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01-03-2013, 01:21 AM
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#11
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The Wolf
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 101
Liked 17 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 25
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I think your now officially dangerous and believe your extract lesson is over, time to make a mash tun.
__________________
"How about you, Lash LaRue? You think you can keep your spurs from jinglin' and janglin'?" Winston Wolf
Primary: Bell's Two Hearted Ale Clone
Secondary: Cottage House Saison
Bottled: Robust Porter
On deck: ?
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01-03-2013, 10:22 AM
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#12
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Brewin&BBQin
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Sheffield, Ohio
Posts: 19,386
Liked 798 Times on 725 Posts Likes Given: 230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterfool101
Of course, you're correct for the most part. It's HIGHLY UNLIKELY autolysis will occur as early as 3 weeks . . . or even 3 months, for the most part. And yes, as many brewers here have noted, there is more risk of off flavors from infection or oxidation from transferring to secondary than leaving on trub for 4-6 weeks.
This doesn't mean yeast doesn't go through autolysis. Just that it's not likely to occur as soon now as in the past.
It's interesting to note that what we view as bad in beer is viewed as necessary in champagne . . . wines can't be granted the appellation unless they sit on their autolysing lees for a minimum of 15 months (non vintage - vintage champagnes must sit 3 years).
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Some on here have left beer on the yeast cake for 5-6 months with no autolysis. I've gone 5 weeks in primary on my Burton ale without it. It's pretty rare to non-existent nowadays.
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Everything works if ya let it-Roady(meatloaf)
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01-03-2013, 10:52 AM
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#13
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 81
Liked 8 Times on 6 Posts Likes Given: 74
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Sorta off your topic but based on your pics did you boil with the steeping grains still in your wort? I'm a beginner but I thought most recipes called for removing the steeping grains before bringing up to boil.
Cheers.
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01-03-2013, 02:41 PM
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#14
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 932
Liked 109 Times on 91 Posts Likes Given: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n_c_n
Sorta off your topic but based on your pics did you boil with the steeping grains still in your wort? I'm a beginner but I thought most recipes called for removing the steeping grains before bringing up to boil.
Cheers.
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I believe those were the hops.
__________________
On Deck: Black Lager (im stalling on this one for some reason), Octoberfest/Marzen
Fermenting:Apfelwein, Pale Ale
Kegged: Breakfast Stout, Cream Ale, Apfelwein, ESB
Bottled: American Amber/Red Ale
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01-03-2013, 02:58 PM
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#15
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 165
Liked 23 Times on 18 Posts Likes Given: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrunkleJon
I believe those were the hops.
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Yep. Hop pellets in bags. Looks exactly the same as the grain bag.
Steeping grains came out at 169.
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01-03-2013, 03:00 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Hamilton,, ON
Posts: 520
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts Likes Given: 18
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Brother, you've got a much better setup than I have. Kudos to you.
As many other people here have said, the general cutoff is about 7%.
I have had beers sitting sur lees for up to 6 months. Given the temperature in my basement, I'd probably should have a few more lagers going, but $$$ is not in good supply right now.
Keep up the good work. Try to save some of that Irish Red for February 
__________________
If you are not growing your own 6th generation barley and hops, you're not *really* homebrewing.
/Sarcasm
Fermenting: Real Ale, Extract Lager (with WLP830), India Pale Ale
Conditioning: Nothing
Drinking: Pale Ale from the keg
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01-03-2013, 03:01 PM
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#17
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New Castle, CO
Posts: 85
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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Going to Vail's Big Beers, Belgians, and Barleywines next weekend and a big beer is anything over 7% according to them.
According to Jamil there isn't really ever a need for a secondary unless you are doing a beer such as a barleywine or something that is going to be aged for a long time (due to off flavors from the yeast).
As for the steeping grains, it does look like the OP is steeping in the boil or if nothing else steeping in the full amount of water. Correct me if I am wrong but don't you need a smaller ratio of water to grains for steeping i.e. <1G of water to 1# of grain (Palmer) to reduce tannins and help with flavor?
Anyways congrats on your first brew day and it looks like it was a success.
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01-03-2013, 03:57 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 161
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts Likes Given: 5
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I hope that is not the case. I just did a similar beer as the OP and my instructions from the LBS said to put grains in cold water using the full volume. Heat to 155 and steep for 30min.
__________________
Primary: Session SNPA Clone (5/4) and JOAM (3/22)
Bottled: Hoppy German Wheat
Drinking: Craft Beer
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01-03-2013, 04:10 PM
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#19
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 165
Liked 23 Times on 18 Posts Likes Given: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yourrealdad
As for the steeping grains, it does look like the OP is steeping in the boil or if nothing else steeping in the full amount of water. Correct me if I am wrong but don't you need a smaller ratio of water to grains for steeping i.e. <1G of water to 1# of grain (Palmer) to reduce tannins and help with flavor?
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Steeping in 6 gallons, out at 169. No squeezing.
Not sure how full volume steep could be bad, but interested to learn if true.
The hops are in for the boil. 1 bag at 60 min, another at 1 min.
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01-03-2013, 06:34 PM
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#20
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 803
Liked 55 Times on 46 Posts Likes Given: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr
The autolysis boogieman is dead & gone. that was from the days of yeasts that weren't as good as now. Hell,even then the brewer's yeast I used to make sparkling wines were pretty good if treated properly.
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This, my cider sat on Montrachet wine yeast for 5 months in the primary, never touched, never moved until kegging...and its amazing.
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