Questions from a grateful beginner

samuelzero · 02-09-2006, 09:10 PM

Hi everyone. This is my first post.

Before I get to my questions, I’d like to thank the members of this forum for all the information I’ve received from reading through the archived posts. I’m about to brew my first real batch, and I’ve managed to find answers to most of my questions without even having to ask. Great forum!

I’m brewing a 2.5 gallon batch with a Mr. Beer as the primary and bottling vessel, and a 3.5 gallon bucket as the secondary. After reading countless recipes and info about brewing, I decided to invent a recipe using ingredients that are used in some of my favorite brews. Though I’m making a half batch, I’m going to list the amounts as if I were making a 5 gallon batch, as that’s what you’re all probably used to.

I’m going for an American IPA vibe. I settled upon 8 lbs of liquid pale malt extract as the base, with ½ lb steeped Crystal malt (60 Lovibond). I’m using 2 oz. Chinook bittering hop pellets for 60 minutes, 1 oz of Cascade pellets for 15 minutes, and 1 oz of whole leaf Cascade to dry hop in the secondary. For yeast I chose Cooper’s Dry Australian Ale yeast purely because it seems to work at higher fermentation temperatures, which my apartment is sure to provide (it hovers in the low to mid seventies. Hopefully it won’t be too warm…)

Now to the questions. I chose Chinook bittering hops because I’m a big fan of Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale. Some of the literature I’ve read claims that this hop will overpower a brew. What do you folks think? Do you think that 2 oz (assuming an alpha acid content of 11-13%) in the boil 60 minutes will overpower 8 lbs of liquid pale malt? I do love a bitter, hoppy brew, but I want it to be at least somewhat balanced.

Also, I’m a little concerned about my Mr. Beer bursting like a daisy cutter. For those who may not be familiar with the design, the threads that the cap screws into have two small channels cut into them in lieu of an airlock (CO2 escapes through the channels). Does anyone have experience using Mr. Beer to ferment reasonably high gravity, all-malt beers?

I appreciate your opinions on this!

Beer Snob · 02-09-2006, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samuelzero

Now to the questions. I chose Chinook bittering hops because I’m a big fan of Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale. Some of the literature I’ve read claims that this hop will overpower a brew. What do you folks think? Do you think that 2 oz (assuming an alpha acid content of 11-13%) in the boil 60 minutes will overpower 8 lbs of liquid pale malt? I do love a bitter, hoppy brew, but I want it to be at least somewhat balanced.

Hmmm..... Well I am not sure by the post if you are planning to use these figures in the 2.5 gal batch or if you are reducing these figures of hops. I think if your using AA in the 11-13% range then 2 oz is a bit too much (for a 5g batch)... at least for my taste. Remember you are planning to use the other hops as well. I would drop it down to 1 oz. Certainly when you get to dry hoping you will give it a taste and you'll decide then if it needs more hops. I think when you get to that point you might decide not to even use all of the 1oz for dry hopping. Sounds like you just started. Airing on the side of caution of excessivly hoping is always a good plan.

samuelzero · 02-09-2006, 09:26 PM

Thanks for the quick reply!

Yes, all of the amounts would be cut in half for my batch, that is 4 lbs of LME, 1 oz of Chinook, and one total oz of Cascade.

So maybe I'll cut the bittering hops to 1/2 oz, and taste it after transferring to the secondary before adding the dry hops. Good idea.

Beer Snob · 02-10-2006, 02:40 AM

If you browse the posts here you find that the big thing people say when racking(including me incidently) is "Wow..... the hops is pretty strong... is it going to mellow?"

samuelzero · 02-10-2006, 01:49 PM

Yes, I do recall reading several posts to that effect. I've decided to cut the Chinook quantity in half.

Say, does anyone have any opinion about whether or not Mr. Beer is up to the task? I've read more than one horror story about buckets blowing their tops during vigorous fermentations. Given that the Mr. Beer top is threaded, I'm wondering if I'm at risk for an explosion. I'm using more malt in my recipe than the Mr. Beer kits (though the kit had some corn sugar in it).

**Walker** · 02-10-2006, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samuelzero

Yes, I do recall reading several posts to that effect. I've decided to cut the Chinook quantity in half.

Say, does anyone have any opinion about whether or not Mr. Beer is up to the task? I've read more than one horror story about buckets blowing their tops during vigorous fermentations. Given that the Mr. Beer top is threaded, I'm wondering if I'm at risk for an explosion. I'm using more malt in my recipe than the Mr. Beer kits (though the kit had some corn sugar in it).

If you fear a Mr. Explosion, you can always go to a home brew supply place and buy yourself a proper airlock and a drilled rubber stopper. Then just drill a hole in the screw-on lid of Mr. Beer and insert the stopper/airlock assembly.

That should only cost you a couple of dollars, and you'll get to enjoy the mesmerizing spectacle of bubbles coming out of the airlock during fermentation.

-walker

Truble · 02-10-2006, 02:31 PM

I would be concerned that brewing a bigger beer in Mr Beer than what they make it for could get messy. If your beer krausens big time, those air channels are going to get gunked up, and you might have a Mr. Mess. I agree with Walker that for a couple bucks, you can slap an airlock in that pig and be safer, and increase the entertainment quotient substantially.

on the hop note, I made my first 5G brew with 1oz of ~13 AAU hops for 60 minutes, and 1oz ~5AAU for 15 minutes. I love hoppy beer, and now use more, but I feel that that was a good level to start at, so you can gauge what the contribution level is. I read that you are going to cut it to 1oz effective (1/2 oz for 1/2 batch). I think you will be happy with that to start.

samuelzero · 02-10-2006, 02:36 PM

This is good to hear. Thanks for the advice, guys.

With respect to the airlock, I have one on the way via mail order that I'm going to install in the lid of the 3.5 gallon bucket that I'm going to use for a secondary. I didn't purchase a drilled rubber stopper to use with it, though. I thought you just drill a hole in the lid and stick it in. Do I need the rubber stopper?

Truble · 02-10-2006, 02:40 PM

The rubber stopper/grommet will make it seal properly, so yeah, you probably should have one. You might be able to pick one up at a hardware store. I know that the one I go to has a whole section for weird little bits like that.

**Walker** · 02-10-2006, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samuelzero

This is good to hear. Thanks for the advice, guys.

With respect to the airlock, I have one on the way via mail order that I'm going to install in the lid of the 3.5 gallon bucket that I'm going to use for a secondary. I didn't purchase a drilled rubber stopper to use with it, though. I thought you just drill a hole in the lid and stick it in. Do I need the rubber stopper?

You can probably get away with a hole in the lid, but you will get a much better seal if you use a rubber stopper... two hard pieces of plastic jammed together won't seal as well as two hard pieces of plastic with soft rubber between them.

-walker