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Old 02-23-2013, 12:49 AM   #21
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The kits from Brewer's Best (on-line) look very decent, and the instructions are clear. As long as the cans of LME are fresh (and that's the important question) you should be able to make a tasty brew. Pick an easy beginners/intermediate recipe of a beer you like. Stay away from lagers, Belgians, fruits, and other fermentation/temperature-critical recipes for now until you've brewed a few ales. Ales are generally easier, and more forgiving. The darker ones being more forgiving than lighter ones.

As Nanoman said, pitch enough (fresh) yeast. If the kit comes with yeast, make sure there is a useful date on it, or even better, replace with a sachet of Safale S-05 or S-04 depending on the beer you're brewing. You don't need to make a starter for dry yeast in medium gravity ales. That saves a step for now that you would want to visit later. Oh yes, starters can make all the difference, and are absolutely needed for all the liquid yeasts sold.

Have fun taking the class, and ask plenty of nuts and bolts questions.

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Old 02-23-2013, 01:02 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yewtah-brewha View Post
6 lbs light liquid malt extract, safe ale s05 yeast, and 1 oz cascade hops.

should cost 24.00...better and fresher than any kit ive bought,
I'd make that 6.6 lbs (or 7 lbs if sold in bulk) of light LME or Pilsner LME (the lightest in color).

How about adding some steeping grains?

And yes, always best to use fresh ingredients, and it will probably be as good as or better than any commercial kit out there.

Price depends on where you live though, but should not be more than $30.
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On tap: 2.3'd | Sketchy Bastard | ESB | Belgian Wit {1st place @ FSH Guild Wheat Beer Comp.} | Pocahontas Pumpkin Ale
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandLizard View Post
I'd make that 6.6 lbs (or 7 lbs if sold in bulk) of light LME or Pilsner LME (the lightest in color).

How about adding some steeping grains?

And yes, always best to use fresh ingredients, and it will probably be as good as or better than any commercial kit out there.

Price depends on where you live though, but should not be more than $30.
Sure why not. Add some steeping grains. the biggest mistake i made with my first was moving the primary around alot. I ws so excited. I would transport it up stair every few days to open it and smell it,,,, bad idea. leave it in a clean area and dont move it except to transfer from primary to bottling or secondary.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:06 AM   #24
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I also added (pitched)yeast to hot, get a wort cooler and pitch at 65- 70 degrees

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Old 02-25-2013, 01:11 AM   #25
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Brewed my brewers best IPA…when should I begin seeing airlock activity?

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Old 02-25-2013, 12:21 PM   #26
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The Scotch Ale kit from Brewers Best was my first batch in Nov' 12 and it was good. Lacked a little body maybe, but was good. My last kit I brewed was the cream ale around the end of Dec. beginning of Jan. It is bottled now and I am not enjoying it. It uses 2lbs of corn sugar to boost the ABV and gives it a flavor that I really don't like, Budweiserish kind of. I have since done 4 all grain batches and haven't tried any of them yet. 3 are in fermenters still and one has only been bottled a week. I am really looking forward to cracking open a bottle of my Guinness Foreign Extra clone that is in the carboy still for St. Patty's. 1.070 OG. Haven't measured FG yet. It looks delicious and the airlock smells wonderful.
You should see airlock activity within 24-72 hours. If you don't see bubbles your bucket lid could be leaking so don't sweat it. If you got the brewers best starter kit and are fermenting in a bucket you can shine a flashlight through the back side and see the krausen forming.
I am 11 batches in since Nov '12, welcome to the addiction.

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Old 02-25-2013, 12:45 PM   #27
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Air lock activity can take up to 3 days, I have seen up to 5 days when the days have been really cold RDWHAHB

My first "kit" beer was an IPA, unfortunately my palate was not prepared for an IPA at the time lol Me favorite "kit" beer was brewers best Red Ale.

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:28 PM   #28
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Airlock activity started around 18hrs after capped. And it's been constant for the past two days. Primary buckets is looking great and is sitting in a cool 70-71 deg closet. Looking forward to tasting this weekend when I transfer to carboy.

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:35 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Airlock activity started around 18hrs after capped. And it's been constant for the past two days. Primary buckets is looking great and is sitting in a cool 70-71 deg closet. Looking forward to tasting this weekend when I transfer to carboy.
I would get some small ice packs, put them next to the fermenter, then wrap a towel around it all. (easiest and quickest think I can think of) 70 - 71 ambient temp means a fermentation in the mid 70s. That's going to be a hair hot and could lead to some off flavors. You want to do what you can to keep it fermenting under 70.

Best solutions is usually a swamp cooler. Larger vessel, with cool water, that you put the fermenter in, then add a couple of ice packs or a 20 oz bottle of water frozen, to keep your temps lower.

This was the mistake I made on my first beer. It wasn't undrinkable, but certainly left some off flaovors in there fermenting that warm.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:35 PM   #30
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First ever batch brewed is an IPA. I racked it on day 6 to my carboy and plan letting it sit in there for 2 weeks. The smell is great and the color is a bit darker than I expected, but it seems so far so good. Chomping at the bit I had to get a small taste…it's a little more bitter than SweetWater IPA. So my question is what your opinion on how long for the IPA to stay in the carboy?

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