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Old 03-14-2012, 10:48 PM   #11
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Thanks for the replies people! Just wanted to know if I'd made any errors. I used coopers pale malt extract and the crystal didn't have such a number on it. As I'm new to this I just asked the shop keeper for crystal malt and he gave me this. The late addition of the LME and use of DME points are really helpful.

RE using the books as stands, that was last semesters modules! Thanks for the concern though

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Old 03-15-2012, 02:46 AM   #12
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Joff, it's important to note that, you cannot simply take a kit and shift when you add your malt extract. Doing so changes the boil gravity of the wort which directly affects hop utilization. Lower gravity = more bitterness from the same amount of hops.

I strongly reccomend use of some brewing software (Beersmith 2 has a free 21 day trial and is cheap if you like it!) to help determine when and how much malt extract to add and how much hops / timing is needed to get the desired results.

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Old 03-15-2012, 03:12 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by AdamPag View Post
also when its in the FV it ALWAYS looks darker due to the high volume of liquid, when its in the glass it wont be nearly the same color. Also, many recommend adding most of your extract during the last 20 mins for color adjustment. I dont, I full boil extract, with great success, but to each their own, in any case, if its not going to judging... do you really care?
^This. I don't know what that is you're fementing in, but it looks like something between an Amber and a Pale to me.

What do you mean when you say "plumped for a light LME"?
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paparker21 View Post
Joff, it's important to note that, you cannot simply take a kit and shift when you add your malt extract. Doing so changes the boil gravity of the wort which directly affects hop utilization. Lower gravity = more bitterness from the same amount of hops.

I strongly reccomend use of some brewing software (Beersmith 2 has a free 21 day trial and is cheap if you like it!) to help determine when and how much malt extract to add and how much hops / timing is needed to get the desired results.
Is it the gravity that affects IBUs or the volume? I was under the impression that the volume played a much more important role than the gravity at which you input the hops. Some clarification for the noobs (like me) would help! Thank you!
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:29 AM   #15
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It's the gravity--- reducing volume increases gravity (because you still use the same amount of wort).

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Old 03-15-2012, 11:56 AM   #16
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When I say plumped for, I mean I chose, sorry about that, poor use of British slang! It's a brubox I'm fermenting in, its a clear soft plastic box, so the colour is representive of the actual wort.
And thanks paparker, I'll download that software before my next brew in a week or so!

Thanks again people

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Old 03-15-2012, 05:06 PM   #17
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LOL...thanks for the British slang lesson! So far all I know is bugger (which isn't so salacious here as it is there) bird, and bloke.

So would this be correct syntax?

That bloke plumped for a bird to bugger, but the bird told the bloke who plumped her to bugger off!

LOL..hope I didn't offend any of our British brethren with my crass language!

REgarding the beer, yeah, it'll probably be a bit darker then you aimed for, but it does always look darker when it's all together like that. GL...I'm sure it'll taste great!

and I like that fermentor, carboys are great, but when not in use I have them stacked precariously in odd nooks and crannys in my garage.

Edit:

Your first gravity sample in a clear tube held up to the light will give you a more true feel for it's color. I honestly (and there's absolutely nothing other then my anectodal experience to back this up) feel like ales tend to lighten up slightly as fermentation progresses.

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Old 03-15-2012, 05:19 PM   #18
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First of all,You can shift when how much extract is added. Why do you think the late extract addition works? And you won't automatically get a ton more bittering solely because of "shifting the extract addition". Bittering,flavor,& aroma stages still govern all that regardless of the volume. But,for instance,using 1.5-2lbs of plain DME in a 3 gallon boil for hop additions will even out when topped off to total recipe volume. The late extract method is designed more for the partial boil to get good hop utilization,but also get lighter color & cleaner flavors.
Adding the remaining DME & all the LME at flame out safely accomplishes this. Then topping off with water in the FV brings it all to the proper levels for a given brew.
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:19 PM   #19
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I don't think they lighten any, but as it clears it may appear to be lighter as more light is allowed to pass through

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Old 03-15-2012, 05:28 PM   #20
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I'm referring to the boil. LME darkens more readilly than DME. And that extract twang is associeated with that darkening. Even by the time the beer hits FG & settles out clear,the final product can be darker in the glass because of the caramelization of the extract. This can also have the effect of raising the FG.
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