Simcoe IPA recipe
Just wondering if there is anything about this recipe that I should think about changing. The only thing i've thought about changing was adding the 1lb of dme at 10min for a late addition. Can someone re-calculate ibu's for me if I were to do this?
I'll be doing a 3.5 gallon boil and topping off to 5 gallons.
numbers from the original recipe are 6.5%abv and 67.5 IBU's
If I need to give you any additional info let me know. This kit is the Simcoe IPA from midwest supplies.
1. Steep crushed grains for 10-30 minutes at 155 degrees.
2. Add malt extract(6lb lme/1lb dme) while brew pot is off the burner.
3. Bring to a boil and add ½ oz Simcoe bittering hops. (60 Minutes)
4. Add 1/2 oz Simcoe flavor hops for the last 40 minutes.
5. Add 1 oz Simcoe flavor hops with 20 minutes remaining.
6. Add 1 oz Simcoe aroma hops for last 2 minutes then remove from heat.
*edit* US-05 yeast
First off, the OG is a bit low for a true IPA, but don't let that stop you from making a beer that you want to make.
Beersmith shows an IBU of 58.6 for the late addition of the DME.
If I were making this recipe, I would probably add 1 oz at 60 min, 0.25 oz at 15 min, and 0.75 oz at flameout. Use 3 lbs LME at the start, and add 4 lbs LME (one extra lb) and the 1 lb DME at fifteen minutes. This would give you IBUs of 52.3, save one oz of hops, and bump up the OG to 1.059. Or you could use all the original hops and add more at 15 and flameout for an IBU of 69.6.
Adding more LME later will increase hop utilization, so it that is what you want, add less early.
With 1# DME at beginning:
I got 65 IBU if you use 5 gallons boil (lower OG).
60 IBU for 4 gallons boil
54 IBU for 3 gallons boil
If you take the 1# towards 10 minutes boil:
you can get 64 for a 4 gallons boil..
Remember the high OG at initial wort.. it will lower the bitterness..
Thanks for the responses, great suggestions.
Kungpaodog- I like the alternate recipe you suggested, and having an extra 1oz of simcoe is a huge plus. Now what if I were to use that 1oz for a dry hop? Good idea yes/no? I don't have any extra lme only what came with the kit so I think i'll do either 1lb dme extract to start and 6lbs lme at 10min or 3lbs lme to start and then 3lbs lme and 1lb dme at 10min.
Undallas- Please do explain a bit further- "Remember the high OG at initial wort.. it will lower the bitterness.."
"Adding more LME later will increase hop utilization, so it that is what you want, add less early." This is what I mean... less sugary wort tend to isomerize the AA in the hop.
Another note is to reference Edwort's IPA recipe.... get rid of the 40 minutes boil... it is almost pointless.. save hops for dry hopping.. you'll like fresh simcoe from dry hopping.
If I'm going to brew this, I would get most of my IBU at the beginning of the boil...
1oz Simcoe (60 minutes = 46 IBU)
.5 oz Simcoe (20 minutes +7.8 IBU)
Add the DME at 10 minutes before end.
.5 oz Simcoe (5 minutes +4 IBU)
1 oz Simcoe (dry hop for 7-10 days in secondary)
Total = 58 IBU which is in the middle of BJCP spec (40-70)
When would you add the lme then? I'm liking the looks of your altered recipe. Especially the 1oz dry hop. I have yet to dry hop a beer and this would be a perfect opportunity.
I have 6lb lme and 1lb dme.
To answer your question, I need to know your prefer IBU #? Do you have a feeling on the IBU#? Different combination would give you different IBU #.
One note on dry hopping... you have another options.. Here's the exact word from another HBTer; it is lengthy, but worth a try. I haven't tried this method yet.
" Dry Hopping in the Primary (sorry, a bit lengthy)
I had always been disappointed with my attempts at dry hopping. I did it a couple of times in the keg and the results were almost undrinkable. Very harsh and grassy notes, not pleasant and floral like some of the commercial examples (Bell's Two Hearted Ale is probably the best example I can think of). I swore off dry hopping and relied on late boil additions instead, and while this process made fine beer, it wasn't quite what I wanted.
Then, in 2006, I attended the National Homebrew Conference in Orlando. I went to a seminar given by Matt Brynildson who is the brewmaster over at Firestone brewery. He talked about getting hop character in beer in a variety of ways and talked about dry hopping and described the process that he uses and the reasons why it works for him. The process is as follows:
Once the beer starts fermenting in the primary, let it reach high krausen and then start to crash (about 1 day or so after high krausen). Fermentation is still going on, but at a lower activity level. Add your dry hops to the primary at this point and let the beer continue to ferment with the dry hops for 3 days total. After 3 days, fermentation should be complete and the beer should be racked to a secondary. If you use pellet hops (and I would recommend that you do), it may be necessary to rack one additional time to help remove as much hop debris as possible. Keg or bottle as usual.
I went home and tried this technique and was blown away at the difference. What was once grassy and harsh, is now floral and almost perfumey with wonderful hop character. I am a dedicated dry hopper now.
Some things that I think are important:
1. Dry hopping using this method with whole hops is problematic. I use carboys, and trying to stuff whole hops into the neck of a carboy is not something I think is practical. Use pellet hops and your life will be much easier.
2. Do not use a hop bag. Just dump the pellets in, this will maximize the exposure of the hops to the wort and get the biggest impact. I usually get a clean piece of printer paper, weigh out the hops, place the hops on the paper, then bend the paper to form a trough so that the hops can be dumped right into the neck of the carboy. No funnel necessary.
3. As the beer ferments with the hops in it, the hops want to float to the top. A couple of times a day, I'll go in and swirl the carboy a few times to help submerge the hops.
4. Don't exceed 3 days. This is plenty of time to get what the hops have to offer. More than this and you risk getting those harsh grassy notes.
5. Pick a hop variety that you like. Dry hopping gives you a concentrated does of whatever your hops smell and taste like. I am absolutely nuts over Centennial right now. That is what is in the Bell's Two Hearted.
6. I think 2 - 3 oz of dry hops for a 5 - 6 gallon batch is appropriate and gives a great hop character.
7. Increase your batch size by 1/2 gallon or so due to the added wort lost in dry hop absorption and the possibility of an extra racking.
Sorry this is long. Hope it helps.
Hmm that dry hop method sounds very interesting. I wonder if it would work similarly to leave the beer in a 6 gallon better bottle for 3 weeks total and add the hops the last 3 days. Or is what the fellow HBTer saying is that adding to the primary that is still fermenting is what helped leave out the grassy notes.
Id be happy with 50-60 ibu's. This will be my 8th batch so I still don't have a taste for certain ibu levels yet.
Alright here's my recipe. Can someone give me an IBU calculation.
4 gallon steep, probably end up with 3.5 in the boil.
60min- 3lb lme, 1 oz. Simcoe
20min- .5 oz. Simcoe
10min- 3lb lme, 1lb dme
2min- .5 oz. Simcoe
1 oz. Simcoe dry hop
Thanks for the help
If anyone knows of an web based calculator that can do late extract addictions i'd love to know about it.
use this software to try to help you estimate your IBU based on Tinseth's calculation.
The key is to estimate your gravity when you add your hops and length of time in the wort...
What late extract addition does is raise the OG up... so the bitterness factor is almost negligible at 10 minutes and 2 minute .5 addition..
IBU = 63 (Rager)
I removed the late addition and pretend it was diluted from begining to end, IBU = 65...
You can see that late addition has little or no effect on the IBU.
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