 |
03-08-2007, 01:45 PM
|
#1
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 28
|
weldless valve
|
|
I am currently trying to convert an empty keg into a keggle. I see the weldless valves that are sold at places like northern brewery. My question is will the o-rings that are used to seal it hold up to the very high temperatures at the bottom of the keg? It seems like the rubber seal would melt.
|
|
|
03-08-2007, 01:49 PM
|
#2
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Williamsburg, Va
Posts: 322
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
|
The seals will work fine. The material they are made from can handle the high temperatures expected during the boil. I've been using one for about 2 years now without any trouble whatsoever.
|
|
|
03-08-2007, 01:52 PM
|
#3
|
|
10th-Level Beer Nerd
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Adams, MA
Posts: 19,850
Liked 239 Times on 190 Posts Likes Given: 53
|
Yeah, no problems here. Just make sure to de-burr your hole (oo - that sounds dirty) thoroughyl so that you don't damage the rings.
__________________
Come join Yankee Ingenuity!
"I'm kind of toasted. But I looked at my watch and it's only 6:30 so I can't stop drinking yet." - Yooper's Bob
"Brown eye finally recovered after the abuse it endured in Ptown last weekend, but it took almost a full week." - Paulie
"no, he just doesn't speak 'stupid'. i, however, am fluent...." - motobrewer
|
|
|
03-08-2007, 02:13 PM
|
#4
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Poo-Poo Land
Posts: 6,811
Liked 24 Times on 16 Posts
|
The rings are made to withstand up to 450º. Order some extras from Grainger, just in case. Also, you need to get some thread tape to prevent leaks through the threads.
|
|
|
03-08-2007, 02:18 PM
|
#5
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Williamsburg, Va
Posts: 322
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Cheesefood
The rings are made to withstand up to 450º. Order some extras from Grainger, just in case. Also, you need to get some thread tape to prevent leaks through the threads.
|
Definitely! Teflon tape is the way to go. I was amazed at how much this makes a difference. I had a very very slow leak that wouldn't go away. Finally undid the assembly and added teflon tape....leak was gone. Great tip!
|
|
|
03-08-2007, 02:22 PM
|
#6
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Poo-Poo Land
Posts: 6,811
Liked 24 Times on 16 Posts
|
One more piece of advice...
You want everything TIGHT as possible, but be careful that you don't shred the rings when tightening. Put most of it together outside of the kettle, then hand-tighten the pieces inside. Pay attention to the large nut. It has a groove on one side. That's the side you want touching the washer. It'll squish it flat for a better seal.
After it's assembled, fill it with enough warm water to cover the hole and let it sit for about 10 minutes to check for leaks.
|
|
|
03-11-2007, 04:09 AM
|
#7
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 637
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts Likes Given: 4
|
I converted a keg to my kettle and used one of the Weld B Gone valves. I started a few threads to determine if the o-Ring went inside the keg infront of the large washer or outside the keg behind the small washer. I got mixed answers so I used it inside behind the large washer inside the kettle. I'm still not sure if this was right but it did not leak. The threaded nipple that came with the kit seemed just a little too short because it does not screw into the valve very far, or if you do screw it into the valve very far it does not leave enough room to start the threaded coupling on the inside of the keg. I used allot of thread tape and tightend it pretty tight with a wrench and had no leaks on a 7gallon 90 minute boil. I did notice that when I took it apart the o-ring was a little flatter so I am sure it will need to be replaced after a few boils so I would keep a few extra on hand.
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
|
|