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Old 04-17-2008, 01:13 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by bluedragoon85
Ok, I think I kinda get it. There is some conflicting information, but from what I understand, it would be a good idea to do the 45 min. boil, then turn of gas, add rest of LME, start flame and immediately add my 15 min addition hops? or wait till it starts boiling again and then add the 15 min hops? The hop addition seems to conflict with the boil since the late adition calls to add the rest of the LME at the same time when I should add the hops...
In this scenario, when you turn off the heat and add the remaining malt and hops you do not need to bring it to a boil again.

Hops at 15 mins only adds flavor whether you steep it or boil it.

Since the wort was previously boiling the malt and hops will be pasteurized by the time it's dissolved.


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Old 04-17-2008, 01:18 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Laurel
I doubt that these recipes were formulated without knowledge of how the various components and times would affect the final outcome. By "proceed as normal,"
the context would imply that the LME (syrup) was added, and then the hops were added at the regular intervals. What maked DME better, and what's the conversion rate?
Let me try to understand your questions...

I understand your comment about the recipe formulation so there's nothing to comment on.

What makes DME better? It's lighter for one. It's always lighter (in color) than LME. I use Extra Light DME as my base malt. Boiling 1 lb in 1.5 gal of water brings the gravity to about 1.040-1.045 which is like a middle of the road gravity for hop bitterness extraction.

I don't understand the part about the conversion rate. Does DME have one?


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Old 04-17-2008, 02:29 PM   #13
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I think he means from LME to DME. Since LME is 20% water, you use less DME. So use 20% less DME compared to LME.
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Old 04-17-2008, 02:46 PM   #14
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In this scenario, when you turn off the heat and add the remaining malt and hops you do not need to bring it to a boil again.

Hops at 15 mins only adds flavor whether you steep it or boil it.

Since the wort was previously boiling the malt and hops will be pasteurized by the time it's dissolved.
Thanks! this is primarily the kind of answer I was looking for my question . I will be brewing a AHS ESB today and I will try the late extract method as you and others have outlined. Wish me best of luck!
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by homebrewer_99
Let me try to understand your questions...

I understand your comment about the recipe formulation so there's nothing to comment on.

What makes DME better? It's lighter for one. It's always lighter (in color) than LME. I use Extra Light DME as my base malt. Boiling 1 lb in 1.5 gal of water brings the gravity to about 1.040-1.045 which is like a middle of the road gravity for hop bitterness extraction.

I don't understand the part about the conversion rate. Does DME have one?
Thanks for the input. Willy had it right, since LME has water in it, I knew there had to be a conversion of some sort. Suppose one doesn't care about the color of the beer. Is there a compelling reason to use DME besides color?
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:37 PM   #16
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There is less chance of the extract "twang" taste since DME stores better than LME, unless of course you know the LME is fresh.
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:59 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Laurel
Thanks for the input. Willy had it right, since LME has water in it, I knew there had to be a conversion of some sort. Suppose one doesn't care about the color of the beer. Is there a compelling reason to use DME besides color?
Yeah, what Willy Boner said...LME has more twang to it. I use Extra Light DME as a base for all my brews.

That said, if you can I would recommend you switch to DME as soon as you are out of the LME.

Sorry about misunderstanding the conversion. In a nutshell it's:

1 lb of grain = .75 lb LME = .6 lb DME.

Bluedragoon85: Since I only boil 1.5 gals (base wort is: 1.5 gals water boiled with 1 lb of Extra Light DME) I place 4 gal of PUR filtered tap water in the freezer for 4-5 hours prior to brewing and use it to top off to 5.25 gals. I've been doing this for a very long time without any bad effects. I also have a nylon bucket net that I place on my primary bucket to catch the hops and then I sparge/rinse them with 1 gal of top off water then remove the net...and top off. Most of the time the wort drops below 70F, sometimes colder.

Keeping your base wort down to about 1.040 gravity allows you to use a little less hops in the boil. For my Weizens I only use 3AAs.


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