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Old 02-12-2012, 08:20 PM   #3491
bpgreen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyx View Post
Question about a recipe modification I have thought out...
Looking to brew the Junkyard Dog IPA from Mr. Beer.
-----
Junk Yard Dog IPA
MAKES APPROX. 2 GALLONS OF BEER IN ABOUT 3 WEEKS TIME.
Suggested lager time is 2 to 3 months.

Beware the junk yard dog, he may sneak up and bite you when you're not looking. Like the mongrel that bears its name, the junk yard has some of everything thrown in. But given patience and time, this junk yard will ultimately reveal to you the treasure of its taste.

RECIPE INCLUDES:
1 Can Englishman's Nut-Brown Ale
1 Can Pale Export UME
1 Pouch Booster™
1 Packet Dry Brewing Yeast (under lid of beer mix)
1 Packet Northern Brewer Pellet Hops
1 Packet Centennial Pellet Hops
2 Muslin Hop Sacks
1 Packet One-Step™ Sanitizing Cleanser

YOU PR0VIDE:
1 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
-------

It seems like there is a lot of sugar in this recipe though. Could I replace the booster with a can of Mellow Amber UME or would that change the beer away from an IPA too much? Unfortunately, I don't have a spare can of Pale Export UME sitting around, but the last beer I used the booster in tastes sort of cidery(it's young though).

Also, I have 1 oz of each of the hops asked for instead of the 1/2 ounce generally used and I'm tempted to hop it more... Thoughts?
I'm not big on IPAs, but the original recipe doesn't look much like an IPA to me. I think adding a can of UME would improve it, but you may want to boil some hops with one of the cans of UME and 6-8 cups of water.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:38 PM   #3492
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Thanks Kealia and bpgreen.
And bpgreen, you're totally right about the recipe, when I plug it into beer calculus it seems closest to an American Pale ale or an American Brown (only thing off is the SRM) so maybe I'll just use the can of mellow amber I have and see how it turns out.

Any other thoughts?

[edited for styles]

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Old 02-12-2012, 11:32 PM   #3493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpgreen

It sounds like the beer was over carbonated. How long did you ferment and at what temperature? You may have bottled before fermentation was finished. Do you have a hydrometer?

You may need to ferment longer and/or use less sugar when you prime.

I follow the instructions that come with the kits very closely. I typically add an extra week or two ( for a total of 5-6 weeks ) of fermentation in the keg the warm room temp (70 degrees) storage after bottling for 2-3 weeks and cold storage for 7-10 days.

What is a hydrometer? Lol sorry newbie brewer here.
Thank you for your insights.
Rich
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:48 AM   #3494
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I follow the instructions that come with the kits very closely. I typically add an extra week or two ( for a total of 5-6 weeks ) of fermentation in the keg the warm room temp (70 degrees) storage after bottling for 2-3 weeks and cold storage for 7-10 days.

What is a hydrometer? Lol sorry newbie brewer here.
Thank you for your insights.
Rich
I'm not sure I'm following. An extra week or two in the fermenter would be two to three weeks, not five to six. Or do you mean two to three in the fermenter and two to three in the bottle?

Either way, it should have been long enough that it finished fermenting.

Many people consider the Mr beer recommendations for priming to be too high. You may want to cut back on the amount if priming sugar you use.

A hydrometer measures the specific gravity of a liquid. It can be use to measure the actual amount of alcohol in the . It can also be used to be sure fermentation has finished. When the reading stops dropping and stays the same for three consecutive days, you know fermentation has stopped.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:57 AM   #3495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpgreen

I'm not sure I'm following. An extra week or two in the fermenter would be two to three weeks, not five to six. Or do you mean two to three in the fermenter and two to three in the bottle?

Either way, it should have been long enough that it finished fermenting.

Many people consider the Mr beer recommendations for priming to be too high. You may want to cut back on the amount if priming sugar you use.

A hydrometer measures the specific gravity of a liquid. It can be use to measure the actual amount of alcohol in the . It can also be used to be sure fermentation has finished. When the reading stops dropping and stays the same for three consecutive days, you know fermentation has stopped.
What I normally do when brewing is this:
6-8 weeks total (mr. Beer says 3-4)
3-4 in the keg. ( mr beer 2-3)
2 weeks room temp (mr beer 7 days)
and 7-10 days cold. (mr beer 7 days)

I'll try cutting back on the sugar for the next one though. I appreciate the tips and am sorry I was confusing in r total weeks thing. If you have anything else as far as tips I'm all ears. As I said I'm a newbie still.
Rich
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:16 AM   #3496
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Just tasted my WCPA after one week of fermenting. Very sweet still.... but I will give it another week then taste it again.... made me excited though its my first brew I could taste and smell the beer a lot but still sweet. Can't wait!

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Old 02-13-2012, 03:16 AM   #3497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jig View Post
Hi, I just joined the forums. I had a question about home brewing. Well it's more of a dilemma I suppose.

I have done 3 home brews using Mr. Beer kits.
1st- Scottish Wee Heavy which turned out pretty good for the first home brew effort. My buddies and I enjoyed it and it came out ok.
2nd oatmeal stout- came out way too heady. When I popped it, it overflowed like it was shaken up and when I poured it, the head was over1/2 the pint glass. Taste was ok though.
3rd pumpkin ale- same problem with the head.

Question... What might be causing the excess headiness?

My next beer is going to be a coffee beer, and I wanted to try to fix this issue.
Thanks,
Jig

Ps- you cam pm me if you don't want to clog the boards. Thanks
so you followed the instructions to the letter, with only a n extra week or two in primary - totally reasonable.
do you use a priming calculator such as tastybrew or equivalent? these calculators account for the residual CO2 that develops the longer you leave a beer in a fermentation chamber prior to bottling. if so then i don't have a clue what you're doing to cause such unruly head issues (heh). if not, then i suggest giving them a try. it is very possible (this happened to me as i do lengthy primaries) that the amount of priming sugar called for in the MrB instructions simply created too much CO2 given the residual quantity already dissolved into the beer from your lengthy primary. the MrB priming instructions are very one dimensional, with my first few brews they were WAY over carbed and the head was massive, although quick to dissipate.
good luck with your dilemma!!!
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:23 AM   #3498
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Just a quick question about the mr beer bottling process.

I don't know a whole lot about brewing so bare with me. Once the beer ferments in the fermentor for a few weeks, when I transfer it to the bottles is that considered the secondary fermentor or if that is even needed for the standard mr beer recipe?

Also I know adding sugar causes for the beer to carbonate, which is called priming or conditioning? I also heard that carbonating in bottle isn't as good as other methods. What are those methods (I don't have a keg)?

Sorry if these are ridiculous questions. I'm just trying to figure it all out. I just started and I don't want to start with bad habits that will need to be unlearned later.

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Old 02-13-2012, 10:35 AM   #3499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagalaxy View Post
Just a quick question about the mr beer bottling process.

I don't know a whole lot about brewing so bare with me. Once the beer ferments in the fermentor for a few weeks, when I transfer it to the bottles is that considered the secondary fermentor or if that is even needed for the standard mr beer recipe?
Nope. A secondary is another fermentor. It is rarely necessary, and not at all necessary for MrB recipes.

The other way to carbonate is to use artificial carbon dioxide from another source. Without a keg or a soda bottle adaptor (such as http://www.fizzgiz.com/, but there are others), you cannot carbonate artificially, to my knowledge. I suppose you could try the old baking-soda-and-vinegar method (
), but I wouldn't personally.

Quote:
Also I know adding sugar causes for the beer to carbonate, which is called priming or conditioning? I also heard that carbonating in bottle isn't as good as other methods. What are those methods (I don't have a keg)?
Adding sugar to the beer before bottling is called "priming". You are priming the beer for carbonation, by giving fermentable sugars to the yeast still in the beer. They eat the sugar and create a slight additional amount of alcohol in addition to the carbon dioxide, which is what you are really after by that step.

If there are still sugars left from the primary fermentation (in the MrB keg) then you will have too much sugar, hence too much carbon dioxide, hence too much carbonation.

Quote:
Sorry if these are ridiculous questions. I'm just trying to figure it all out. I just started and I don't want to start with bad habits that will need to be unlearned later.
No biggie. That's what the board is for.
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Last edited by Justibone; 02-13-2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: carbonation links
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:39 AM   #3500
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I have found the mr beer priming amounts to be almost twice what they should be. That is a likely source for your bottle erupting and being so hady.

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