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Old 06-10-2013, 02:40 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by KeystoneHomebrew View Post
For all my beers, I do a two keg transfer. Keg the beer as normal, but instead of carbing let it sit cold for a few days or a week. Then hook up a beer line from "out" to "out" onto a fresh keg. All I do is leave the receiving disconnect off and pour a pint. Then attach it back and hook it onto the fresh keg. Hook up the gas and let it rip.

It is a very similar process to how breweries cold crash beer in their tanks. You can also use this process to clean your kegs. Pumping over cleaning/sanitizing solution to knock them all out at once.
That's a cool process. Although if I'm transferring between kegs I might as well filter with a 5 micron and get all the junk out.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:15 AM   #12
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I used 3.5oz of centennial hops for dry hopping. One tab of whirlfloc in a 2.5gal boil. The transfer to keg, well....I explained that in my OP.
Let it sit for a week in the fridge @35 dump first 6oz, itll have tons of nutrients/yeast if you want to drink it (what i do) wait another day, pour a pint and after that you should be fine.

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That's a cool process. Although if I'm transferring between kegs I might as well filter with a 5 micron and get all the junk out.
Exactly, if you want to go this far you can, but with proper fining agents and TIME beer will clear...given its not a hefeweizen or wit.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:16 PM   #13
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How long was your primary/secondary(dry hop)? Most of my beers are rather clear after a week or two, a third week and they are very clear, even IPA's. The key is racking from at least 1 inch above the trub layer on the bottom and then tipping/lowering to get all the clear beer and none of the debris. When you bottle carb do you have a large layer of debris in the bottoms?

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Old 06-10-2013, 02:56 PM   #14
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How long was your primary/secondary(dry hop)? Most of my beers are rather clear after a week or two, a third week and they are very clear, even IPA's. The key is racking from at least 1 inch above the trub layer on the bottom and then tipping/lowering to get all the clear beer and none of the debris. When you bottle carb do you have a large layer of debris in the bottoms?
I had the beer in primary for 3 weeks then racked to secondary with dry hops for 5 days. The hops was still on top and they began to fall in the middle of racking to the keg. I thought the hop sack on the siphon would help but it kept getting clogged. I think with my next batch I will allow the hops to fall first then wait a day or so before transferring to the keg. The batch I have fermenting now also is an IPA. I am on an IPA kick right now

As far as cold crashing...I don't have the means to do that with my fermenter. I can do it in a keg and then transfer again to a different keg. That sounds like a lot of work and possible chance of oxidation/infection. Also trying to get my siphon all the way down into the keg might be a challenge.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:42 PM   #15
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For cold crashing you can crash in a keg then use a beer out to beer out jumper after pouring off a beer worth or two (to clear an area in the trub layer). You would do it gas in to full keg, beer out connected to empty keg beer out. bleed pressure off slowly from the receiveing keg and it should transfer. Stop transfer as sediment gets into the transfer line and all you should have is clean beer. No need to siphon.

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