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Old 12-24-2011, 03:36 AM   #11
sheeshomatic
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Originally Posted by inkman15 View Post
You can definitely mash out once and be fine. That's the correct way, really. I took this process from the Bee Cave Haus Brew recipe on here. He, for some reason, adds a small amount of sparge water before the full sparge. I don't think I'll do this next time around. Thanks for your thoughts.
He's doing that so you have 'equal runnings' when you sparge. The original recipe calls for 2.75 gallons of strike water. Something like a gallon of that will be absorbed by the grain. The extra water is added before first runnings, which will give you ~3 gallons of first run wort. You're then adding another ~3 gallons of sparge water. Equal runnings tends to maximize sugar solubility with the least amount of water.
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Old 12-24-2011, 03:41 AM   #12
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Ah, OK. Equal runnings is not something I have run across before. Is it pretty standard AG practice? Or one of those "personal preference" things that does little to affect the final process?

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Old 12-24-2011, 03:52 AM   #13
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Ah, OK. Equal runnings is not something I have run across before. Is it pretty standard AG practice? Or one of those "personal preference" things that does little to affect the final process?
It's actually fairly well accepted as the best way to do it. It will guarantee you get the most sugar out of the grain with your intended water bill without worrying about pushing PH up and extracting tannins. I could argue that if I mashed really thick, then added a LOT of sparge water, that I could get a better rinse of the grain, because that water would be hotter and therefore it would be more able to dissolve sugars. I'd be right. BUT, I'd be lowering the grain's ability to buffer the solution and I'd worry about astringency from tannins. Soooo, half and half give or minus a gallon is the way to go. Still, it's much more important that you be consistent than worry about this crap.
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Old 12-24-2011, 01:26 PM   #14
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I'll just nit pick a bit if you'd like:

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Originally Posted by inkman15 View Post
• Added grains to mash tun
• Heated 3 gallons strike water to 163 and added to mash tun (NOTE: if were to use 1.25/qt per gallon guideline, I would have added 2.75 gallons. I rounded up because I was lazy, but figured it wouldn’t impact too much because is still in general guideline range) 163F seems pretty low unless you're mashing in the vessel that you're heating in.
• Mash for 1 hour
• Heated 1 gallon in small pot to 177
• Allowed some wort to flow through the valve into a small pot. Added it back on top of mash. Did this twice. (Mentioned in Palmer’s book.)
• Added 177 degree water to mash tun and allowed to sit for 5 minutes It appears this 177F addition is meant to be a mash out/equal runnings volume addition. The problem I see is that this would be added BEFORE the first vorlauf. It's supposed to be stirred in really well first. Also, 177F is nowhere near hot enough to get the grainbed up to 170F which is generally accepted as where "mash out" is optimized.
• Emptied into 8 gallon brew kettle
• At the same time as emptying, heated up additional 3.5 gallons in small pot to 180 for full strike. (full strike? I don't think I've heard of this terminology) Added to mash tun and allowed to sit for 10 minutes Be a little more specific here. How was it added? It should be stirred in really well for like 3 minutes of stirring. Then vorlauf and drain.
• Sparged to bring kettle volume to 6.5 gallons (though it seemed high in the kettle)
• Began boil and added hops at designated intervals
• Following boil, placed in ice bath (62 lbs of ice). Took approximately 30 min to cool
• Original Gravity: 1.044 – slightly off from target; may be that I did not drain enough from the mash tun. When I dumped the grains, there was a decent amount of water still in there too
• Pitched yeast
• Sealed up and put vodka in airlock
• Ferment for 2 weeks
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