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Old 08-08-2011, 01:24 PM   #11
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late to the party - what's done is done.
My IPAs (and doubles) sit 3 weeks before I touch 'em. Then I rack to secondary (I've just tossed pellets into the primary, but I don't get the same aroma/flavors - I think the trub absorbs too much). So...I rack to secondary and toss 'em in. Usually for a week, sometimes 2. Then bottle or keg.

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Old 08-08-2011, 02:19 PM   #12
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Def make sure you have a stable FG 1st. Then let it clean up & settle 3-5 days. Then dry hop 1 week & bottle. That's what I've been doing,& it works well.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Tizzomes View Post
I would give it another 2 weeks in the primary. Then rack it call me crazy but don't rush it it ain't Kool Aid...lol
Why so long? I have temperature issues so I was planning to follow this method:

"If you have trouble controlling your environmental temperature, your best results will come from bottling the beer as soon as possible. Whether using the blow-off, two-stage, or single-stage method, nine (9) days is appropriate, with twelve (12) days being an absolute maximum in the fermenters. This should be a sufficient amount of time for complete fermentation and adequate clarity. The least recommended of the systems is the single stage, due to the large amount of head space above the surface of the beer."

http://www.ebrew.com/primarynews/summer_brewing.htm

and
"The most important things to remember about brewing during the summer are:

1) sanitize everything that comes in contact with the wort/beer

2) prevent contamination by airborne wild yeast and bacteria

3) make all-malt ales at temperatures below 75 degrees

4) be on guard for signs of yeast autolysis

5) bottle in a maximum of 12 days

6) drink up!"

Today is day #13 - so with the above in mind, why wouldn't I go ahead and bottle?
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What I want to brew (so I don't forget): Fullers London Porter, "Desiree's" Cream Ale, Grimbergen red, SA Imperial Double Bock, Marshalls IPA, MacEwan's Scotch Ale
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:05 PM   #14
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Ha!lolz...Ancient history! OMG,is that outdated. That info must be 20 years old. Once you're past initial fermentation,temps aren't quite as critical. Although to be kept in check just the same. But not to the degree where you stop adding hops. Short ferment times were from the days of thinking autolysis was an easily aroused demon. They thought the yeast were dying when they settled to the bottom.
EEEEENGT! wrong! What it all boils down to is,we know better now on many of these subjects. We wouldn't steer you wrong...
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:43 PM   #15
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Very outdated info.

Really, we aren't going to gain ANYTHING by steering you wrong. We are joyfully sharing our experience so you, too, can make the best brew you can! And over the hundreds of thousands of gallons of home brew made, over the 80,000 members strong here, there's just a little bit of experience. Soak it up!

and read, read, read. You don't know us, you don't have to trust us - but consider that we're sharing because we love the hobby -

Read How To Brew - it's online at howtobrew.com, and that's a first edition - also outdated and old, but furnished free by the author, John Palmer.

Read Charlie Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing - and understand that it, too, is very old (just look at the photos!!!).

Understand that while kit sellers want you to make a good batch, they want you to come back just as quick as you can...so they stay in business. Many of the instructions are sub-optimal.

Also understand that if we got better results rushing things, that would be the FIRST thing you would hear. We, too, are anxious to taste the fruits of our labors. But...we've learned that it's better with time and temp control. So we emphasize that -



Best of luck to you!

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Old 08-08-2011, 11:46 PM   #16
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I just throw the hops in (without a bag.) They'll eventually settle to the bottom.
+1 I whirlpool at the end of chilling and then siphon from the edge of the boil kettle. We don't need no stinkin' hop bags !
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:59 PM   #17
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Def make sure you have a stable FG 1st. Then let it clean up & settle 3-5 days. Then dry hop 1 week & bottle. That's what I've been doing,& it works well.
That's bascially what I've done. FG always reaches target quickly for me. Active fermentation lasted about 2 days, I gave it the entire week to settle out, then racked to carboy and dry hopped on day 7. Today is day 14 (7 days in carboy). I'm hoping to bottle tomorrow before I leave town, so according to you method, I should be good, right?
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What I want to brew (so I don't forget): Fullers London Porter, "Desiree's" Cream Ale, Grimbergen red, SA Imperial Double Bock, Marshalls IPA, MacEwan's Scotch Ale
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:03 PM   #18
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If you got a stable FG,& you tasted no off flavors,sure. Otherwise,it'll need the mentioned 3-5 days to clean up.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:11 PM   #19
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Yeah - it was at target FG when I dry hopped, tasted good tho not hoppy enough yet, and was clear. Question - does adding hops change the gravity?


Also, what happens if you cold crash after bottling? I can't fit my carboy in the fridge.

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I've brewed: Oktoberfest, Alaskan Smoked Porter, Rochefort 10 trappist, "Reverend Desmond" trappist, DFH 90 clone, Sam Smith Oatmeal stout,Fat Tire Amber, Dave's Double Dog IPA, Leffe Blonde CLone (didn't work).

What I want to brew (so I don't forget): Fullers London Porter, "Desiree's" Cream Ale, Grimbergen red, SA Imperial Double Bock, Marshalls IPA, MacEwan's Scotch Ale
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:13 PM   #20
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No.

And why cold crash after bottling? You said the beer was clear, so bottle, let condition at room temps for 3+ weeks, THEN refridgerate for a few days before enjoying.

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