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Old 03-10-2013, 06:10 PM   #1
onipar
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Default Help with an English Barleywine recipe

I'm looking for some help tweaking this English Barleywine recipe:

15 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 73.2 %
3 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 2 14.6 %
2 lbs Biscuit Malt (23.0 SRM) Grain 3 9.8 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.4 %
2.00 oz Northdown [8.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 47.9 IBUs
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 6 12.8 IBUs
1.0 pkg British Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1098) [124.21 ml] Yeast 7

Est Original Gravity: 1.105
Est Final Gravity: 1.023
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 10.9 %
Bitterness: 60.6 IBUs
Est Color: 14.9 SRM

I'll probably mash around the 152-154 degree F range for 60 mins, with a batch sparge. I'm thinking of doing a 90 minute boil..maybe even longer?

I'm hoping for a nice, malty but balanced beer after aging.

Any suggestions regarding ingredients is welcome. I'm planning a big yeast starter, but not entirely sure how far to go with that.

Thanks!

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Old 03-10-2013, 06:51 PM   #2
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Just another quick question. I noticed after posting this that the very most biscuit you should use is 10% of the grist, and I'm nearly at that threshold. Should I back off the biscuit and up one of the other ingredients? Or perhaps simplify and take one grain out?

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Old 03-10-2013, 07:02 PM   #3
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Biscuit is fine if you're after a little toasty flavor; shouldn't be a problem with your other grains. You might consider dropping your mash temp to 148ish to help with the fermentability. Also, oxygen will be key so if you just shake and splash don't expect to get anywhere near final gravity. O2 injection is key, hit it right after chilling and again about 10 hours later before it kicks off. Attenuation is the toughest part of high gravity brewing...

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Old 03-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #4
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most traditional English recipes use only two-row and crystal, the hops look good though.I'm not a big fan of 1098 either, if you let the temps get away from you this yeast can be really tart.I much prefer 1099.
Good luck!!!

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Old 03-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #5
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Thanks for the tips. Okay, so I have no O2 injection gear. Should I not make this? I was planning on simply stirring and shaking, but if it's going to end overtly sweet from low attenuation, I'd rather not waste the time and money...

Maybe 1028 London Ale yeast would be better for this?

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Old 03-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #6
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1028 seems like a better fit as its more attenuative but wont throw those tart flavors, as far as wort aeration do you have acces to a cheap aquarium pump?

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Old 03-10-2013, 08:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alane1 View Post
1028 seems like a better fit as its more attenuative but wont throw those tart flavors, as far as wort aeration do you have acces to a cheap aquarium pump?
No, though I have considered buying one for this purpose. So definitely don't attempt this without some sort of aeration unit? Is there a specific type of aquarium pump I should get?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:03 PM   #8
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aeration is definitely reccomended but I'm sure the english made perfectly good barley wine without it, I would reccomend a huge starter if not a yeast cake though.If you could get your hands on a cheap pump w/ stone it would really help, especially with aeration after 12 hour of pitch.

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Old 03-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #9
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+1 on aerating twice if no O2. I did it twice even with O2. Shake and splash won't cut it for a barley wine. O2 really isn't that expensive if you shop around, and it's quick and easy and will improve all your brews. Aquarium pump is a distant second best because it still takes a while and you can have foaming issues. Air is only about 8ppm oxygen, which is the minimum you want for any brew. The boiled wort has nearly 0, so it takes quite a while to reach anything close to 8ppm with air, no matter how it's delivered. Pure O2 reaches 8 to 10ppm in roughly 1 second per point of gravity. 1.060, one minute, 1.090 90 seconds etc. An aquarium pump takes much longer as you are dealing with decreasing efficiency as the wort nears the concentration of O2 that's in the air. Kinda like how your chiller gets less efficient when the wort gets close to the temperature of the source water...

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Old 03-10-2013, 10:21 PM   #10
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http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WILLI...STEM-P699.aspx

I tried piecing one together myself and you can't do it cheaper than the link above, believe me. If you can afford it, get it. I recently brewed a 1.110 OG American Barleywine and I had a lot of blow off which concerned me but I fully believe it was the health of my yeast that attributed to an 83% attenuation in 3 days at the lower end of the strains temperature range. Proper aeration can carry yeast through some serious stuff. Unlike a poster above me alluded to brewers have been aerating beer for a long long time. British brewers in particular. British brewers are also known for "walking" their kettles in order to resuspend yeast in particularly difficult fermentations.
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