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Old 10-17-2011, 04:15 PM   #1
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Default Priming Bottles w/No Bottling Bucket

I'm using the Coopers DIY Kit with the Lager (ale yeast) Extract. For this batch I don't have a problem with priming as the kit came with sugar tabs, 2/750ml bottle.

However, for the next batch, I'd like to get beyond the expense of these tabs and go with a dextrose prime. If I don't use a bottling bucket and want to go from the primary directly to the bottles, I'm having a process question(s).

I see two options.. one is to use a specific amount of dextrose funneled into the bottle.. but, I'd guess it's not certifiably sterile. The other option I see is to boil up 1C or 1.5C of water and add a specified amount of dextrose.. whatever the proper amount is for ~23L. Then get a large syringe.. such as one used for injecting BBQ seasonings into meats.. and transferring X amount of solution into each bottle before filling.

Is there another method you'd suggest?

Also, If I use the syringe method, what would be the amount of sugar to add to the water such that I can prime about 30 bottles. Guess there must be a formula someplace.

The reason I'm shying away from a bottling bucket is the "remote" possibility of adding oxygen or wild "stuff" that might be floating in the air. I'd like to have my first batch turn out as good as I possibly can for an all extract beer.

Thanks for any suggestions.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:18 PM   #2
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I bottle straight from my primary and just add the dextrose straight to each bottle with a funnel. Works fine for me and carbs up perfect for my taste with no bottle bombs. 1/2tbsp per 12oz bottle is what I used.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:28 PM   #3
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You can add the sugar directly to bottles. In finished beer there should be enough alcohol that infection from the sugar is pretty remote. That said, the bottling bucket offers additional benefits beyond just thoroughly mixing the sugar. There's going to be a lot of yeast and other sediment sitting the the fermenter, especially if this is right from a primary. While it's easy to take care and minimize transfer of this to the bottling bucket, bottling right from the primary there's a much higher chance you'll stir all this up during the process. Filling from the bottling bucket is also gravity driven whereas from the primary you'll need to maintain a siphon the whole time. You can always pickup a 5 gallon bucket lid for ~$1 or throw some foil on the top if you are worried about things falling into the beer.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:35 PM   #4
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Using Safale blue packet I always get a very firm yeast pancake, and can take out the beer with a jug and fill the bottles via a funnel. Theoretical chance of infection but I have not had problems. Because I don't like to waste beer, when the jug becomes impractical I up-end the remaining beer into the jug, wait 2 minutes and then pour into bottles. I use a quarter level teaspoon, whether the bottles are 500 ml, 1L or 3L.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:35 PM   #5
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In this case, the primary has a valve near the bottom of the FV. The videos I've seen you toss (or drink) the first few ounces that might have settled around or in the valve.. and bottle from there.

In this case, the yeast is the Coopers Ale yeast (?)

So, 12 oz bottles take about 1/2T.. guess 1T/750ml(25oz)? Seems like a lot.. but, that's why I'm asking..

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:38 PM   #6
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I've seen some sites that say that they use 3/4 to 1T for a 12oz bottle. That seemed ridiculously high to me, so I went with 1/2 and it worked perfectly.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:42 PM   #7
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Why make it so hard on yourself?

The problem with bottling from a primary or secondary instead of using a bottling bucket, is that since you have patiently gone and let your beer settle and clear, in order to mix the priming solution and beer effectively, you would have to stir it in the carboy which would a) kick up all that nice sediment you have patiently let fall, b) possibly oxydize the beer.

It really defeats the purpose of both a long primary/no secondary or a secondary if you have to stir up all the nice sediment you patiently waited to settle just so you can have consistent carbonation.

Why don't you just go to the hardware store and make a bottling bucket? You can find everything you need, including a spigot there.

With my bottling bucket and my dip tube, I leave no more than about 3 ounces behind, which means I can get about 52 to 54 bottles per 5 gallon batch.

Go to a hardware store and get a translucent or white bucket...but look for one where the 5 gallon mark falls way below the top of the bucket. Usually it will say 5 gallons at 3rd band from the top. (oh get the lid too....I totally regret not getting it when I did.)

Then get a spigot and make a dedicated bottling bucket. It really defeats the purpose of both a long primary/no secondary or a secondary if you have to stir up all the nice sediment you patiently waited to settle just so you can have consistent carbonation.

Mine is the translucent Leaktite brand 5 gallon container with the gallon and liter markings from Homedepot.



Here's a pic of mine from my bottling thread.



One of my dip tubes and what gets left behind.



You'll find a ton of good info here to make bottling easier.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/revvys-tips-bottler-first-time-otherwise-94812/

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:45 PM   #8
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Half teaspoon (tsp), not tablespoon (T). It winds up being in the neighborhood of 4 ounces for a 5 gallon batch. Also in the future you might want to look at getting a bucket without the valve for your primary. They provide lots of extra places for bacteria and yeast to hide making them more difficult to thoroughly sanitize.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:59 PM   #9
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Yeah, sorry, tsp, not T. I was mistaken.

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Old 10-17-2011, 05:09 PM   #10
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+1 to bottling bucket. You will save time AND make better, more consistent beer. I did exactly what Revvy suggests, and it cost me about $11.00. That pays for itself in about two batches. No brainer in my book.

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