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Old 07-11-2012, 01:07 AM   #11
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Revvy,
Did you post your building process? Or get that plan from a DIY site? (-or buy it as is?)
Sweet looking setup.

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Old 07-11-2012, 01:18 AM   #12
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you will also find that the fuller the kegerator the less it will cycle. All the cold kegs have considerable mass and helps to keep the temps from changing rapidly.

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Old 07-11-2012, 01:31 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by zacjack View Post
Put your temperature probe in a glass / bottle of water at the middle of your keezer. I have a little "bump" in mine where the compressor motor is. I put a pint glass of water there and the probe in the water. This will give you a close representation of beer temperature and not just the air temperature. If you don't have a fan to circulate the air from bottom to top you may want to get one setup as well. Cold air will sink to the bottom so your kegs may be colder at the bottom than the top.
I don't mean to be a jerk - i might sound like a jerk lately because something has got me in a bad mood so if i come off as rude, I'm sorry.

But I'm dumbfounded that people will invest in high-tech industrial process controllers and then use stone age methods to manipulate them.

If you want a Love TS2 series controller to stay off longer, increase the value of the c0 parameter (minumum time for compressor to be OFF).

If you want it to run for a longer length of time when it switches on - another aspect of managing the duty cycle of a compressor - increase the value of the c1 parameter (continuous cycle time).

This is rocket science, and we can do it. We live in a post-lunar-landing era, and we don't need a jar of water to make our thermostat behave in a more sluggish way.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:31 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by BrettFitz View Post
Revvy,
Did you post your building process? Or get that plan from a DIY site? (-or buy it as is?)
Sweet looking setup.
Nah, I haven't posted my process, it was really no different than any other one on here. I just took the best ideas from all the 9 million other threads on here and went with the ideas that felt right.



The guts, tap shanks, secondary regulator, and electrical- the temp controller, the temp probe (sitting in water inside the pill bottle on the fermenter bucket) and the power outlet in back.



The rear, where the freezer and fan plug into.


The hinges for the lid.


The fan to circulate air.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:38 AM   #15
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nice build revvy, very nicely done.

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Old 07-11-2012, 01:41 AM   #16
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Thanks. I'm proud of it. I totally trashed my condo building it since I don't have a garage or work space. And I still haven't cleaned the place. But I think it's pretty cool.

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Old 07-11-2012, 01:48 AM   #17
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And i concur that revvy's build is very keen. Except for the pill bottle full of water. I know it works, I just also know that the thermal controller has the ability to obviate it.

Please excuse my pedantry, I am a quality assurance manager. I think i should go relax and have a home brew.

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Old 07-11-2012, 02:05 AM   #18
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And i concur that revvy's build is very keen. Except for the pill bottle full of water. I know it works, I just also know that the thermal controller has the ability to obviate it.

Please excuse my pedantry, I am a quality assurance manager. I think i should go relax and have a home brew.
Well, countless people on here, many who probably know just as much if not more than you (and definitely a LOT more about this than me) have made a great case for submerging the temp probe, not to as you say trick it but in order to get a more accurate temp reading since, and this makes sense to me, that we are interested in controlling the temps of a FLUID and not the surrounding air....

One of the things about this hobby is that usually there are more than one way to skin that brewing cat. And just because we may not agree with why something is done, more than likely other "experts" see things differently. Like we say on here quite often, "ask 10 different brewers the same question, and you'll get 12 different answers, and they will all be correct.

I also bet that there aren't a few "quality assurance managers" around who do the same type of job as you, but completely differently. And probably if they followed you around on the job for a day, looking at what how you'd do things, they'd probably need to have a homebrew after themselves.

All I know is that My compressor went on for 10 mintues, and now 48 minutes have gone by and it STILL hasn't come on again, so perhaps maybe the little pill bottle of water must be doing something right.

Or it's the thickness of my collar, or my insulation, or my fan, or the silicone caulk I used, or lucking out on figuring out the right settings on my Stc1000, or all of the above.

So go have your homebrew, probably brewed in ways that would probably cause apoplexy in some of our members because of one thing or another that YOU did. That's just the nature of the beast. We always don't agree on how to do things...and usually the various ways ALL achieve the same end.
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:12 AM   #19
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yep, we all have our own ways to do things and in the end we all seem to make beer.

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Old 07-11-2012, 02:22 AM   #20
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Well, countless people on here, many who probably know just as much if not more than you (and definitely a LOT more about this than me) have made a great case for submerging the temp probe, not to as you say trick it but in order to get a more accurate temp reading since, and this makes sense to me, that we are interested in controlling the temps of a FLUID and not the surrounding air....
I think it's not accuracy so much as normalization.

The data that you get from a thermal sensor in free air is as accurate as ever, but what it's telling you is not necessarily what you want to know. Unlike a liquid caught in a thin channel or a needle attached to a bimetallic spring, it reacts immediately to the changes around it.

Laboratory types call a thermometer "traceable" when, among other things, it averages the temperature it reads over a pre-determined duration of time, so that when they open the door of a refrigerator the number on the display gives them a useful impression of the temperature it has been reading instead of a reaction to the door being opened.

By adjusting the software parameters of a PI (Program and Interval) controller - in this case the c0 and c1 parameters to do what the OP asked, and r0 to make it less interested in minor deviations in temperature - we can make it behave in much the same way as it behaves when you swamp the sensor with a big thermal buffer. Bolting it to a large piece of metal would have a similar effect, fwiw, if you had good enough thermal contact.

But it won't make the display on the willhi controller change it's digits slower.

I referenced being a QA manager not because it means that i am smart - i am clearly a dumbass for getting talked into this management gig - but because it means that i have been conditioned to complain about things that don't seem right to me.
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