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Old 08-11-2009, 12:32 AM   #1
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Default Late extraction addition on Partial boil IPA

Hi all,
Feeling brave after a successful 1st batch, I researched a DFH 60min IPA clone. Bought the ingredients, but later realized it called for a full boil, which I cannot do. However doing a partial boil I have read will cut the IBU in half, so I opted to do a partial boil with a late extract addition(with LME) to keep the hops in the ballpark. I added 2lbs at the start of the boil and the last 4lbs with 15min remaining in the boil. I hopped (constantly!) as the recipe called for, but I'm a bit worried about my late malt addition. I'd rather sacrifice color over hop flavor, but I'm worried I may have been too brave going against the recipe.

Anyway, after fermenting for a week(started around 72, but cooled to 68), I racked it to my secondary yesterday and it looked more like Hefe than IPA. Light and murky indeed. Even more murky now that I've added hops for dry hopping. I'm planning on keeping it in the secondary for at least two weeks. Will that be enough to settle out?
Any advice or comments would be welcome.

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Old 08-11-2009, 12:35 AM   #2
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Hi all,
Feeling brave after a successful 1st batch, I researched a DFH 60min IPA clone. Bought the ingredients, but later realized it called for a full boil, which I cannot do. However doing a partial boil I have read will cut the IBU in half, so I opted to do a partial boil with a late extract addition(with LME) to keep the hops in the ballpark. I added 2lbs at the start of the boil and the last 4lbs with 15min remaining in the boil. I hopped (constantly!) as the recipe called for, but I'm a bit worried about my late malt addition. I'd rather sacrifice color over hop flavor, but I'm worried I may have been too brave going against the recipe.

Anyway, after fermenting for a week(started around 72, but cooled to 68), I racked it to my secondary yesterday and it looked more like Hefe than IPA. Light and murky indeed. Even more murky now that I've added hops for dry hopping. I'm planning on keeping it in the secondary for at least two weeks. Will that be enough to settle out?
Any advice or comments would be welcome.
You've already added the dryhops? I like to add the dryhops only about 5-7 days before I bottle. Normally, I let the beer settle out before dryhopping. I don't like keeping my dryhops in the carboy with the beer for more than about 7 days, 10 at the most.

I'm not sure why you're "murky" but it should clear up with a little time.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:39 AM   #3
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Hey Yooperbrew,
I read all your posts about the late addition, so thanks for all your indirect advice!
So, since I've added the hops way too early, what will that do to the final brew? Longer time in the bottle maybe?

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Old 08-11-2009, 12:41 AM   #4
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Hey Yooperbrew,
I read all your posts about the late addition, so thanks for all your indirect advice!
So, since I've added the hops way too early, what will that do to the final brew? Longer time in the bottle maybe?
No, I'd just rack out of there in no more than 14 days. You can rack to another carboy if you're not planning on bottling right away. I think that the hops aroma tastes "fresher" if you dryhop right before bottling.

Also, I've heard people say that leaving the beer on the dry hops too long can cause "grassy" flavors. I haven't experienced that, but I only dryhop for a week to 10 days. I wait until about a week before I want to keg or bottle, and then dryhop.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:42 AM   #5
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I dryhopped a beer and then didn't get to bottle when I planned on. Eventually I racked it to a tertiary fermenter until I could bottle. The one drawback is that I likely lost some of the aroma from the dry hop while it was in tertiary. The beer came out great, but I'm sure the aroma would've been better if I'd bottled on time. You could try that if you start pushing the envelope on your dry hop time but really need more time to clear.

One question... what type of yeast did you use? Some aren't as flocculent as others so they take longer to clear up.

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Old 08-11-2009, 12:52 AM   #6
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One question... what type of yeast did you use? Some aren't as flocculent as others so they take longer to clear up.
I used Safale US-05. Just sprinkled on top on closed it up....Did not hydrate, but I did notice it took about 48 hours to begin bubbling
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:57 AM   #7
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I used Safale US-05. Just sprinkled on top on closed it up....Did not hydrate, but I did notice it took about 48 hours to begin bubbling
Ahh, I usually have great results with that yeast falling out of suspension and creating a good cake on the bottom when it's done. Are you sure it was done before you transferred to secondary? Were you at your expected FG and steady for a few days?
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:01 AM   #8
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I used Safale US-05. Just sprinkled on top on closed it up....Did not hydrate, but I did notice it took about 48 hours to begin bubbling
I've used US-05 a few times for American IPA's, and I've never had a clear beer with it. I've also had a number of commercial IPA's that haven't been clear either, so I'm not too worried. I usually use WLP002, or Wyeast 1968. They both produce exceptionally clear beers, but wouldn't be right for an IPA.
As for dry hopping, I usually dry hop for 10 - 14 days because that's how long it takes for the hops to settle out, and I haven't noticed any grassy flavors. However, I usually use English hops which may behave differently than American.

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Old 08-11-2009, 01:43 PM   #9
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If you are forced to do a partial boil and want to keep the IBUs up for an IPA, just boil half of your bittering hops in the top-off water the night before. If you can chill the top-off water, so much the better.

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Old 08-11-2009, 07:39 PM   #10
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I dry hopped for 26 days once. The beer tasted great though, not grassy as expected.

Chances are the dry hops will fall out of suspension taking the majority of the yeast with it resulting in a clear brew.

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