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Old 02-29-2008, 04:02 AM   #11
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IBU stand for International Bittering Unit. It's a measure of how much bitterness you get from your hops. Most hopped extracts don't have much more the 5 to 10 IBUs even if brewed by the recipe instructions. Which would be fine for a nice light session beer. But like I said this is gonna be much bigger then that, and will need more bitterness. Unruly, do you have a homebrew store nearby where you could buy some hops if need be to add some bitterness?

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Old 02-29-2008, 04:06 AM   #12
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Check the SG in about a week and if it stays pretty high then give the carboy a good swirl to rouse the yeast. Wait another week and check again.

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Old 02-29-2008, 02:44 PM   #13
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Their is a brewstore near my home that sell hops. I just need to know how much and what to do with the hops...............

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Old 02-29-2008, 11:45 PM   #14
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Well, if it needs them added (and you won't know 100% for sure until it's done fermenting, but I think it will need them) then you'll probably want to buy an ounce or two of hops (I'm thinking centennial hops would work well, and should be obtainable) then put them in a quart or so of water, and boil for an hour (basically making a hop tea) then add the "hop tea" to your beer.

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Old 03-01-2008, 12:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ooompa Loompa
Well, if it needs them added (and you won't know 100% for sure until it's done fermenting, but I think it will need them) then you'll probably want to buy an ounce or two of hops (I'm thinking centennial hops would work well, and should be obtainable) then put them in a quart or so of water, and boil for an hour (basically making a hop tea) then add the "hop tea" to your beer.

Unfortunately that will NOT work. There has to be sugars in the solution to isomerize the hops.

Either just add some hops as a dry hop for a bit more flavor/aroma or mix dme into some water and boil with some hops for an hour if you need more bitterness.

Odds are this will be quite drinkable without making it more bitter. I would dry hop some hops though for aroma and a bit of flavor as the original kit is lacking in that department anyway.
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:07 AM   #16
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OK i moved this beer to the secondary two days ago. it's specific gravity was 1.03 so its dropping nicely. it's still has some fermentation going on but i figured it should still be good to age for approx 3 months and i wanted to get it off of the yeast sediment. my question is the beer on top of the separation appears black?? is this normal???? the beer under that layer is a brown color... thanks for any help......

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Old 03-21-2008, 10:31 AM   #17
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You shouldn't rack to a secondary until the fermentation is completely done, but it sounds like it's done anyways. The term 'secondary' really is a misnomer, it should be called a clearing tank. That dark color you're seeing is normal. It means the yeast is dropping out of suspension.

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