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Sawdustguy · 02-06-2010, 06:50 PM

Here is my $112 RIMS Tube. I bought all the fittings brand new from KLG Stainless for $112. The only thing extra I had to buy was the gaskets which were from Ebay. I paid $3.50 for 10 pieces and $5.00 shipping. Keep in mind that this could be built less expensively if you are patient enough to purchase the parts off of Ebay. The advantage of this RIMS is that it can be taken apart for cleaning and draining very easily and it looks damn good. It should work perfectly. The element I will use is a 7 3/4" 120 volt 1500 watt low density element. My probe is a DS18S20 in a stainless steel thermowell made by Derrin. The probe will be held in place with a 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting. If one needs a longer tube all you need to do is add a 1 1/2" Tri clamp union of sufficient length or another 1 1/2" tee. If mounted in the horizontal plane the middle tee could be used as a drain and closed with a 1 1/2" Tri Clover end cap. Is this enough Bling for you Pol?

cascadia · 02-06-2010, 06:57 PM

beautiful

Any pictures with the element installed?

Sawdustguy · 02-06-2010, 06:59 PM

I haven't bought the new element yet. I should have one in a couple of days and I will take a picture with the element and temperature probe installed.

cascadia · 02-06-2010, 07:03 PM

Awesome, I look forward to it. Thanks for sharing your build.

burton391 · 02-06-2010, 07:53 PM

looking good!

lamarguy · 02-06-2010, 08:02 PM

*devil's advocate*

I certainly like the ability to quickly and easily disassemble the unit, but I'm not a fan of the minimal spacing between he entry and exit ports. Much of the flow will be stagnant near the base of the heating element and at the top of the temp probe. I understand that you extended the temp probe to obtain a more accurate reading, but the design really needs the entry/exit ports placed closer to the ends of the tube to be optimal.

KingKegII · 02-06-2010, 08:05 PM

Looks great! Would love to see some pics of it taken apart. So the element and sensor go in the ends, right? How will you bring the wort lines in, hose barb w/ some type of flexible hose/tubing, or will you hard-pipe into the RIMS tube?

Again, that tube looks awesome and should be a breeze to clean. Can't wait to hear how it works.

Cheers.

Sawdustguy · 02-06-2010, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarguy

*devil's advocate*

I certainly like the ability to quickly and easily disassemble the unit, but I'm not a fan of the minimal spacing between he entry and exit ports. Much of the flow will be stagnant near the base of the heating element and at the top of the temp probe. I understand that you extended the temp probe to obtain a more accurate reading, but the design really needs the entry/exit ports placed closer to the ends of the tube to be optimal.

I don't know about that. Let me test it.

ScubaSteve · 02-08-2010, 05:25 PM

This is flipping sweet.

So, I plan on using a longer 5500w element. A couple questions:

-If I bought a 3rd tee and had that in the middle pointing down....would an endcap be sufficient to drain by loosening the clamp? Or, would it make less of a mess using a 1/2" coupler and screwing in a petcock drain?
-How deep does your element threading go into the coupler? Are you sealing it with teflon tape, or is there still a way to use the locknut and gasket?
-Does the PVC/expoxy endcap interfere with the coupler?

XXguy · 02-08-2010, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarguy

*devil's advocate*

I certainly like the ability to quickly and easily disassemble the unit, but I'm not a fan of the minimal spacing between he entry and exit ports. Much of the flow will be stagnant near the base of the heating element and at the top of the temp probe. I understand that you extended the temp probe to obtain a more accurate reading, but the design really needs the entry/exit ports placed closer to the ends of the tube to be optimal.

Flip the one "T" onto it's side - so the unit would look more like:

I-:-'-:

Add a spacer in the center if more depth was needed for the element.