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03-09-2010, 11:40 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 343
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What is the cost of a DIY Mash Tun?
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Not including the cost of the cooler.
I'd like to know what fittings I need for the valve, if I can pick them up at any hardware store and what size pvc pipe is typically used? Also what type/size lines are used to go from the mash tun to the kettle?
Anything else that may help me get started.
Thanks!
__________________
Primary 1: Winter Tropics Pale Ale
Primary 2: Appy IPA
Primary 3: Truly Triple Hopped IPA
Secondary 1: Air
Secondary 2: Air
Bottled: Edworts IPA, Nierra Sevada, Stork Blue Celebration Ale
On Deck: Maroon Effect Amber, Blonde, IPA, APA
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03-09-2010, 11:47 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 683
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check out bargainfittings.com for cooler bulkheads and ball valve kits.
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03-09-2010, 11:59 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 4,562
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I tried to source everything locally, and quickly found out that Bargain Fittings is much cheaper. For $20, you can have a bulkhead with brass ball valve and hose barb. For another $14, you can buy the stainless mesh braid too. I did a CPVC manifold. A 12' lenght of CPVC is around $3-4 if I remember. Plus all of the fittings and connectors. My manifold probably cost $8.
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03-09-2010, 12:04 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 196
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Check out http://www.weldlessfittings.com/ too.
You can get most of what you need (probably not stainless, though) at various local hardware stores, but you have to spend time wandering around the store to different departments to make sure everything fits. Buy online and save yourself some hassle. Both weldless and bargain take all the guess work out, and their prices and service are great.
Check out the stainless braided hose for a strainer. I know that weldlessfittings sells them. That's will eliminate your need to fashion a PVC strainer.
You really don't need any hoses for your MLT, as long as you can lift it higher than your BK, and let gravity do the work for you. You will need a hose barb fitting on the ball valve however, even if you're not going to use a hose. The ball valve when opened only part way sprays all over the place. The hose barb eliminates that spraying, and makes the wort drain in a controlled manner.
Good Luck!
Jay
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03-09-2010, 12:09 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 343
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Do the bulkhead and ball valve fittings go in cooler smoothly and snug without any caulk or gasket?
__________________
Primary 1: Winter Tropics Pale Ale
Primary 2: Appy IPA
Primary 3: Truly Triple Hopped IPA
Secondary 1: Air
Secondary 2: Air
Bottled: Edworts IPA, Nierra Sevada, Stork Blue Celebration Ale
On Deck: Maroon Effect Amber, Blonde, IPA, APA
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03-09-2010, 01:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 19,424
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I don't particularly like weldless cooler bulkheads that pull the two walls together to get the seal. Over time the inner wall gets dimpled. I much prefer creating the seal only on the inner wall.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Personal Website, All Grain Primer, Keg Polishing, etc... | Youtube Channel
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03-09-2010, 01:22 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 844
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I found this and probably going to give it a whirl:
http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm
Great all grain "how to" on that site as well.
__________________
Single Vessel BIAB is all I need....Until we figure out the no vessel technique.
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03-09-2010, 01:24 PM
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#8
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Hobby Collector
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 34,517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner65
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thats about the easiest method if you're happy with. ( No reason not to be )
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Tap Room Hobo
I should have stuck to four fingers in Vegas. :o - marubozo
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03-09-2010, 01:36 PM
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#9
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Huge Raging Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Providence Village, Texas
Posts: 1,473
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The cost for all the valves, nipples  , and pieces ran me around $27. Then the cooler was another $40.
__________________
Diverse Haus Brewery
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03-09-2010, 01:55 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Harrisburg
Posts: 2,176
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I got a stainless bulkhead from bargainfittings, and then bought a lenth of CPVC for like $3 or so. Then all the joints were about about $8-10 not sure. You can go copper but it will be considerably more $$ however copper does have a heavy metal antibacterial property much like silver. Which if you go the copper route use silver solder.
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Going through life is hard.
Going through life stupid is harder.
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