heat). Not sure if it REALLY works that way without doing some math... and I don't want to

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Old 10-07-2009, 01:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arturo7 View Post
Alright, I'm going for it! With the insulation I think it will work just fine.

The only remaining concern is the ability of the 2000w element to maintain a full-pot boil to build up the oxide layer.



Is there a good thread on controller options?
You will not boil with 2000W... I can tell you that.

If you are looking for a PID, I would buy the Auber Inst. SYL2352. That is pretty common in HBing and many of us can help you program it.
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