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Old 11-12-2011, 03:50 AM   #1
cookmysock
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Default Mash temp too high - what effects?

Set my mash temp in software at 68 deg C (154F). Strike water came from the software at 75C (167F). I preheated the mash tun (a cooler) for 15 mins with boiling water, dumped it then proceeded to mash.

The strike water was a bit high at 80C (176F), but thought it would drop down during the 40min mash.

Checked a couple of times and at the end of the mash and the temp was a constant 76C (168F) inbstead of the ideal 68C (154F).

What effect will this have on the final beer? Brew was 100% pilsener grain.

Thanks in advance for any input!

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Old 11-12-2011, 03:57 AM   #2
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You'll have fewer fermentable sugars. As the saying goes: M.A.L.T. (More Alcohol, Lower Temperature). And, the opposite is true. You might be able to throw something in to get those numbers up and get a little more dryness out of your beer, but I don't have the expertise to tell you what would work best. Sounds like you at least have a really nice mouthy session beer.

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Old 11-12-2011, 04:19 AM   #3
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You mashed at 168 F. You probably killed the enzymes and didn't get much conversion.

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Old 11-12-2011, 04:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calder View Post
You mashed at 168 F. You probably killed the enzymes and didn't get much conversion.
that would be my thoughts. what was the OG of the wort? what was it supposed to be?
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
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You mashed at 168 F. You probably killed the enzymes and didn't get much conversion.
5 degrees is a huge difference, but ten? Step your game up.
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:59 AM   #6
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Check the wiki http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing


If a single temperature rest for starch conversion is chosen, it needs to allow for sufficient beta and alpha amylase actitiy. This is given at temperatures between 140ºF (60ºC) and 160ºF (70ºC), but only temperatures between 148ºF (65ºC) and 158ºF (69ºC) are commonly used. The higher the temperature the lower the limit of attenuation (fermentability) of the resulting wort will be. The following is a table that lists the relation between temperature and fermentability [Narziss, 2005]:

Temperature 140ºF (60ºC) 149ºF (65ºC) 160ºF (70ºC) 167ºF (75ºC)
apparent limit of attenuation 87.5% 86.5 % 76.8% 54.0 %

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Old 11-12-2011, 10:11 AM   #7
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Brewing is a learning process. Make sure to remember the results of when you mash that high. But for next time, pour your strike water into your MLT first and keep taking measurements until the temp is where it should be. Too high? Leave the lid open a few minutes and stir. Too low? Take a little out and heat it, then add it back. Then add your grain. You'll hit your numbers pretty much every time.

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Old 11-12-2011, 11:04 AM   #8
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I based the brew on approx 60% efficiency with an OG og 1.048. Just checked the gravity and ready right on 1.048. I'm beginning to wonder of I misread the thermometer (dial gauge) - time to invest in a digital.

ShakerD - good table there - will be interesting when I measure FG's to see how the attenuation works out.

Bmorebrew - great advice on the temp control in the mash tun (cooler). I have not been doing this and relying on temp reading for strike water straight from the stove.

Final thought - don't rush things! Wife was on my back to head out to a function that we needed to be on time for. Classic reason for making mistakes

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Old 11-12-2011, 12:43 PM   #9
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My experience is that unless you really stir your mash, temperatures will vary quite a bit within the mash. Also, thermometers can be inaccurate over part of their range.

Since you hit your OG, you didn't denature all the enzymes but you may have a bunch of unfermentable sugars in there. Ferment it out and see how it tastes. Get a cheap digital thermometer and when you mash next time use both thermometers and see how they compare. Stir the heck out of your mash before you close the lid of the mash tun.

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Old 11-12-2011, 12:52 PM   #10
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Bring some water up to a boil and see how accurate you're gauge is (assuming it goes that high). If its accurate at 212 is should be pretty close at 170.

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