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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Have anybody ever solved the "earthy, dirty" aftertaste issue
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:35 PM   #11
The_Glue
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On my next brewday i will try a different sanitizer and will do batch priming.
@biggmatt: Yeah chlorine bleach is available. But isn't it the same stuff what ruins our brewing water?
@masonsjax: I did not really splashed it. Also i've seen here that yeast eats O2 anyways during bottle carbing. I am still open to the idea though. Can i deliberately oxidize commercial beer to compare the tastes?

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Old 12-24-2013, 05:06 PM   #12
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a new sanitizer (starsan instead of chemipro oxi)
I suspect this is the root of the issue right here. I'm not convinced that hydrogen peroxide based products are effective brewing sanitizers. I used One-Step for a while, but I got much better results after switching to StarSan.
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Old 12-24-2013, 06:26 PM   #13
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On my next brewday i will try a different sanitizer and will do batch priming.
@biggmatt: Yeah chlorine bleach is available. But isn't it the same stuff what ruins our brewing water?

Stay away from bleach. It can be used for a sanitizer, but then you need to rinse over and over. You no longer have a sanitized surface. Switch to Starsan if you can. Chemipro and other peroxides are not effective sanitizers.

@masonsjax: I did not really splashed it. Also i've seen here that yeast eats O2 anyways during bottle carbing. I am still open to the idea though. Can i deliberately oxidize commercial beer to compare the tastes?

There is more oxygen in the headspace than the yeast need for bottle conditioning. Adding more oxygen would be counter intuitive and may lead ot oxidation later.

You did not mention what type of hops you are using. Are they pellet form sealed in 1 ounce packages? Are they leaf hops stored in an open bin? Old hops can produce some stale and muddy off flavors. Poorly stored hops can introduce bacteria, especially when they are used for dry hopping.

Definitely change the sugar you use for priming. Corn sugar or table sugar in solution and batch priming.



I hope you can get this problem solved.
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:12 PM   #14
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You did not mention what type of hops you are using. Are they pellet form sealed in 1 ounce packages? Are they leaf hops stored in an open bin? Old hops can produce some stale and muddy off flavors. Poorly stored hops can introduce bacteria, especially when they are used for dry hopping.

Definitely change the sugar you use for priming. Corn sugar or table sugar in solution and batch priming.



I hope you can get this problem solved.
Pellets in 1 ounce packages. I've been storing them in the freezer but my LHBS might just stored it in a room around 70F since everyone is pretty new here to storing highly aromatic hops.
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:14 PM   #15
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Yes it is. Of course you can overdue it, but i've been using it almost 20 years. I shake everything when i pull it out of the water. I never had any chlorine taste in my beers.

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Old 12-25-2013, 08:20 PM   #16
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Yes it is. Of course you can overdue it, but i've been using it almost 20 years. I shake everything when i pull it out of the water. I never had any chlorine taste in my beers.
Since the time I started home brewing nearly 30 years ago some of my techniques have changed. A lot of my techniques have changed since I found HBT.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:45 PM   #17
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Sounded to me in your first post that you were saying you were pitching a ton of yeast. Maybe this is the problem along with leaving it sit on the yeast longer. Pitching plenty of yeast is usually a good thing but maybe if your pitching like 10x more than you need to maybe it would be an issue. Sounds like you need to think about things like water and ingredient freshness/quality. Messing with your ph and minerals can be tricky and in my experience a tiny bit goes a long way. Also I think it can take a little practice to get great all grain beers straight off the bat, old or poorly stored grains would not be good also. Sounds to me like maybe you have old extract. Also are you pouring your beers with the yeast sediment in the bottem? Are you letting it settle good and keeping the sediment out?

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Old 01-04-2014, 05:45 PM   #18
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Since i want to skip the use of a bottling bucket and bottling wand for a while can i add boiled and dissolved priming sugar to the primary during bottling time?


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Sounded to me in your first post that you were saying you were pitching a ton of yeast. Maybe this is the problem along with leaving it sit on the yeast longer. Pitching plenty of yeast is usually a good thing but maybe if your pitching like 10x more than you need to maybe it would be an issue. Sounds like you need to think about things like water and ingredient freshness/quality. Messing with your ph and minerals can be tricky and in my experience a tiny bit goes a long way. Also I think it can take a little practice to get great all grain beers straight off the bat, old or poorly stored grains would not be good also. Sounds to me like maybe you have old extract. Also are you pouring your beers with the yeast sediment in the bottem? Are you letting it settle good and keeping the sediment out?
I definitely did not overpitched for the first two brews and the off taste was there. By the end of the four weeks the beer looks pretty clear in my primary, i also try to avoid transferring slurry to the bottles. I keep the sediment in the bottles during pouring. I dont use extract. I know a lot of others who made beers without off tastes buying from this LHBS so i dont think that my grains were bad.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:45 PM   #19
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Since i want to skip the use of a bottling bucket and bottling wand for a while can i add boiled and dissolved priming sugar to the primary during bottling time?
You'd have no way of mixing it in thoroughly without stirring up your trub. Maybe look into carb tabs? You add one or two to each bottle. I don't have a lot of experience with them. Some brands contain "heading agents," Coopers is just sugar.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:58 PM   #20
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I just had an idea. My water have 50ppm magnesium by default. I think by the end of the boil this creeps up to 75-100ppm. Can this cause this offtaste?
Palmer says this:

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amounts greater than 50 ppm tend to give a sour-bitter taste to the beer
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