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Old 04-28-2014, 11:03 PM   #31
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For fly sparging, you definitely want to do a mash out. That means adding some near boiling water to your mashtun after the mash and before the sparge, to bring the entire grainbed up to 168 degrees. Then sparge with 168-170 degree water.
Thanks. I was thinking I probably should be.. approx how much boiling water would I need to bring up 22L of mash (at approx 151) to 168?
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:07 PM   #32
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I have began a mashout with batch sparging for two reasons. The first is in the pursuit of higher efficiency. The second is that being a stovetop brewer getting the wort to start boiling is a pain to say the least. Doing a mashout allows some water to get good and hot on the stove while the grain is mashing, increasing the wort temp that comes out of the tun. Hotter wort from tun = less time until boiling.

The first time I did this I ended up with a small problem. I was mashing "thin" 2.5 L/KG. Sorry for the metric. But "thin" is the important part. When I added the mashout water I had so much in the tun I barely got a sparge at all. In my situation a slightly thicker mash (2.0 L/KG) + mashout works best, then I still get a good sparge opportunity.
Metric suits me (everything is metric in NZ)
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:11 PM   #33
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Thanks. I was thinking I probably should be.. approx how much boiling water would I need to bring up 22L of mash (at approx 151) to 168?
http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

They've got other handy calculators including but not limited to: IBUs and efficiency.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:14 PM   #34
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Good luck. I think my favorite piece of equipment is my refractometer and my second favorite is my calibrated site glass, third is my digital thermometer. Right after that is software to record measurements and interpret what they mean on the fly (I like Beer Alchemy).

Knowing where you are is a big part of figuring out where you are going. With a preboil gravity and volume I can determine almost exactly what my OG and volume will be into the fermenter. If I need more sugar I sparge some more before starting the boil, if that means I get more volume than I expected to get the sugar I need, then I tack some time onto the boil.

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Old 04-28-2014, 11:18 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Zepth View Post
http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

They've got other handy calculators including but not limited to: IBUs and efficiency.
Perfect - should have known. Thanks
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:29 PM   #36
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So...pretty much as I stated originally. Except that I think it's important to raise the grain temperature to 170 instead of 168. I do 171 on the side of caution, without worrying about tannins.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

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Old 04-28-2014, 11:36 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
For fly sparging, you definitely want to do a mash out. That means adding some near boiling water to your mashtun after the mash and before the sparge, to bring the entire grainbed up to 168 degrees. Then sparge with 168-170 degree water.
So using the brewersfriend calculator it says I'd need 9-10L of boiling (to bring up 20L of 66deg mash with 6.8kg grain to 76deg (169F). And just to confirm I'm supposed to do that before I start lautering?
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:14 AM   #38
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also pH of your mash water. use the pH 5.2 to get the perfect mash water pH. maybe it's something as simple as that!!

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Old 04-29-2014, 12:14 AM   #39
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So using the brewersfriend calculator it says I'd need 9-10L of boiling (to bring up 20L of 66deg mash with 6.8kg grain to 76deg (169F). And just to confirm I'm supposed to do that before I start lautering?
Yes. You want to denature the enzymes, as it takes like an hour to sparge and you want to preserve your malt profile from the mash.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:27 AM   #40
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Yes. You want to denature the enzymes, as it takes like an hour to sparge and you want to preserve your malt profile from the mash.
Understood. Will report back after next brew. Thanks a lot!
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