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Old 09-12-2009, 03:26 AM   #21
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Not sure what extract vs. mini mash is as well as DME
Extract brewing utilizes only malt extract in either dry or liquid form to provide the fermentables for the yeast.

A mini mash involves steeping/mashing a small portion of grains to supplement the fermentables as well as extracting flavor/coloring characteristics from specialty grains.

The next step would be mashing all of your grain (and using NO extract) to produce all of your fermentables.

DME is Dry Malt Extract, although I think there is a more technical term
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:32 PM   #22
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I assume I don't need a cold pack for dry yeast? or should i?


IS yeast fuel recommended?

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Old 09-13-2009, 09:03 PM   #23
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I like many different beers. I really like IPA's but am the only one that does so I want something that everyone will be able to enjoy.

I was thinking this may be good - Austin Homebrew Supply

I am unsure what else I would need or if I should go for something that is simpler?

Not sure what extract vs. mini mash is as well as DME
do what ever youd like,but I would recommend extract with specialty/steeping grains for your first brew.. mini mash is half extract and half mashing the grains(extracting the sugars).DME is dry malt extract.Good luck and welcome to the hobby/addiction!
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:11 PM   #24
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I assume I don't need a cold pack for dry yeast? or should i?


IS yeast fuel recommended?
No cold pack for dry yeast, and you don't need yeast fuel either.
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:27 PM   #25
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Can I do a full 5 gallon boil on a gas stovetop and not need a wort chiller? Will it take too long to cool without a wort chiller?

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Old 09-16-2009, 05:47 PM   #26
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What size pot do you have? I can't take credit, but someone on here said they freeze water bottles and then on brew day, sanitize them and drop them in the wort to chill it. In addition if you could spin the brew kettle in the ice water bath (without aggitating the wort too much), this would speed chill time also.

You need a quick chill to form the cold break. Even an ice bath with 3 gal is going to have a hard time chilling fast enough. Are there any other concerns with chiling quickly? The only othre reason I can think of is to go ahead and pitch yeast quickly to ward off infection, but those who know about "no-chill"
brewing can answer to that concern.

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Old 09-16-2009, 06:55 PM   #27
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7 gallon pot

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Old 09-16-2009, 09:09 PM   #28
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Also, will any of these chemicals significantly alter the taste of the beer -chlorine, fluoride, and aluminum sulfate?

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Old 09-17-2009, 03:29 AM   #29
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Howdy, hope ya dont mind another quick newbies question. Ive been hearing from some people that you should get a new yeast pack if you get one form an extract kit. I kinda figure even if a few are alive, once they start multiplying it wont be much of a problem. Any input would be awsome.

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Old 09-17-2009, 04:56 AM   #30
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my wife and i just brewed our first batch. When i was trying to decide what to get i got the advice to pick something similar to what i knew well so i could discern the differences... probably more for clone beers, but anyway, i chose this kit from austin homebrew...
Austin Homebrew Supply
For you texas boys it's supposed to be close to shiner (not their clone). my brother did the shiner clone last month so i thought i'd see what this was like. I used the White Labs liquid yeast and decided to try the yeast fuel (although it was recommended to uncap capsule and pour in powder because the capsule doesn't always completely dissolve). I had no problems, and had a lot of fun. I think i got my wife hooked... she even wants me to build a kegerator! My newbie advice would be to plan out your steps in advance and make sure to have a timer available.... have equipment laid out where you need it. I'm sure whatever you get you'll have fun and enjoy.

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