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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Plan of attack- wordy
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:26 PM   #1
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Default Plan of attack- wordy

Im going to brew a American Pale ale from extract, I'm still a beginner and have made a mistake or two that is for sure- this is my 16th beer and I still have not created a beer that my beer snob of a wife is happy with.

Here is my plan of attack

1) Make a yeast starter with a American Ale smack pack, 1 cup DME, 1/2 tsp nutrient, and a liter of water. I will add the yeast at 70° than I will slowly cool to 61° for 24 hours.

2) Boil 5 gallons of water adding 12 oz Victory, 8 oz Munich and 8 oz white malts at 100° steeping up to 160° for a total of 30 min. Remove

3) Turn off heat at boil add 2 lb of Briess DME bring back to rolling boil for 5 min.

4) .Hops as follows, 5 oz Magnum at 60, .5oz Cascade at 15, .5 oz Cascade and .5 oz Centennial at 5

5) 1/2 tsb Nutrient and Whirlflock at 15 min remaining

6) 4 lbs LME at the end of boil- flame off

7) Add water to 5 gallons- Recirculate wort through pump and chill plate until mid 60's

8) Transfer to 6 gallon better bottle and aerate with bottled Oxygen through stone for 1 min

9) Place in cooler until 61°- add wort, seal with 1" blow off tube - maintain temp

10) At 2 days replace with another cap attached to hose that will fill another 5 gal better bottle outside the cooler with CO2-

11) At end of fermentation (aprox 1 week) transfer to the CO2 filled 5 gal better bottle slowly raising temp to 70° for 1-2 weeks

12) Transfer to C02 filled bottling bucket with priming sugar and bottle

13) Temp control bottles at 71° for 1 week- than let them sit in garage for a min of 3 weeks

14) Drink

Thoughts?

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Old 12-01-2012, 05:41 PM   #2
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A few thoughts:
The Munich should be mashed, and possibly the "white malt" but I've never heard of that before, so I'm not sure. Is it a base malt? A caramel/crystal malt? To do it as a mini-mash, hold at 152F for 30 minutes, minimum. If the Munich is the only diastatic malt you have there, then go for 60 minutes. Munich can convert itself, but not much else. Assuming that the "white malt" is a base malt, then 30 minutes should be sufficient.

I wouldn't bother with your secondary scheme. It's a lot of trouble for no real benefit. You don't need to secondary unless you're doing extended aging (>6 weeks), racking onto fruit or dry hopping - and many (most?) of us are now dry hopping in the primary. Leave your beer in the primary for 3 weeks, them bottle.

Leave your bottles at 71F for 3 weeks before chilling. You can try one after a week to see how it's coming along, but 3 weeks is where it kind of plateaus.

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Old 12-01-2012, 10:35 PM   #3
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Cool... I'll skip the secodary and keep in fermenter for 2-3 weeks?

The white malt should have been typed white wheat malt

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Old 12-01-2012, 10:55 PM   #4
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I second the "keep it in primary 3 weeks"....dont do secondary....

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Old 12-01-2012, 11:10 PM   #5
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Just a thought, if your wife is a 'beer snob' then you might want to consider dry hopping after active fermentation is over (day 10 - 21ish). I think she would appreciate the additional hop aroma from dry hopping. To keep it simple just dump 1oz of centenial pellets into a muslin bag and drop into the beer for 7-14 days.

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Old 12-01-2012, 11:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
The white malt should have been typed white wheat malt
Okay, white wheat malt will act as a base malt. A handfull of rice hulls probably isn't necessary, but wouldn't hurt. So if you;ve got 'em throw them in, if not, don;t sweat it.
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dump 1oz of centenial pellets into a muslin bag and drop into the beer for 7-14 days.
If by muslin bag you're referring to the muslin "gymsock" steeping bags, the mesh of those is too wide to provide any kind of barrier to the hop particles once the pellets hit the beer. If you do want to dry hop you can drop the pellets directly in your primary or use a fine-mesh bag (e.g., a nylon 1 gallon paint straining bag works well).
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Stop using so much caramel malt. Your beer will thank you.
(yes, Carapils is a caramel malt...so is Special B)

FERMENTING

BOTTLED
pujwI HIq Mild Ale
KPA Khitomer Pale Ale

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Old 12-02-2012, 12:11 AM   #7
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Any thoughts on cold crashing?

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Old 12-02-2012, 12:13 AM   #8
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I also have some questions for you:

What is her critique of your beer? What isn't measuring up? Flavor, Aroma, are there off flavors in your beer? Maybe she is looking for something a bit malty or toastier?

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Old 12-02-2012, 12:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Damage View Post
Okay, white wheat malt will act as a base malt. A handfull of rice hulls probably isn't necessary, but wouldn't hurt. So if you;ve got 'em throw them in, if not, don;t sweat it.

If by muslin bag you're referring to the muslin "gymsock" steeping bags, the mesh of those is too wide to provide any kind of barrier to the hop particles once the pellets hit the beer. If you do want to dry hop you can drop the pellets directly in your primary or use a fine-mesh bag (e.g., a nylon 1 gallon paint straining bag works well).
By Muslin I mean these: http://www.annapolishomebrew.com/p/1...slin-bag-small

I use them all the time for dry hopping and the pellets don't escape, they stay put. I've used them in the boil and in secondary and they work. Lots of people have success using this method.

Anyway, my point to the OP was consider dry hopping the pale ale to add a level of complexity that will definitely be appreciated from a hop aroma/flavor perspective, if that is what is desired.
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:16 AM   #10
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She says that they are generally to sweet or syrupy. Some beers are to malty- the last one was to raisiny... In general I'm more flexible but I have not made a really good beer yet. She said quote, she wants it to be more bright.

She enjoys IPA's from Ninkasi, Stone, 10 Barrel and Caldera- not overly hoped.

I dry hoped the last beer
I'm cutting 1 lb of LME in this next round
The rasiny beer tasted great before bottling, it has been in the bottle 3 weeks- lost all sence of hops.

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