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02-02-2012, 12:54 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Seaside, OR
Posts: 71
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Newbie observations and questions
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So I just finished brewing my first batch of beer and I thought I would share some observations and ask a question or two.
I brewed in the house and the house smells like a brewery. Not that it is good or bad, it just does.
I had an epiphany when we finished the steeping of the specialty grains and opened the bottle of LME and they smelled the same. It was one of those Ah Ha moments for a new brewer.
From start to finish took nearly 3.5 hours. The cooling of the wort took less time than expected. I had 3 gals of brewing liquid and use an ice bath followed by a few fresh sinks of cold water. From boil to 80 deg took 20 minutes.
SG came out perfect for the Autumn Amber from Midwest at 1.043. Using muntons dry yeast.
Feel free to ask questions.
I have one. It takes ~20 minutes to get to steeping temp. Then 30-40 minutes steeping. Then you add LME and take it to boil. Another 25 minutes there. Then boil for an hour.
So my question is....Can you boil the hops in a separate pot, then add it to the steeped and mixed malt liquid or is there something about boiling the malt with the hops that makes it come out different?
If it can be done separately, then an hour of brew time can be saved. 
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02-02-2012, 01:18 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 995
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Pretty certain that you need to boil the hops with the malt products. I have yet to see anyone discuss saving time by doing otherwise.
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Homebrew Dad - blogging about making my own beer and raising a lot of kids
Primary: enpty
Secondary: Imperial nut brown ale
Bottled: Yorkshire square brown ale, Leffe Blonde clone
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02-02-2012, 02:21 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Seaside, OR
Posts: 71
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So I did a bit more searching on here and I started reading about late extract additions. Isn't this similar to what I was asking? What am I missing?
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02-02-2012, 02:26 AM
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#4
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Arrogant Bastard Clone
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 3,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TsunamiBeer
So I did a bit more searching on here and I started reading about late extract additions. Isn't this similar to what I was asking? What am I missing?
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with a late extract add, you'll want to add half of the extract late or at flameout. you'll still want some extract in the boil when you add your hops. if you move up to partial mash, very similar to extract but with some base malt (2 or 6 row, etc.) in the steep with the specialty grains, you could then add all of your extract late or at flameout. check out the link i posted for more info on partial mash brewing.
__________________
The Polk Street Brewery
Brew Blog
Primary: Honey Weizen (a ,Midwest kit), Columbus IPA
Secondary: No. 3 Burton, RIS
Bottled: Simcoe IPA, Northern English Brown
Kegged: German Alt, Octane IPA
Give a man beer and his thirst is quenched. Teach a man to brew and it will never be again.
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02-02-2012, 03:12 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Seaside, OR
Posts: 71
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Partial mash doesn't seem too different than what I am doing now, just the shift from extract with specialty grains to more of the malt from base grains as well. Why wouldn't someone make that leap? Doesn't seem like it would take any longer or be more complicated...
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02-02-2012, 03:19 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TsunamiBeer
Partial mash doesn't seem too different than what I am doing now, just the shift from extract with specialty grains to more of the malt from base grains as well. Why wouldn't someone make that leap? Doesn't seem like it would take any longer or be more complicated...
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There is a little more sensitivity; You have to watch how much water you use, and at what temperature, etc.
That being said, i agree with you as to why not make this jump; my third brew will almost certainly be a partial mash.
__________________
Homebrew Dad - blogging about making my own beer and raising a lot of kids
Primary: enpty
Secondary: Imperial nut brown ale
Bottled: Yorkshire square brown ale, Leffe Blonde clone
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02-02-2012, 03:23 AM
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#7
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← Huge Member →
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 9,714
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I see no reason why you can't boil your hops separately. In fact, because of the lower density of the water you might get better utilization.
Unless there is a pH effect, I think it's fine. Go ahead, make your own path. We all have to, this hobby is still somewhat of a jungle.
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Nag Champa FTW. Mmmm.
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02-02-2012, 03:29 AM
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#8
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Border town brewer
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 2,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TsunamiBeer
So my question is....Can you boil the hops in a separate pot, then add it to the steeped and mixed malt liquid or is there something about boiling the malt with the hops that makes it come out different?
If it can be done separately, then an hour of brew time can be saved. 
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Hops have to be boiled with the malt to get the proper hop utilization and bittering. Proper bittering usually requires hops to be boiled with the malt for at least 60 mins to actually do the job. That's why pretty much all beer has to be boiled for at least an hour.. As far as making the jump to partial mash, there really is nothing to it. For that matter with a little extra equipment you could make the jump to all grain via BIAB (brew in a bag technique)..
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02-02-2012, 03:36 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Seaside, OR
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stauffbier
Hops have to be boiled with the malt to get the proper hop utilization and bittering. Proper bittering usually requires hops to be boiled with the malt for at least 60 mins to actually do the job. That's why pretty much all beer has to be boiled for at least an hour.. As far as making the jump to partial mash, there really is nothing to it. For that matter with a little extra equipment you could make the jump to all grain via BIAB (brew in a bag technique)..
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Not to belabor the point, but how much is the right amount of malt that has to be in there for it to happen correctly? People are using late additions, so that much must not be necessary. So is the amount half? If so, then in a partial mash, you could put your DME/LME in with your hops and boil that while your mash is happening on your grains. Mix the two and away you go. If it is a pH issue, then why don't we measure pH to ensure proper bittering, or do we just GUESS that we are getting correct utilization.
I understand this is chemistry and there are reactions happeneing, just trying to make sure I have the right ones working. 
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02-02-2012, 03:40 AM
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#10
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Border town brewer
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 2,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TsunamiBeer
Not to belabor the point, but how much is the right amount of malt that has to be in there for it to happen correctly? People are using late additions, so that much must not be necessary. So is the amount half? If so, then in a partial mash, you could put your DME/LME in with your hops and boil that while your mash is happening on your grains. Mix the two and away you go. If it is a pH issue, then why don't we measure pH to ensure proper bittering, or do we just GUESS that we are getting correct utilization.
I understand this is chemistry and there are reactions happeneing, just trying to make sure I have the right ones working. 
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If you're using only LME then do half at 60 mins and half at 15 mins (or at flameout, I've tried both).. If you are using DME and LME then do the DME at 60 mins and LME at 15 mins or flameout...
For partial mash I would do the mash runnings at 60 mins with the DME and LME at 15 mins or flameout..
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