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-   -   1 inch square tubing enough for 3 keggles? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/1-inch-square-tubing-enough-3-keggles-153955/)

BucksPA 12-28-2009 11:59 PM

1 inch square tubing enough for 3 keggles?
 
I've been looking around for some steel lately and just got a good quote on some stainless steel 1" x 1" x 11 gauge (.120) for $226 cut and shipped. I figured mild steel would only be $50, plus at least another $100 for powder coating, so for $75 more, i'd rather just get stainless steel.

My question is, will 1" x 1" x .120 be enough to hold the filled weight of 3 keggles on a single tier system?

thanks.

ReeseAllen 12-29-2009 12:19 AM

As long as the welds are done properly, I don't see why not. Will there be supports in the middle, or just on the corners?

BucksPA 12-29-2009 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReeseAllen (Post 1769013)
As long as the welds are done properly, I don't see why not. Will there be supports in the middle, or just on the corners?

here's the world's fastest Paint rendition. The red bars are cross bars to hold the kegs and the blue circles are my burners.

[IMG]http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5...ensions.th.jpg[/IMG]

ReeseAllen 12-29-2009 12:45 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by BucksPA (Post 1769038)
here's the world's fastest Paint rendition. The red bars are cross bars to hold the kegs and the blue circles are my burners.

[IMG]http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5...ensions.th.jpg[/IMG]

Seems OK to me. And you can always weld in an extra pair of legs in the middle if it ends up seeming flimsy.

When you get the steel cut for this, make the top a miter-cut frame and then weld the legs on like in the attached drawing. The legs should be a continuous piece with square cuts on both ends. Everything other than the top frame and the four legs can then just be cut with square ends and welded together how you'd imagine.

edit: I also recommend getting some 1x1 pieces of 1/2" plate and welding them to the bottom of each leg. After welding, flip the stand upside-down and drill and tap a hole in the center of each plate for a swivel foot or caster.

BucksPA 12-29-2009 04:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReeseAllen (Post 1769062)
Seems OK to me. And you can always weld in an extra pair of legs in the middle if it ends up seeming flimsy.

When you get the steel cut for this, make the top a miter-cut frame and then weld the legs on like in the attached drawing. The legs should be a continuous piece with square cuts on both ends. Everything other than the top frame and the four legs can then just be cut with square ends and welded together how you'd imagine.

edit: I also recommend getting some 1x1 pieces of 1/2" plate and welding them to the bottom of each leg. After welding, flip the stand upside-down and drill and tap a hole in the center of each plate for a swivel foot or caster.

thats a huge help. thanks for pointing that out. i planned on casters and that was my next question regarding the plates, but you answered it for me. 1/2" thick.

thanks

ReeseAllen 12-29-2009 04:41 AM

3/8" would probably also work, or even 1/4", depending on the thread on your swivel casters. Generally, you want to tap into a plate that's at least as thick as the diameter of the thread on your caster.

BucksPA 01-04-2010 02:01 AM

score. over the holidays i did some more shopping on steel and ordered 40 feet of 1.5" x 1.5" x 11 gauge (.120) for $215 cut into 4 cross bars, 4 legs, and 10 kettle support bars at www.pasteel.com

dlloyd 01-04-2010 04:00 AM

Another site to check I remember from my blacksmithing days is http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm No affiliation, they just seem competitively priced and support hobbyists. Also the last question of their FAQ is apropos.

mordantly 01-04-2010 06:04 AM

stainless is a very sexy metal. only drawback is the additional requirements to weld it compared to mild steel. should last your kids lifetimes!

BucksPA 01-04-2010 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mordantly (Post 1782800)
stainless is a very sexy metal. only drawback is the additional requirements to weld it compared to mild steel. should last your kids lifetimes!

+1 That's exactly why i'm doing it. Plus, if you do the math, mild steel may only cost me $50-$75 for 40 feet, but powdercoating will be another $100 give or take, so for the extra $75, i'd rather have it look great cosmetically and also be able to withstand years of abuse (good abuse that is).


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