Marko73

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homebeerbrewer

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I'd bottle as usual and age it that way. I don't think you will need the O2 absorbing caps for six months, that's not very long. However, if you plan to age for six years, I would use 'em.

cvstrat

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I'd go ahead and use the caps, but yeah you'd wanna age in bottle. Depending on the exact recipe, I'd probably leave it in primary for 2-4 weeks, rack to secondary, let it sit in secondary for another 2-4 weeks until all of the sediment is completely settled then bottle.

Wait 5 months or so from that point. Which will probably be hard to do it tastes good lol. Lock em up and give someone else the key

marubozo

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Interesting question as I'm brewing the same recipe this weekend. I wasn't sure about conditioning/aging procedures as well. But here is my plan of attack based on no experience, but rather my own best guesstimation as to what might work.

1 month in primary.
2 months in secondary
2-3 months in bottles

Was basically going to stick with the 1-2-3 method but use months instead of weeks. But if any experts out there say it's better to do the bulk of the aging in secondary, bottles, etc. then please share.

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Secondary: Nothing
Kegged: SNPA Clone, Apfelwein, American IPA
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brian_g

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My only concern would be if you have enough live yeast for carbonation. 3 months before bottling is getting pretty long in my opinion. If it were me, I'd probably do most of the aging in the bottle.
Is this a lager? If it's a lagar, 1 month in the primary doesn't seem as long, but I doubt 2 months in the secondary will add anything.

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david_42

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Bulk aging of big beers, like winter warmers, does make a difference. One can always add a packet of dry yeast to the bottling bucket, but I've kegged big beers at 3 months, primed them, and they carbonate just fine.

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brian_g

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Do you think it's an improvement over bottle aging? Logically, I don't see why it would make a difference, except that it may be sitting on a larger yeast bed then in the bottles.

In any case, as long as the poster knows to add yeast. I had one batch, where I added yeast before bottling. What I did was rehydrate the yeast with a couple of teaspoons of sugar, just to wake them up and get them going before pitching them into beer. I don't know if it was necessary, but it made me feel better anyway.

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Marko73

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This isn't a lager, it is a high gravity winter ale. Here is the description:

Winter Ale: Winter ales are designed to warm you from the inside as well as give audience to a host of unique flavors and spices. Caraway lends a subtle complex note to this dark, high gravity ale. Plan on brewing this one 4-6 months in advance of your target release date for a proper maturation. Our ingredients for this recipe include: 6 lb. Dark liquid malt extract, 3.3 lb. Gold liquid malt extract, 4 oz. Carafa II, 8 oz. Munich, 8 oz. Cara Wheat, 4 oz. Chocolate Rye, 4 oz. Melanoidin specialty grains, ½ tsp Caraway, 2 oz. of hops, priming sugar, muslin bag, and yeast.

I am not sure if that helps any, but I guess I would wonder about adding the yeast before bottling. Would I add another 11 gram Nottingham packet? That is the yeast I would be using for primary fermentation. I just wouldn't want to cause excess pressure with an active fermentation.

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Nurmey

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I so agree with David on bulk aging. For some reason aging in bulk gives you a better flavor as well as more consistent flavor between bottles.

I've aged for 6 to 8 months many times and never had to add yeast to carbonate.

Marko, do not add a whole packet of yeast. Remember that you only need a grain or two per bottle to carbonate. Once when I aged a beer for 18 months, I added about 2.5 grams of yeast just to be sure.

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Marko73

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Thanks Nurmey. I figured just a sprinkle would do it. Thanks for the clarification.

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"Work is the curse of the drinking class."
-Oscar Wilde