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09-01-2011, 03:47 AM
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#11
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Johnstown, Colorado
Posts: 74
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Here's the recipe I used
Recipe Type: Extract
Yeast: US-05
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.052
Final Gravity: 1.009
IBU: 29.2
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 5
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 7
Tasting Notes: Awesome beer for the warmer months
This is an American Wheat Ale that I love. It resembles a hefe-weizen, but it tastes nothing like one. It's easy-drinking, with an evident sweetness from the honey and honey malt. The hops, especially the late addition Centennials, balances out the sweetness and gives it a nice subtle aroma. I brew this in the Spring typically, but it can easily be a refreshing summer beer.
Fermentables
6lbs Wheat LME
1lb Orange Blossom Honey
.5lb Honey Malt
Hops
.75oz Mt. Hood (6 AAU) @ 60 min
.75oz Mt. Hood (6 AAU) @ 20 min
1oz Centennial @ 1 min
Yeast
US-05
Add half the extract at the beginning of the boil, then add the remaining in the final 10-15 minutes. This will increase the bitterness a little bit while also keeping the beer lighter. If you want the beer to be cloudy, take a cup of regular wheat flour and add it to some water to create a slurry. Add the slurry to the boil with around 15-20 minutes left. Add the honey with about 3 minutes left in the boil.
You can easily sub the Centennials with Amarillos or possibly even Cascades.
This is one of my favorite beers.
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09-01-2011, 03:51 AM
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#12
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New Berlin, WI
Posts: 172
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts Likes Given: 1
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Like stated above... Take a few hydrometer readings over a few days. That's the only way to tell when fermentation is done. How long can depend on too many variables, but the numbers will stay the same when it's reached FG.
Sent from my iPad using HB Talk
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09-01-2011, 03:51 AM
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#13
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Johnstown, Colorado
Posts: 74
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Also, this is going to completely sound like a noob question but I do not rely upon the potential alcohol volume scale on the hydrometer to determine my ABV?
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09-01-2011, 04:03 AM
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#14
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New Berlin, WI
Posts: 172
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts Likes Given: 1
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That's more of a rough estimate assuming everything fully ferments out. If you search the forums or online you can find calculators where you plug in your original gravity and final gravity and it'll tell you your alcohol content. There is a math equation that will tell you how much alcohol you have: starting gravity minus final gravity divided by .0074
So 1.052-1.014= .038. .038/.0074=5.13% if your gravity is finished right now as is.
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09-01-2011, 04:04 AM
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#15
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Hood River, Oregon
Posts: 407
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toestothesun
Also, this is going to completely sound like a noob question but I do not rely upon the potential alcohol volume scale on the hydrometer to determine my ABV?
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You could but you need to look at the initial potential alcohol and then subtract the final potential alcohol to get a figure
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09-01-2011, 04:06 AM
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#16
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Johnstown, Colorado
Posts: 74
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Thanks guys
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09-01-2011, 02:00 PM
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#17
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Look under the recliner
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: State College, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,986
Liked 75 Times on 71 Posts Likes Given: 10
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The only "damage" you could do by transferring early is there will be more yeast to settle out and the beer might not be as clear. There should be plenty of yeast in suspension. They are the ones doing the bulk of the "work" anyway. Those that have settled out don't do much.
The big danger is bottling too early as that can result in bottle bombs.
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