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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Is using a paint strainer bag better than whirlpooling?
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:53 PM   #1
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Default Is using a paint strainer bag better than whirlpooling?

I have used the paint strainer bag method for all my batches and am thinking of trying the whirlpool method and siphoning after chilling the wort with my IC. Is this method better as far as keeping the cold and hot break out of the fermenter? I wasn't sure if the strainer bags were fine enough to collect the cold and hot break material. If they are then all the mateial is probably going through the bag when i squeez it (the bag always gets clogged with hop material). I want to use what ever method is better for having clear beer, no chill haze. Oh and I do use whirlfloc in all my boils. Thanks!

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Old 05-29-2013, 02:54 AM   #2
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Any suggestions/advice??

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Old 05-29-2013, 12:17 PM   #3
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If you whirlpool you will leave the trub in the pot along with some wort. That wort is potential beer. Would you throw out a couple bottles of beer on purpose? Not me! I don't even filter it, just dump it all into the fermenter. When the ferment is over the yeast will have used any of that break material they want and the rest will settle to the bottom of the fermenter and get covered by the settling yeast. That gets left in the fermenter when I bottle.

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Old 05-29-2013, 12:35 PM   #4
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Any suggestions/advice??
I'm not sure your question makes much sense here. Are you asking what is a better way to remove break proteins from the wort, a whirlpool or pouring through a paint strainer? Assuming a good hot break, followed by a fast chill (cold break), your break proteins should settle to the bottom of the kettle. Whirlpooling (if sustained) will force those proteins into the center of the kettle in a cone, allowing only clear wort through the spigot. If you can't sustain a whirlpool while the kettle empties, simply allowing the break to settle and racking from above it will do the same. I'd hesitate to say that a paint strainer would remove much of the break. IME, it'll catch the hops sludge and let most of the break material through into the fermenter.

Or, as the poster above mentioned, assuming a good hot and cold break, any break material should settle out in the fermenter (trub) and be compacted beneath the yeast cake. Break material in the fermenter shouldn't keep you from having clear beer. If your beer's cloudy, hazy (proteins), try fining the kettle with whirlfloc and make sure you get good breaks during the boil and chill.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:43 PM   #5
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Additionally to kill off chill haze, lagering or a prolonged time in the fridge will help clear.

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Old 05-29-2013, 12:49 PM   #6
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I do PB/PM BIAB,& still get the floury stuff & some hop gunk at the bottom of the kettle. but I pour the chilled wort through a dual layer fine mesh strainer to get out that floury stuff from the bottom of the kettle. Makes for a bit less trub at bottling day.
But I am getting less of the floury stuff,about 50% less since I got my Barley Crusher grain mill. A more even crush helps a lot.

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Old 05-29-2013, 12:53 PM   #7
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I do PB/PM BIAB,& still get the floury stuff & some hop gunk at the bottom of the kettle. but I pour the chilled wort through a dual layer fine mesh strainer to get out that floury stuff from the bottom of the kettle. Makes for a bit less trub at bottling day.
But I am getting less of the floury stuff,about 50% less since I got my Barley Crusher grain mill. A more even crush helps a lot.
Not with break material. That stuff will (and should) form in the kettle. Flour is another story, you wanna limit that period. Break is protein that forms when sweet wort is boiled (and chilled), and can't be avoided by the width of the crush.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:57 PM   #8
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Not with break material. That stuff will (and should) form in the kettle. Flour is another story, you wanna limit that period. Break is protein that forms when sweet wort is boiled (and chilled), and can't be avoided by the width of the crush.
Yeah,I'm aware of that. I was refering to the fine floury stuff I got in excess before I got a proper grain mill & used a mini food processor. Less floury fine stuff from crush getting into the BK. So less gunk overall. Looks like more break material & less grain sludge in the strainer if that makes any sense...
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I'm not sure your question makes much sense here. Are you asking what is a better way to remove break proteins from the wort, a whirlpool or pouring through a paint strainer?
For somebody who doesn't understand the question you did a pretty good job summarizing lol.....yes that is what I asked and I do use whirlfloc. Chill haze can be prevented by removing the cold break material from the beer. I was wondering what the best method was to remove that material, straining or whirlpooling then siphoning.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
I do PB/PM BIAB,& still get the floury stuff & some hop gunk at the bottom of the kettle. but I pour the chilled wort through a dual layer fine mesh strainer to get out that floury stuff from the bottom of the kettle. Makes for a bit less trub at bottling day.
But I am getting less of the floury stuff,about 50% less since I got my Barley Crusher grain mill. A more even crush helps a lot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
Yeah,I'm aware of that. I was refering to the fine floury stuff I got in excess before I got a proper grain mill & used a mini food processor. Less floury fine stuff from crush getting into the BK. So less gunk overall. Looks like more break material & less grain sludge in the strainer if that makes any sense...
This is irrelevant in my case because I use extract in my recipes. However I will keep this in mind if and when I move to AG or PM.
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