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Old 05-11-2005, 12:37 AM   #11
ROAD MUTANT
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Default recycled yeast

One more idea that has worked well for me.

Take 1 slap pack, add to a mason jar. Fill with clean wort.(no hop residue, not taken from a secondary) If you use wort from a boil, take a sample before you add your bittering hops. Let the trub settle so the sample clairifies and you will have reasonably clean wort to feed your yeast with.

Anyway, after adding your yeast and clean wort, let it sit and propagate for a few days so you have a good size colony. (about twice as much as you need to pitch) See where I'm going with this?

On brew day, while you still have clean wort (before adding anything)Take another sample right from the pot and set aside. When you get ready to pitch your mason jar of yeast, swirl it up to distribute it evenly in the solution and pitch about half of the mason jar. Now, take the cooled wort you removed from the boil and add some to the remaining yeast so it will re-propagate again. you can do this every week for probably 20 times or more.

The advantage of this process is you don't contaminate your yeast with any hops and trub from previous batches. Your yeast stays pure (or reasonably so) and you get more consistant performance from batch to batch. Also, this gives you more lattitude to use the yeast in the different styles of beer that it is compatible with.

Ken.

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Old 05-11-2005, 01:31 AM   #12
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I missed a week of brewing due to travel. I have no home brew to drink for another week (unless I just bust in early on the batch which is bottle conditioning now).

I have more yeast bottles in my fridge than beer Good thing I'm single and don't have to keep food (eeewwww) in there!

Good point there Road Mutant. I have read that before but never have put it to practice.

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Old 05-11-2005, 01:46 AM   #13
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Default how much?

what i really need to know is:
1-how much yeast byproduct do you need to brew 5 gallons
2-if u mix yeast with malt extract-how much extract?
right from the bag?
mixed with water?
3- how do u know if mixture is activated?

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Old 05-11-2005, 01:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewhead
milk shake. just me - shrug

anyhooo - ok bill i'm betting my next ten gallons on your yeast recycling process. it had better work or there'll be hell to pay!

Not just you. If I want a milkshake I'll order one...

You'll be fine... RHAHB!
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Old 05-11-2005, 01:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROAD MUTANT
after adding your yeast and clean wort, let it sit and propagate for a few days so you have a good size colony. (about twice as much as you need to pitch) See where I'm going with this?

On brew day, while you still have clean wort (before adding anything)Take another sample right from the pot and set aside. When you get ready to pitch your mason jar of yeast, swirl it up to distribute it evenly in the solution and pitch about half of the mason jar. Now, take the cooled wort you removed from the boil and add some to the remaining yeast so it will re-propagate again. you can do this every week for probably 20 times or more.

The advantage of this process is you don't contaminate your yeast with any hops and trub from previous batches. Your yeast stays pure (or reasonably so) and you get more consistant performance from batch to batch. Also, this gives you more lattitude to use the yeast in the different styles of beer that it is compatible with.

Ken.
I've tried that, but you have to remember to add an airlock and place the starter back in the fridge to stop/retard the process. That's why I am looking for test tubes so I can propogate and seperate. They'll be great for starters (keep reading).

One tip I read was to make a batch and then "can" your 5 gal. wort (as if canning jelly). You can use these for starters so at any given moment all you have to do is pop the top on the mason jar, pour your yeast into the sterilized wort and add an airlock (you'd have to sacrifice a lid and drill a hole in it for the rubber bung to hold the airlock).

I am actually going to try it later this year.
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Old 05-11-2005, 01:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busmanray
what i really need to know is:
1-how much yeast byproduct do you need to brew 5 gallons
2-if u mix yeast with malt extract-how much extract?
right from the bag?
mixed with water?
3- how do u know if mixture is activated?
1. Just about a 1/3 of a beer bottle will be more than enough from another batch. Remember a slap pack/vial is only a small amount.

2. OK,, here you want to boil water and malt for your starter. About 1 cup of water to 3 TBS of malt should be enough. More cannot hurt, but is not necessary. Boil the mixture for 5 mins and let cool to the 70s before adding the yeast. (See my last post). Seal with an airlock.

3. It's active when your airlock is releasing gas.
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Old 05-11-2005, 01:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DyerNeedOfBeer
I missed a week of brewing due to travel. I have no home brew to drink for another week (unless I just bust in early on the batch which is bottle conditioning now).

I have more yeast bottles in my fridge than beer Good thing I'm single and don't have to keep food (eeewwww) in there!

Good point there Road Mutant. I have read that before but never have put it to practice.
I have about 20 bottles of yeast in my fridge too. That's one reason why I was thinking about test tube vials. Should be about a 4:1 ratio.
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Old 05-13-2005, 01:47 AM   #18
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okay guys i think i got this down-except,what can i substitute for an airlock -and how long does it take the yeast to activate,so ill know when its safe to start brewing?

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Old 05-13-2005, 03:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busmanray
what can i substitute for an airlock
I ordered a yeast starter kit from morebeer.com. What I wanted was the 2000ml Erlenmeyer flask (glass flask that you can take from boil to ice bath with no cracking) but the whole kit was only 2 bucks more. Anyway... back to the point, the directions suggested using aluminum foil over the top of the yeast starter flast in leiu of an airlock and rubber stopper. They mentioned that there is less contact area with the foil and flask as there is with the stopper. Apparently the area where the stopper and the glass meet will provide an area for infection to thrive. I imagine this would be due to the stopper keeping some moisture there and the inability of the yeast in the lower portion of the flask from being able to run the 'baddies' off. The foil cannot seal so well that it causes a pressure buildup yet it keeps anything from floating in. The starter will generate the carbon dioxide to keep the air out anyway. I'm going this route even though I got the stopper and air lock. They recommended if you use the stopper that you 'flame' sterilize the lip of the flask before pouring the contents out. I would rather not deal with that.

Quote:
how long does it take the yeast to activate
I have had success making my starters on Friday night and brewing on Sundays. Any time is better than no starter.
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Old 05-13-2005, 12:50 PM   #20
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You can start brweing when you notice activity in the airlock.

As a substitute you could always use a balloon with a pin hole in it. When it rises (get full of gass) there is activity.

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