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Old 02-17-2009, 01:40 PM   #11
llazy_llama
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You should be able to find a 24-28 qt. kettle pretty easily. Granted, they aren't cheap, but they'll work on your stove. It might take longer to bring it to boil, especially if you have an electric range, but it will still work.

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I would never use a dead mouse in my beer. It's much better to use live ones. You could probably just steep a dead one, but live ones must be mashed. Actually, smashed and mashed would be best.
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Old 02-17-2009, 01:45 PM   #12
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A 20 quart pot works great for most indoor extract batches. I would boil 3 1/2 gallons of water for my wort, and use pre-boiled water to make up the rest of the 5 gallon batch.

edit, llama keeps beating me to it.

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Old 02-17-2009, 02:06 PM   #13
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is your stove gas or electric?

It's hard to get full boils going on electric stoves without upgrading the element or insulating the pot. If you have a gas stove though you can straddle 2 burners. I use this method and am able to boil 7 gallons of wort without a problem in my apartment. I have a 32qt brew pot.

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Old 02-17-2009, 02:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by sterling214 View Post
A 20 quart pot works great for most indoor extract batches. I would boil 3 1/2 gallons of water for my wort, and use pre-boiled water to make up the rest of the 5 gallon batch.

edit, llama keeps beating me to it.
Yup, I'm on point this morning. I like to consider myself a JEEP, as oppsed to a FNG. For those not savvy in Air Force slang, JEEP stands for Just Enough Education to Pass, meaning that you're not brand new anymore, but you still need much more training. FNG is F***ing New Guy, which is about as low as you can get while still technically being classified as human.

Since I decided to promote myself out of FNG status, I'm trying to answer as many FNG questions as I can. Takes a bit of the strain off folks like BierMuncher, Revvy, Yooper, etc... who are probably getting pretty sick of answering the same 5 questions over and over.
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I would never use a dead mouse in my beer. It's much better to use live ones. You could probably just steep a dead one, but live ones must be mashed. Actually, smashed and mashed would be best.
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Old 02-17-2009, 02:11 PM   #15
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i have a gas stove and i can try and use two burners to help achieve a fuller boil, it is really going to depend on the pot that i buy but i will work on getting something that will allow me to get as close as possible to doing a full boil.

so in regards to not using the sugars that came with the kit, what is the reasoning behind that. i mean i know that they will work fine, but what differences will i notice when using what you suggested?

also when looking at pots, should i get aluminum, or ss? i know that their are differences and that some people like different ones for different reasons but what works well and is there a reason i should get one over the other

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Old 02-17-2009, 02:19 PM   #16
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When you use sugar, as opposed to DME, you're probably going to end up with a less full-bodied beer. Corn or rice sugar will thin out the beer, and result in less flavor in the finished product. You should (just my opinion, take it at face value) especially consider ditching the rice sugar in exchange for some DME, unless you want to end up with Bud Light. If that's what you're shooting for, then more power to ya. It is my opinion that the beer would taste better with 2 lbs. of Golden Light DME, and it would be better still with an extra can of malt extract instead.

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I would never use a dead mouse in my beer. It's much better to use live ones. You could probably just steep a dead one, but live ones must be mashed. Actually, smashed and mashed would be best.
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Old 02-17-2009, 02:19 PM   #17
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Did I mention that that's just my opinion, and I'm by no means an expert?

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Old 02-17-2009, 02:28 PM   #18
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alright so getting rid of both of my 1 lb bags of sugars and adding some DME sounds like a good idea and will get me a better more flavorful result. so how do i go about buying something like this, what should i be looking for when i am getting either dry malt extract or just another can of malt extract, and how do i impliment them into what i am making, is it just another addition to the wort after i get it to a boil? thanks i appreciate all of you bearing with me, i am a beginner and am absolutely facinated by this.

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Old 02-17-2009, 02:39 PM   #19
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If you have a local homebrew store, try there. If not, there are several excellent websites. Austin Homebrew, Brewmasters Warehouse, Midwest Supplies, etc...

If you use a can of malt extract, I would say use the same kind you already have. If you go DME, you want a lighter extract that will compliment the style of beer you are making. In this case, Golden Light comes to mind. You can add these at the same time you add your can of extract, which of course should be done with the kettle off of the flame. No need to scorch your extract and get all those funny flavors here.

If you have any more questions about your actual brewing process, a very nice man by the name of John Palmer thought it would be a good idea to post an entire book about homebrewing on the internet for all of us newbies. How to Brew - By John Palmer

The first chapter is designed for the new brewer who is standing in his kitchen staring at a bunch of ingredients from a kit, and wondering how the heck he turns all that into beer. Plus, once you have that batch fermenting happily, you can read the whole rest of the book and be prepared for batch # 2.

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I would never use a dead mouse in my beer. It's much better to use live ones. You could probably just steep a dead one, but live ones must be mashed. Actually, smashed and mashed would be best.
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Old 02-17-2009, 02:43 PM   #20
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Most LHBS sell dry extract in either 3lb bags, or bulk out of a bin. This extract would be added at the same time as the extract you already have, weather you decide to go with DME or LME. I personally prefer brewing with DME, but others prefer LME.
I give up. he's all yours llama.

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