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Old 08-12-2010, 09:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by s2cmpugh View Post
So it sounds like I need a blowoff tube brewing the hefe. I'm assuming the guys at the LHBS will be able to rig one up for me?

Everything else I think I understand, but this secondary fermenter is a bit confusing. What's the idea behind it? It seems as though you do this:

1. Use the fermenting bucket for a few weeks
2. Transfer to the secondary fermenter (carboy) for how long? Does this reduce the yeast content after transfer?
3. Then transfer to the bottling bucket and begin to bottle?
4. Let beer sit in bottles for a week or so before chilling and consuming?
5. Should I be concerned about the level of carbonation?

That seems like a lot of transferring and opens up to a chance of spilling, bacteria, or in my case, making a mistake.

Or I could be WAY WAY over thinking it....

Thanks,
Cris P.
Typically, the secondary fermenter is used to age the beer for longer periods of time and to make the beer clearer when finished. There are also uses for it when brewing with fruits and other flavorings as well but that's for later Your beer doesn't need the secondary. Have fun!


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Old 08-13-2010, 03:54 PM   #22
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I have another question. Can I boil 3 gallons of water, put that into my fermenter, then boil another 2 gallons while adding my extract, then pout that into fermenter and mix well? It would save me some space and hassle from finding a large big @ss pot.

If I don't do a secondary...how will I make sure none of the yeast that has settled at the bottom comes out when I transfer into a bottle bucket OR bottle straight from the fermenter?

Thanks!



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Old 08-13-2010, 04:00 PM   #23
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I have another question. Can I boil 3 gallons of water, put that into my fermenter, then boil another 2 gallons while adding my extract, then pout that into fermenter and mix well? It would save me some space and hassle from finding a large big @ss pot.

If I don't do a secondary...how will I make sure none of the yeast that has settled at the bottom comes out when I transfer into a bottle bucket OR bottle straight from the fermenter?

Thanks!
Yes, you can use multiple pots to boil water. Just remember to cool it before you put it in the fermenter!

The racking cane has a "button" on the bottom of it that keeps it out of the trub on the bottom. In other words, it sits just above the yeast to siphon the beer. A little bit of yeast getting in won't hurt it anyway, you just don't want big globs of it getting in your bottles.
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by s2cmpugh View Post
I have another question. Can I boil 3 gallons of water, put that into my fermenter, then boil another 2 gallons while adding my extract, then pout that into fermenter and mix well? It would save me some space and hassle from finding a large big @ss pot.

If I don't do a secondary...how will I make sure none of the yeast that has settled at the bottom comes out when I transfer into a bottle bucket OR bottle straight from the fermenter?

Thanks!
Don't bottle straight from the fermenter. Transfer with the racking cane (or auto-siphon) to bottling bucket with priming sugar added to the bottling bucket. Mix well, then bottle from the bottling bucket. You leave behind most of the yeast sediment when you transfer from the fermenter to the bottling bucket.
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:58 PM   #25
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So could I boil 2 gallons that has my wort, then add 3 gallons of cold water to bring the temp down faster?

Why can't I cool inside the fermenter before adding yeast?

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Old 08-13-2010, 05:07 PM   #26
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You can put boiled & cooled water in your fermenter, then add your wort to that and just make sure you top off to your final volume. I would however cool that 2 gallons down as much as you can in a water/ice bath.

You can cool in your fermenter but it won't transfer the heat/cool nearly as well as a metal pot. What do you have for a primary fermenter? If it's a carboy or better bottle I don't recommend pouring a hot liquid in there because it can melt/crack. If it's the standard Ale Pale it'll be fine.

Edit: That kit has an Ale Pail primary fermenter, it'll take the heat just fine. If you have a freezer you could also freeze the boiled & cooled water in ziplock bags, drop that in to the fermenter and pour your wort on top of that. It should bring your temp down pretty fast that way.

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

Last edited by wyzazz; 08-13-2010 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:26 PM   #27
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I like that ice idea! Do I need to santize the inside of an unused plastic bag or just pour in my boiled water...freeze...then dump into fermenter?

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Old 08-13-2010, 05:59 PM   #28
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I would sanitize the bag, then dump in the cooled water, freeze and drop it in to the bottom of the fermenter, then pour my wort on top of that.

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:05 PM   #29
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Sounds good. I'll use the no rinse and let it air dry while my water is boiling, then freeze.

Could I just freeze a couple gallons of spring water, unsealed from the store?

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Old 08-13-2010, 06:09 PM   #30
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If you use StarSan or Iodophor you don't need or even want to let anything air dry. When it's wet it's sanitary, when it dries there is a chance of contamination. The residue of sanitizer isn't enough to create an off-flavor in the beer.

You can use the spring water, but you have to boil it first to sanitize it.



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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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