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10-25-2013, 05:00 PM   #21
glenparc
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 Originally Posted by Pie_Man Dude, this is like pulling teeth. Please post the recipe. How much extract did you use? Indicate DME and LME separately. In your case, it's probably just LME, liquid malt extract. Also, how much dextrose? I know you didn't use grain, it's an extract beer, grainbill is just the phrase for your fermentables.
Sorry, this is all very new to me. I used 1kg dextrose with 2 litres of water and used the whole can of the LME (1.7kg). I hope this helps

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10-25-2013, 05:30 PM   #22
Pie_Man
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So, sugar and premade extract has a estimatable amount gravity it contributes, expressed as gravity points per gallon (ppg) (I know the unit in gallon values, so I'll convert to points per liters from there). The more water you add, the more diluted the sugar concentration, the lower your gravity and vice versa.

Step one, convert points per gallon to points per liter (ppl), 8.3454 x ppg = L°/kg. Source: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3-4.html

Dextrose contributes 44 ppg, or 8.3453 * 44 = 367 ppl
LME contributes 36 ppg, or 8.3453 * 36 = 300 ppl
1kg of Dextrose x 367 ppl = 367 total gravity points from dextrose
1.7kg of LMW X 300 = 3.75 X 36 = 510 gravity points from LME
367 + 510 = 877 total gravity points

877 total gravity points / 21 liters (your total volume into the fermenter) ~ 42 , so your OG should have been 1.042.

Fairly close to what you got with your hydrometer, but probably off because you didn't temperature correct your hydrometer reading and/or dillution of your hydrometer sample from the top off water.

I hope this helps

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10-25-2013, 05:39 PM   #23
glenparc
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Pie_Man So, sugar and premade extract has a estimatable amount gravity it contributes, expressed as gravity points per gallon (ppg) (I know the unit in gallon values, so I'll convert to points per liters from there). The more water you add, the more diluted the sugar concentration, the lower your gravity and vice versa. Step one, convert points per gallon to points per liter (ppl), 8.3454 x ppg = L°/kg. Source: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3-4.html Dextrose contributes 44 ppg, or 8.3453 * 44 = 367 ppl LME contributes 36 ppg, or 8.3453 * 36 = 300 ppl 1kg of Dextrose x 367 ppl = 367 total gravity points from dextrose 1.7kg of LMW X 300 = 3.75 X 36 = 510 gravity points from LME 367 + 510 = 877 total gravity points 877 total gravity points / 21 liters (your total volume into the fermenter) ~ 42 , so your OG should have been 1.042. Close to what you got with your hydrometer, but probably off because you didn't temperature correct your hydrometer reading and/or dillution of your hydrometer sample from the top off water. I hope this helps
Thanks for being patient with me lol. It's obviously a lot to take in when your new to this but you definitely helped. Thanks so much!
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10-25-2013, 05:57 PM   #24
HopSong
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My experience with the Coopers kits are that they produce a beer that is too low in alcohol.. i.e. real session beers. They were ok.. but, once you get a few under your belt, you might want to check out what an IPA, for instance, should be for an ABV range and ramp up the kit with either a little LME or DME. That said, if you like kits for getting your feet wet, I've found Brewers Best to be pretty darn good. Northern Brewer, Midwest and Austin all produce good kits. My all time favorite extract kits come from MoreBeer in CA. I think they've done their research on them.. not to say the others haven't. They have inexpensive and more expensive kits based on ingredients.. pull the trigger on what floats your boat One thing about their kits is that they are FRESH.. Haven't been sitting around a long time. Time has an effect on extract and hops. Same with yeast.

Regarding using tap water. Might be ok.. depending the makeup of your water. If you use tap water, you'll want to either boil it ahead of time or use a Camden tablet to remove chlorine or chloramines, depending on what your city uses You'll gain more experience with this part of brewing.. for some (me included) it's really a learning process.. but I'm an old fart and am a visual learner.. don't do book learning very well.

Some of my first beers used RO water.. left a bit to be desired. Then I went with 1/2 tap and 1/2 tap water.. that was much better. I going to try a few batches using spring water. We have a spring about 30 miles away that supplies spring water to a major spring water distributer.. just uphill from where they get it. I've only brewed with it once.. at a National Brew Day and my group's extract beer was the favorite of all the beers.. both all grain and extract... that may say something.. Purchasing water can be expensive. One place I can get this spring water is at the Dollar Store.. \$1/g.. Possibly using a mix of spring water and dechlorinated tap water will be good for your process. Fortunately, you are brewing extract right now so you don't have to worry about chemistry.

Sometimes, even with extract brewing, adding a tsp of gypsum helps beers like IPA and APA's.. different for malty beers tho.

Keep at it.. you'll make beer.. and each batch will be better.

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10-25-2013, 10:25 PM   #25
glenparc
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I've done two cooper kits so far, an ipa and an ale (in primary). I've looked into the kits from brewers best but they are almost twice as much as the coopers. Id love to try one of there kits but they're kind of pricey. Maybe I'll do one when the ales finished.

The first beer I made was all tap water, and the second I used all spring water. Still waiting to try the ale, I've got high hopes for it
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10-26-2013, 02:04 AM   #26
HopSong
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Yep, as I mentioned about the kits at MoreBeer.. the price goes up as the ingredients accumulate.. Coopers (at least the ones I've done) are extract only. Brewers Best adds a few things.. like grains, hop sacs, bottle caps and a few other things as I remember.

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Hop Song Brewing Healdsburg, CA