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Old 06-28-2012, 01:51 AM   #1
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Default Wort Chilling

What is considered too long of a time to chill your wort to 70F?

I chilled it to 70F in about 30 minutes. My beer is not clear, but does taste good. It has also been in primary for 19 days, bottled today. It is an extract kit, pitched yeast US05 at 68F. I did about a 3 gallon boil and topped off with distilled water.

Any tips for next time to get clearer beer?

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Old 06-28-2012, 02:03 AM   #2
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Try using Irish moss (1 tsp) during the last 15 minutes of your boil

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Old 06-28-2012, 02:06 AM   #3
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Definitely use the Irish moss 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

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Old 06-28-2012, 02:59 AM   #4
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It's not strictly necessary to use a wort chiller, but the main reason you want it room temp ASAP, is that while it's cooling you risk infection from bacteria/yeast in the air. More than an hour is probably pushing it on the chance of infection risk.

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Old 06-28-2012, 03:06 AM   #5
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It depends on the type of haze you've got. On bottling day, it's probably still just yeast in suspension. Down the road, you should pay attention to how things change. Is it cloudy both when warm and cold, or just when cold? Does it gradually get better?

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Old 06-28-2012, 03:08 AM   #6
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a trick that has worked for me to clear up the batches that i have had with haze is simply to put them in the fridge for a few days to a week. the haze is occasionally caused by a protein, that will precipitate and settle out leaving clear beer. To avoid it in the future irish moss as stated above works really well to help. I have also noticed even clearer beer using whirlfloc tabs, which are an irish moss product. not sure what they have in them that makes them better, but i'm noticing better results. Chilling fast to get a better cold break helps, but isnt 100% necessary.

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Old 06-28-2012, 04:00 AM   #7
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I bought some whirlfloc and will use that next time. I wish I knew this before I started. Crossing my fingers and hoping it clears a bit while it conditions. Kind of bummed about it.

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Old 06-28-2012, 01:45 PM   #8
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You don't need Irish Moss, Whirlfloc, or other fining agents when brewing an Extract beer with no unconverted grains. Extract beers do not suffer the same issues in clarity as PM or AG beers. So you're actually wasting money on something you think is a necessity. The best thing to do is let time and gravity to its job. And to avoid stirring up the trub by racking as carefully as possible.

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Old 06-28-2012, 01:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews View Post
You don't need Irish Moss, Whirlfloc, or other fining agents when brewing an Extract beer with no unconverted grains. Extract beers do not suffer the same issues in clarity as PM or AG beers. So you're actually wasting money on something you think is a necessity. The best thing to do is let time and gravity to its job. And to avoid stirring up the trub by racking as carefully as possible.
There's still plenty of protein in extract. It's not as dramatic, but you can watch the stuff coagulate and drop out when you add whirlfloc. Clarity more an issue of aesthetics than taste, and likewise "needing" whirlfloc is a fairly subjective matter. But, saying that it doesn't do anything is incorrect.

Plus, c'mon...it's like 12 cents a batch
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:55 PM   #10
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I'm willing to bet any amount of money that I can brew extract beer after extract beer with no fining agents and you would never know the difference. You can do this too! Any haze issues you experience from extract beers is most likely from the hop oils, or improper racking... not protein haze.

It's just one of those minor things... like adding carapils to an extract beer when extract already contains carapils. ...Another useless step.

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