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Old 03-16-2012, 06:11 PM   #11
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If you're not going to direct fire it at all, set it up as a bottom drain and you'll increase your efficiency quite a bit.

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Old 03-16-2012, 08:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
If you're not going to direct fire it at all, set it up as a bottom drain and you'll increase your efficiency quite a bit.
What are you referring to when you say bottom drain? Sorry for all the questions just trying to figure out the best path to take. For now if I do the insulation I would have the false bottom along with the ball valve and thermometer that I will need later on down the road anyways right?

Weizenheimer thanks for the information! I think that is the route that I plan on taking for now, until I decide when it is time to up the brewery and do a RIMS or HERMS. For now though, the insulation sounds like the better route for my skill level.


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Old 03-16-2012, 10:09 PM   #13
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I have a 5 gallon igloo cooler with a ball valve installed. About 35 bucks. Best brewing investment yet. I can mash up to 12lbs of grain. I don't have any experience with keggles but I'm sure they rock!

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Old 03-16-2012, 11:19 PM   #14
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I got a rubber-coated keg that I'm converting to a bottom-drain MLT

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Old 01-15-2013, 08:01 PM   #15
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Do you guys suggest a false bottom or a bazooka tube in a keggle mash tun?

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Old 01-16-2013, 05:13 PM   #16
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I've used a bazooka tube that was custom made for hugging the bottom contour (and included a low point dip tube) and it worked great for using it as a passive vessel. However, if you think you're going to put a flame under it, you can't have grain sitting on the bottom like that. In that case, you need a full false bottom and need to recirculate while heating.

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Old 01-17-2013, 03:02 PM   #17
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I'd like to have as many options possible so the false bottom sounds like the route to go. Do you have a reccomendation on what size to use? I see a few different sizes and shapes out there.

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