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Old 12-14-2013, 03:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BigJack View Post
For extract batches there isn't much point in doing full wort boils. Steep in four liters of water instead of 10. Then conduct your full boil with just four liters of water and all your lme. You will get more concenteated sugar-to-water ratio in your wort in the boil, which will lead to kettle caramelization, and thus darker colors and more complex flavor.

After flameout, and in the rest of water, pre-chilled. You'll be at pitching temps instantly.
Poor Information.
Hop utilization is decreased on partial boils, compensating hop additions could help here but why waste more hops when OP can full boil?

"caramelizing sugars" lead to unfermentable sugars and thus the dreaded 1.020 FG extract wall.

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Originally Posted by Tamir View Post
I get mixed opinions about that, well, I half a huge pot so I can boil a full batch, but I do it mostly for the hops working on the whole batch.
Would you actually suggest NOT doing a full boil?

If I decide to boil the full batch, what is the reason for steeping in a smaller amount of water instead of in full 10 litres?
DO a full boil if you can.
This also prevents contamination from top up water.

Benefits to "partial mashing" with a set amount of water/grain with enough enzymatic basemalt will contribute to gravity instead of just color.
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Cellar: Maple Whiskey Barrel Stout, ST Pumking Clone
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:19 PM   #12
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For extract batches there isn't much point in doing full wort boils. Steep in four liters of water instead of 10. Then conduct your full boil with just four liters of water and all your lme. You will get more concenteated sugar-to-water ratio in your wort in the boil, which will lead to kettle caramelization, and thus darker colors and more complex flavor.

After flameout, and in the rest of water, pre-chilled. You'll be at pitching temps instantly.
I gotta quit posting while taking NyQuil.
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