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Old 04-23-2013, 12:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by BansheeRider View Post
It's been a week or so since I kegged and after about 5 pints my beer is still cloudy from chill haze. Maybe I should have borrowed my friends filter system. I get good hot breaks in my boil, I cool the wort in under 30 min with an ice bath and get a good cold break. I'm not sure why my beer has chill haze while using whirlfloc and using good wort chilling methods.
What kinda boil set up do u have? Diptube with ur kettle? If that the case, angle the diptube to the side and leave most of the trub and cold break in the kettle. Might cost ya anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 gallon but that might help with the chill haze.


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Old 04-23-2013, 01:07 PM   #22
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What kinda boil set up do u have? Diptube with ur kettle? If that the case, angle the diptube to the side and leave most of the trub and cold break in the kettle. Might cost ya anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 gallon but that might help with the chill haze.
I don't understand that. How can putting cold break in the fermenter create more chill haze? It's coagulated proteins that will fall to the bottom.

Chill haze isn't caused by trub or by leaving break material in the fermenter. It's from the particles still suspended. So, putting a ton of trub in the fermenter, while perhaps unslightly, won't cause chill haze or other clarity issues. It's common to siphon off of the break material, of course, but leaving it in there won't make it resuspend.

Chilling the beer for a couple of weeks will fix chill haze, but it's easier for me to just prevent it in the first place. I like this article from BYO that explains chill haze well: http://byo.com/american-pale-ale/item/486-conquer-chill-haze


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Old 04-23-2013, 01:51 PM   #23
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I used my fivestar super moss for the first time on my NZ IPA PM last Sunday. I dissolved it in 4 oz of cool spring water,rather than cooled wort as recommended though. Added in the last 10 minutes of the boil,it did something I've never seen before. It made bubbles of wort "jump" out of the surface of the rolling boil waves. Weird.
But it did settle a lot of stuff out during the chill, The grains of protiens,etc weren't very big,but there was a substancial amount of it. I stired during the ice bath,but let it settle before straining into the FV. I strained out over 1C of gunk easily,with more left in the bottom of the BK/MT.It went into the fermenter a lot clearer than usual. So I have high hopes that this "settles" my chil haze problems from the fine crush on the grains for PB/PM BIAB I do.
Maybe this happens to me because I dont let the chilled wort settle and I pour everything in the fermenter. I do use a strainer bag which catches all the hops, but what about proteins? These make it through the strainer correct? Maybe I should let the kettle settle for 10 min after being chilled and then pour slowly through the strainer into the fermenter.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Pratzie View Post
What kinda boil set up do u have? Diptube with ur kettle? If that the case, angle the diptube to the side and leave most of the trub and cold break in the kettle. Might cost ya anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 gallon but that might help with the chill haze.
No I don't have a dip tube on my BK and I don't siphon my beer into the fermenter because pouring helps in aerating.

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I don't understand that. How can putting cold break in the fermenter create more chill haze? It's coagulated proteins that will fall to the bottom.

Chill haze isn't caused by trub or by leaving break material in the fermenter. It's from the particles still suspended. So, putting a ton of trub in the fermenter, while perhaps unslightly, won't cause chill haze or other clarity issues. It's common to siphon off of the break material, of course, but leaving it in there won't make it resuspend.

Chilling the beer for a couple of weeks will fix chill haze, but it's easier for me to just prevent it in the first place. I like this article from BYO that explains chill haze well: http://byo.com/american-pale-ale/item/486-conquer-chill-haze
Like you said, I thought whirlfloc makes any suspended material drop, whether it's in the BK or the fermenter. What about filtering the beer between kegs with a 1-5 micron filter?
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:00 PM   #25
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Like you said, I thought whirlfloc makes any suspended material drop, whether it's in the BK or the fermenter. What about filtering the beer between kegs with a 1-5 micron filter?
That would work- but you'd have to get the beer cold first so chill haze develops, and then filtering would remove it. I'm not sure of the size filter you'd need as I don't filter, though!
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:30 PM   #26
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Maybe this happens to me because I dont let the chilled wort settle and I pour everything in the fermenter. I do use a strainer bag which catches all the hops, but what about proteins? These make it through the strainer correct? Maybe I should let the kettle settle for 10 min after being chilled and then pour slowly through the strainer into the fermenter.
No,the coagulated protiens should get clumped up & in the strainer. Mine did. Along with trub,grainy floury stuff & other gunk. I'm sure more will settle out in the fermenter from the really cold top off water.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:28 PM   #27
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That would work- but you'd have to get the beer cold first so chill haze develops, and then filtering would remove it. I'm not sure of the size filter you'd need as I don't filter, though!
what's your technique for chilling and transfering to primary without filtering? very interested as I'd rather not filter
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:11 PM   #28
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what's your technique for chilling and transfering to primary without filtering? very interested as I'd rather not filter
The method would be exactly as you read it. Do not filter at all. Transfer from BK to primary and not care a bit about what gunk and particles get in.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:48 PM   #29
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You can,but I prefer to get out as much gunk as possible myself. My dual layer fine mesh strainer really comes in handy. Less trub,more beer for me!

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Old 04-23-2013, 09:07 PM   #30
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what's your technique for chilling and transfering to primary without filtering? very interested as I'd rather not filter
I have a pump, and leaf hops will clog that up. If I'm using whole (leaf) hops, I'll either bag those loosely, or use a "bazooka" screen for them.

Otherwise, I chill the wort, and then just send it to the fermenter on the last pass through the chiller. Because I have a CFC, all of the cold break goes into the fermenter. I don't worry about pellet hops debris at all, but if I use more than 5-6 ounces or so, sometimes I'll bag them just so I don't clog up my pump.


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