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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > lots contradictory information on brewing
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Old 11-22-2006, 02:35 AM   #1
emmpeethree
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Default lots contradictory information on brewing

i've gotten alot of contradictory information and i'm wondering if anyone can help me figure it out.

1. brew kits (ie coopers cans) do not contain enough fermentables to make a well flavoured beer and sugar or preferably dry malt extract should be added to give the beer more alcohol, body and flavour

is this only the case with the coopers kits that recommend adding additional fermentables or all of them? one person even suggested adding TWO of the coopers kits to make a 5 gallon batch. why doesnt coopers just make larger cans if one can is not sufficient to make a batch of beer?

2. conditioning/priming should be done in bottle (powdered sugar or a mixture of warm water/sugar) or sugar should be added fermentor after 2 weeks to give it carbonation and clear it up (2 questions really, should it be done in bottle or fermentor and should it be done with raw sugar or sugar diluted in water)

3. liquid extract should/shouldnot be boiled with other fermentables

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Old 11-22-2006, 02:41 AM   #2
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1. Because it would be too expensive for a lot of people. Malt is more expensive by far than table sugar, or whatever else it is they recommend you add for fermentables. You can add sugar to make a beer with regular beer strength, even if it isn't as good as an all-malt beer.

2a. You can't carbonate in the fermenter, as the carbonation would escape (unless your fermenter is also a keg). You need a closed vessel, i.e. a bottle, to force the CO2 into solution.

2b. You should boil the sugar in a small amount of water for ten minutes to ensure that it is sanitized.

3. I have never heard anyone advise not to boil LME with other fermentables. You might want to add it near the end of the boil for various reasons (lighter color, better hops utilization), but you can absolutely boil LME with whatever other fermentables you are using. NOT, however, any specialty grains (they are never to be boiled).

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Old 11-22-2006, 04:47 AM   #3
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I can't imagine where you are getting all this contradictory information but it sure isn't on this board. First of all if you are new and using coopers kits, I suggest you just follow their directions and make beer. Using any kit as a first time brewer and trying to fiddle with it until you have made a beer and aquired and read John Palmers book "How to Brew" in order to make better beer is in my opinion risky and putting the cart before the horse. John also has an earlier version of his book online and is my first "Bible of Brewing" and it's free.


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1. brew kits (ie coopers cans) do not contain enough fermentables to make a well flavoured beer and sugar or preferably dry malt extract should be added to give the beer more alcohol, body and flavour
is this only the case with the coopers kits that recommend adding additional fermentables or all of them? one person even suggested adding TWO of the coopers kits to make a 5 gallon batch. why doesnt coopers just make larger cans if one can is not sufficient to make a batch of beer?
See above.

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2. conditioning/priming should be done in bottle (powdered sugar or a mixture of warm water/sugar) or sugar should be added fermentor after 2 weeks to give it carbonation and clear it up (2 questions really, should it be done in bottle or fermentor and should it be done with raw sugar or sugar diluted in water)
See previous post and above re: Palmer's Book.

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3. liquid extract should/shouldnot be boiled with other fermentables
Gee, read Palmer's book!
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Old 11-22-2006, 05:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird

3. I have never heard anyone advise not to boil LME with other fermentables. You might want to add it near the end of the boil for various reasons (lighter color, better hops utilization), but you can absolutely boil LME with whatever other fermentables you are using. NOT, however, any specialty grains (they are never to be boiled).
I’ve heard that I should boil this kit anyway… what’s the truth? There’s a lot of misunderstanding about no-boil kits. Boiling is necessary for the brewing process, but these kits have already been boiled! The manufacturer brews the beer (including boiling) all the way up to the point where they could add yeast and ferment it. But instead, they concentrate and can it. So all you need to do is add water to the concentrate, and then add yeast to ferment. The whole point of no-boil kits is to let someone else (professionals) do the dirty work!

You won’t “improve” a no-boil kit by boiling it. Anyone who says you need to boil doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Blind taste tests by different manufacturers, using experienced brewers and trained tasters, have proven that no-boil kits actually come out somewhat better without re-boiling them. Re-boiling is over-boiling!

from: http://www.annapolishomebrew.com/INSTnoboil.asp
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:15 AM   #5
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Hey man, calm down, Here, have a dancing banana you asked some questions and we are trying to help. If you want to find out for yourself what you like, brew two beers with the same kit, boil one and not the other, try and compare. That would be the best way to find out what you prefer. I always boil, but thats because I always add hops to extract kits. Boiling hops for bitterness and flavor is neccesary. And don't forget Relax, Don't worry, Hava a homebrew

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Old 11-22-2006, 06:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmpeethree
You won’t “improve” a no-boil kit by boiling it. Anyone who says you need to boil doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Blind taste tests by different manufacturers, using experienced brewers and trained tasters, have proven that no-boil kits actually come out somewhat better without re-boiling them. Re-boiling is over-boiling!
The point isn't in improving the quality of the beer through application of heat, it's sanitation. Generally, tap water has some bacteria in it. Boiling it kills any contaminants and leaves you with a sanitary environment, so long as you take care of it after cooling. Were I to do a no-boil kit, I would bring my water to a boil for about 10 minutes, kill the heat, and add the contents of the kit while the water is still hot. The hot water will quickly dissolve the extract, and I could even use it to rinse the cans of all their syrupy goodness. Then I'd cool it quickly, carefully transfer it to my sanitized fermenter, aerate, and pitch.
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:32 AM   #7
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Most of the point of not boiling "no boil hopped canned kits" is to retain the sparse hop character of the kit. It really isn't nesessary to boil to make the beer, but rather as was said, to boil to sterilize/sanitize the water.

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Old 11-22-2006, 12:08 PM   #8
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Well, no-boil kits are quite a bit different from "regular" homebrewing, which means that the information on them will vary quite a bit.

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Old 11-22-2006, 02:55 PM   #9
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Price in very important to many people, as mentioned.

Having done exactly two canned no-boil kits (they were free), they both said you could boil them to increase the bitterness. They both had hops in them, not just hop extracts and oils. There are no-boil kits which only have hops extracts and oils, other than sanitation there is no reason to boil them.

The first "beer" I made was with a BrewSack: pour in boiling water, cool, add yeast. Let it ferment, dump down drain.

Bottom line: There are more ways to homebrew than there are homebrewers. Anyone who needs an absolute, invariant approach, probably needs to stick to store bought or only purchase one style of one kit from one manufacturer and follow the directions exactly.

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Old 11-22-2006, 03:27 PM   #10
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If your still confused after everything is said and done, let me know.....Its easy to get intimidated about this stuff but its much simpler then you might imagine......

What gets complicated are all the fine details like, how would this ingredient change my beers taste? Or troubleshooting a problem that comes out of the blue but as far as your basic beer goes, its not that complicated....

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