Step by Step for recipe, please.... - Page 2

cabal09 · 02-08-2012, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chickypad

Just kidding around. I know we're the minority.
Glad you can help out the OP with some better lagering advice.

Not a problem, just paying it forward.

CKH1 · 02-08-2012, 10:47 AM

Looks like I will most likely stick with a Pilsner Malt extract (DME or LME) to start with, just looks easier at this point. I am sure an all-grain recipe will taste better in the end, but for now we will just keep it simple with the extract method.
I can get my hands on Pilsner DME and LME.
Which is best? LME or DME? any specific manufacturers you recommend?
Thank you again for all your help and assistance, this noob homebrewer really appreciates it.
My lab will smell like a brewery this weekend!

**chickypad** · 02-08-2012, 02:49 PM

DME and LME each have their own pros and cons. LME has a shorter shelf life and should probably be refrigerated (can grow mold). It can be harder to get out of the container. DME is easier to store and weigh out, harder to mix in and can be a sticky clumpy mess sometimes. I think some say that LME is more likely to cause "extract twang" but personally I think it has to do with the age/quality of the extract. If your LHBS is not a high volume place you may want to get it from a larger store to ensure it's not old and is good quality (not to criticize the little guys - I try to support local stores when I can!).

You can also do a mix of both - add the DME at beginning of boil and liquid with 15 min to go. Note that DME will give you more gravity points than LME so you need to adjust the amounts. Rule of thumb is you multiply the grain weight by .75 to get equivalent LME and by .6 to get DME.

Let us know how it turns out!

**helibrewer** · 02-08-2012, 07:05 PM

In addition, since you are doing this as an extract and not all-grain you can reduce the boil time down to 60 minutes instead of 90....there is not a DMS problem with extract. Pilsner Base Malt grain is pretty famous for DMS so those all-grain recipes usually call for a 90 minute boil to reduce/eliminate it.

If you are doing a partial boil be sure to mix your post boil water and wort very well before taking your OG reading....it's very common for stratification to occur with the significant difference in temp and gravity of the boiled wort and top off water.

**chickypad** · 02-08-2012, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helibrewer

In addition, since you are doing this as an extract and not all-grain you can reduce the boil time down to 60 minutes instead of 90....there is not a DMS problem with extract. Pilsner Base Malt grain is pretty famous for DMS so those all-grain recipes usually call for a 90 minute boil to reduce/eliminate it.

Good point. A shorter boil might help avoid darkening/carmelization with extract, and this is a pretty light beer.

**Yooper** · 02-08-2012, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabal09

I brew alot of Lagers, the best way is to start at ale temps, once fermentation kicks off drop it SLOWLY to the recommended fermentation temp. Once you have reached your FG the raise back up to ale temps for 24 to 48 hours. Then I cold crash for about a week, then I transfer to kegs and lager for a couple of months. It's not hard, but it takes alot longer.

I brew alot of lagers, too, and I disagree about the "best way". I don't pitch my ales at 85 degrees and lower to 65 degrees, and I don't pitch my lagers 20 degrees too warm either!

I like to cool my wort to 48 degrees, and pitch a HUGE quantity of yeast (about twice as much for lagers as ales) at 46 degrees and then allow the temperature to rise up to 50-52 degrees during fermentation. This gives a super clean lager that usually doesn't even need a diacetyl rest (but it doesn't hurt to do one as a matter of course). I then rack and lager for 1 week per every 8-10 points of OG (usually 6-8 weeks) at 34 degrees.

cabal09 · 02-08-2012, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yooper

I brew alot of lagers, too, and I disagree about the "best way". I don't pitch my ales at 85 degrees and lower to 65 degrees, and I don't pitch my lagers 20 degrees too warm either!

I like to cool my wort to 48 degrees, and pitch a HUGE quantity of yeast (about twice as much for lagers as ales) at 46 degrees and then allow the temperature to rise up to 50-52 degrees during fermentation. This gives a super clean lager that usually doesn't even need a diacetyl rest (but it doesn't hurt to do one as a matter of course). I then rack and lager for 1 week per every 8-10 points of OG (usually 6-8 weeks) at 34 degrees.

Thats the best thing about this hobby, you have your way that works for you and I have mine. I have tried both ways and they both work great.