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Old 02-26-2012, 07:04 PM   #21
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The fire has to flow up and around the kettle bottom, if it is trapped it will choke the burners and cause a lot of problems. Half of the air for combustion goes inside the burner, the other half flows up from below to complete the burn. Block that air flow and soot and CO will result, not good. With keggles the skirt can be cut to vent the trapped gasses and let the burners burn correctly.
If the burners are set to the right height (adjustable to the flow/pressure of gas) so the flame is hitting the bottom of the kettle at it hottest point would that not account for what you speak of? Basically if the flame from burner to kettle was 6" there would only be 1.5" of possible air restriction at the stand frame before kettle bottom. This is working on the assumption the mounting of the burner is minimal (as free floating as possible) to keep airflow unrestricted.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #22
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You will need to raise the flat bottom kettles to vent the burners, many others have made the same discovery after trying to get the burners to work correctly. The 4 openings at the corners are just not enough, a 1/2" spacer improves things significantly but is to light to withstand repeated use without warping. The optimum spacing is 1/4"-1/2" gap between light blue center of the flame and kettle bottom, and air reduced to give yellow flame tips. Here is a shot of the automated system home made burner in operation https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.l...73202891787298, if the air is opened up to get a noisy blue flame you are just wasting time and gas, it should be quiet.

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Old 02-26-2012, 08:52 PM   #23
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You will need to raise the flat bottom kettles to vent the burners, many others have made the same discovery after trying to get the burners to work correctly. The 4 openings at the corners are just not enough, a 1/2" spacer improves things significantly but is to light to withstand repeated use without warping. The optimum spacing is 1/4"-1/2" gap between light blue center of the flame and kettle bottom, and air reduced to give yellow flame tips. Here is a shot of the automated system home made burner in operation https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.l...73202891787298, if the air is opened up to get a noisy blue flame you are just wasting time and gas, it should be quiet.
Perfect! Well that solves it right there. Thank you Kladue!

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Old 03-19-2012, 05:09 AM   #24
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OK...finally got some work done. Lots of "life" stuff getting in the way.

We bought some flat bar stock to create the burner mounts and the grill tops. I bought the metal in 20' sticks at a metal yard...so had to make lots of cuts...My poor cheap little chop saw is having a hell of a time.

The grill tops idea came from Kladue....which I admit that I copied. They consist of a 3/4" round stock for the center hub....then 1" x 1/4" thick flat bar stock for the star pattern.

The Ignition modules, spark cables, burners, and solenoid valves showed up...although it looks like I ordered the wrong pilot burners...I ordered one without the spark module attached....so still gotta figure that out and get the right one that can handle LP.

Once I get the grill tops all welded together, I will finish the burner mounts....then it's on to plumbing in the gas system.

grilltopparts.jpg   grilltop1.jpg   grilltop2.jpg   grilltop3.jpg  
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:18 AM   #25
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Looking good, I am working towards a similar sized system, but probably using a hybrid gas/electric setup for the hlt at least (propane costs add up quickly for me). How well does your stand design support the weight of the kettles? Have you filled them up to test yet? Any bowing in middle? Thanks for the help and documentation!

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Old 03-19-2012, 06:55 PM   #26
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Looking good, I am working towards a similar sized system, but probably using a hybrid gas/electric setup for the hlt at least (propane costs add up quickly for me). How well does your stand design support the weight of the kettles? Have you filled them up to test yet? Any bowing in middle? Thanks for the help and documentation!
Thanks....I have not tested it with the full weight yet. I will do that in the near future. It feels strong enough to park a truck on it. I don't foresee an issue...but if needed, I am prepared to add center legs.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:36 AM   #27
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I think you'd find more btu's by going low pressure and a jet burner. As for the valves you can use a Honeywell SV9501 with the integrated intermittent pilot and bypass the high/low piping complications.

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Old 03-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #28
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I think you'd find more btu's by going low pressure and a jet burner. As for the valves you can use a Honeywell SV9501 with the integrated intermittent pilot and bypass the high/low piping complications.
Unfortunately jet burners allow for very very little adjustment...almost either on or off.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:47 AM   #29
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I think you'd find more btu's by going low pressure and a jet burner. As for the valves you can use a Honeywell SV9501 with the integrated intermittent pilot and bypass the high/low piping complications.
I could not find a jet burner that could boast 210,000 btu's like the Hurricanes do. They may be out there, but I did not find one. We also like the flexibility that the hurricanes offer. I can crank up the pressure to full blast....or back it way down for a tiny gentle flame....and they are nice and quiet.... there are fewer leak points to worry about as well....I'm sure we could have made the Jet Burner's work..but after a lot of research, these seemed like a good fit for us......I guess we will really find out once we do our first test run..

The High/Low pressure piping was only complicated at first...it is actually pretty simple to do...which allows us the full flexibility of using the Hurricanes on high pressure safely, getting the higher btu's.....and having adjustability.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:21 PM   #30
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Very impressive.

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