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Old 03-14-2012, 10:29 PM   #3691
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Originally Posted by grouperdude
why does mr beer always taste like yeast?
How long do you let it condition? The longer you let it sit the better it gets. Once in a while I pick up a Mr beer kit, they clarance then at the local home store. I have found that I'd let it sit for about 4weeks after bottling and it taste better.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:38 PM   #3692
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Originally Posted by grouperdude View Post
why does mr beer always taste like yeast?
a. You are pouring the entire bottle into the glass.

b. You are not fermenting long enough.

c. You are not conditioning enough.

d. You don't like the taste of the fromunda yeast, try another.

e. all the above.
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:52 PM   #3693
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Try a different yeast, s-05 has been working well for me and seems to form a more compact sediment. Can usually pour the entire bottle gently and still have clear beer.

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Old 03-15-2012, 09:46 PM   #3694
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You can also cold crash it before bottling.
Set it in the fridge for 2 days before bottling; most of the yeast will fall out of suspension.
Bottle from the spigot on level ground as instructed and toss out the bottom.

The beer will still be a "living" beer as in not everything will fall out. Try some unfiltered bottle conditioned commercial beers and see if you get the same "yeasty" taste.

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Old 03-15-2012, 11:22 PM   #3695
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I've decided that I really don't like the Mr. Beer's unregulated airlock. Aside from being a little bit jury rigged, would there be any problem with using a little silicone or the like to seal up the notches, then punch a hole in the lid, add a grommet, and use a regular air lock?

I really don't like the fact that once fermentation has stopped, there's nothing stopping changing air pressure from pushing oxygen into the keg.

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Old 03-16-2012, 01:16 AM   #3696
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You would need to use some real food grade silicon like GE Silicone 2 at $5-$7 a tube.
If you use the cheap acrylic stuff it will shrink over time and you don't want that in your beer.

I would seek out an alternative container rather than messing with it.
Look for containers with recycle code 1 and they are everywhere; Minute Maid OJ, V8 Juice, ect...

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Old 03-16-2012, 02:04 PM   #3697
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RingoShoe,
i started with a MrB myself, and had similar concerns about the lack of airlock, and after one brew, (even before it was completely fermented) had gotten a 2 gallon brew bucket from northern brewer (roughly $6) and had my second brew going in it.

I am limited on space that i can devote to brewing, small house, small kitchen, and brewing small batches works the best for me. I'm getting 1.5gallon yields from my 2 gallon buckets, and have two or 3 going at a time, so i have a wide variety of homebrews at any given time.

happy brewing!

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Old 03-16-2012, 05:26 PM   #3698
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I've already acquired a couple of buckets to insist in my other endeavors, but I hate to waste a perfectly good tool when all it needs is just a little modification (and I have a Tim Taylor-esque drive to 'fix' things like that... )

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Old 03-16-2012, 05:56 PM   #3699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringoshoe View Post
I've decided that I really don't like the Mr. Beer's unregulated airlock. Aside from being a little bit jury rigged, would there be any problem with using a little silicone or the like to seal up the notches, then punch a hole in the lid, add a grommet, and use a regular air lock?

I really don't like the fact that once fermentation has stopped, there's nothing stopping changing air pressure from pushing oxygen into the keg.
Have you actually used it yet?
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:41 PM   #3700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringoshoe View Post
I've already acquired a couple of buckets to insist in my other endeavors, but I hate to waste a perfectly good tool when all it needs is just a little modification (and I have a Tim Taylor-esque drive to 'fix' things like that... )
Considering how well that always seemed to work for the tool man, I'd say you should consider carefully whether you want to "fix" something that isn't broken.
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