The Great Bottle Opener Giveaway

Home Brew Forums > Sponsor Showcase > Sponsor Showcase > Interested in an Electric Kettle Set Up? Come on in....

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 08-17-2012, 01:33 PM   #61
kzimmer0817
Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kzimmer0817's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 266
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default Element enclosure for Spikebrewing e-kettle

Regarding the following 2 photos from Spikebrewing:

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpikeBrewing View Post
***BIG Update***
Camco 02963 5500W 240V water heater element installed


Heater element screwed in with gasket
Would it not be quite easy to install a Kal-like electrical box to this? Perhaps like that of the DIYers who use a single gang box instead of the double. Would placing the metal plate of the enclosure between the gasket and the element (or between gasket and kettle) provide for a water tight enclosure?

Another question: Since I am interested in the 10 gallon kettle: Ben mentioned that he was considering making the 10 gallon kettle the 110/120V and using 220V in the 15+ gallon kettles. From what I've read on these forums, I have been under the impression that it's difficult to bring 6-7 gallons (pre-boil volumes for 5g BIAB batches) to a boil using the elements available at 120V. True, some guys are doing this with 2 elements connected to separate circuits, but I only want the simplicity of a single element/circuit.

Thanks,
Keith
__________________

Last edited by kzimmer0817; 08-17-2012 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Added another question
kzimmer0817 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 01:54 PM   #62
tre9er
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 4,371
Liked 232 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 35

Default

You will have a hard time boiling a 5g. batch (~6.5g boil) with a single 120v element, yes. I can attest to this. A 2000w LWD element would be your best bet, but it still would take 26 minutes from 160* to get to a boil...guess that's not horrible, but that's also at 95% efficiency which means you better insulate the kettle well, too.

Now, as a HLT, no problem. You're probably crushing grain and doing other things while heating strike-water anyways.

__________________

_________________________________
Skal!
Den Faaborg Bryggeri

Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen View Post
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
tre9er is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 01:54 PM   #63
IrregularPulse
Hobby Collector
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
IrregularPulse's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 42,001
Liked 2747 Times on 2698 Posts
Likes Given: 111

Default

Couplers look good. Looking forward to a complete plug in play. I've got time to wait

__________________
Tap Room Hobo

I should have stuck to four fingers in Vegas. :o - marubozo
IrregularPulse is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-18-2012, 02:24 PM   #64
kzimmer0817
Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kzimmer0817's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 266
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default

I hate to keep beating the horse, but I'd like to restate the question that I asked three postings up. I'm hoping that knowledgeable folks who have built e-kettles will offer answers.

[Looking at the photo of the element installed into the fitting on the new Spikebrewing e-kettle] Would it not be quite easy to install a Kal-like electrical box to this? Perhaps like that of the DIYers who use a single gang box instead of the double. Would placing the metal plate of the enclosure between the gasket and the element (or between gasket and kettle) provide for a water tight enclosure?

I am about to either (1) build an e-kettle out of the keg I just cut or (2) purchase one of these from Spike Brewing. At first glance, and after reading thru Kal's description of his build, I don't see why it wouldn't work to place the metal cover plate between the element and the gasket in this above photo.

Impatiently, but respectfully,
Keith

__________________
kzimmer0817 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-18-2012, 05:30 PM   #65
DustBow
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cincy, OH
Posts: 655
Liked 21 Times on 19 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Would be better to place the element connections on the inside of the box and let the element face make the seal. Attach the back of the element to the box. That way if there is a leak it won't be inside the box with the connections

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sho...ml#post2506114

Hole needs to be 1" conduit punch or 1 & 3/8" wide I believe

Also, take a look at BoobyM's welding spuds and the silver soldering thread for the element connections to the kettle.
Good luck

__________________
"Brewers make wort, yeast make beer."

"Brewing beer is neither complicated nor expensive. It's the responsibility of the brewer to make it as complicated and expensive as their spouse & budget will allow."
DustBow is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #66
kzimmer0817
Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kzimmer0817's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 266
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DustBow View Post
Would be better to place the element connections on the inside of the box and let the element face make the seal. Attach the back of the element to the box. That way if there is a leak it won't be inside the box with the connections
1. Exactly how do you attach the back of the element to the box?

2. If the element is screwed into a fitting as Spikebrewing will be doing, I would think that the attachment of the box to the element must be movable. What position will the box be in when the element has been tightened.

3. Element position isn't as important if the element is slid thru an opening in the kettle with the o-ring and nut being on the inside of the kettle.

Thanks,
Keith
__________________
kzimmer0817 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-19-2012, 02:57 AM   #67
kzimmer0817
Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kzimmer0817's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 266
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default Attaching element to spikebrewing's kettle

I may have answered my own question. Scroll down to postings #6 and #7 of the following thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sho...you-do-212079/

If I'm looking at these correctly, this is exactly what I asked in my previous messages. The photo by hatfieldenator in message #6 of the above thread shows an element being screwed into a coupling just like what Spikebrewing will be doing. Same thing by trigger in #7 except that he used a single box.

Cut a hole in the metal box just large enough to slip over the element mount. pass the element thru the hole in the box, put the gasket onto the element, then screw the element into the threaded coupling.

I'd appreciate any comments,
Keith

__________________
kzimmer0817 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #68
BlackNotch
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 141
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Nice! Will there be an option on the coupling placement?

__________________

-Mike

BlackNotch is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-24-2012, 03:29 AM   #69
SpikeBrewing
Vendor
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
SpikeBrewing's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 742
Liked 41 Times on 38 Posts
Likes Given: 52

Default

Well guys it's not looking good for the welded electric coupler. After discussing it with a lawyer friend they advised against it because of the high risk. So it looks like the months of machining, our planning and your planning might be in vein. We would love to see this happen but UL ratings, insurance, etc make this project very unappealing. It only takes one person to get hurt and we're hurting.

Sorry guys....

__________________
SpikeBrewing is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-24-2012, 03:37 AM   #70
Bsquared
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Bsquared's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,807
Liked 55 Times on 51 Posts
Likes Given: 21

Default

What if I only want a 1"coupler welded on, I have a really big pump.

__________________
Bsquared is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
eBrewSupply - Electric Brewing Hardware Opening Soon hatrickwah Sponsor Showcase 188 12-02-2013 02:05 PM