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Old 08-13-2012, 03:20 AM   #31
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All the previous advice is spot on. If you are serious about AG you should consider getting your own grain mill so you can control your crush.

I crush my own grain and I mash in a 5 gal Rubbermaid cooler also. 14.5 lbs of grain is pushing it and at that level it's a pretty thick mash. I have a second larger MT and any grainbill over 14 lbs goes in that one. Typically with a grainbill like that I would expect a post boil OG somewhere between 1.065 and 1.070.

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Old 08-13-2012, 04:22 AM   #32
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Yeah, I'm getting a clear picture of the whole operation now, thanks to the board members. It's appreciated.

Also very glad I'll be able to drink a beer I totally screwed up.

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Old 08-15-2012, 07:25 PM   #33
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Hey, turns out I did a batch sparge. I just let it sit in the grain for much longer than I needed to.

I also had a cheat taste. It's pretty good, though not bitter enough to my liking and it's a little acidic as well. Not bad at all though. Would drink.

If I would have added some herbs to that, it would be a decent gruit. HA

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Old 08-18-2012, 03:06 AM   #34
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I had a same problem when I started this hobby. The mash temp is definitely too low as everybody mentioned above. I suggest you should look into how your lautering is working. As I have installed March 809 HS beer pump and lauter about an hour, my efficiency is significantly better. Now I am getting 1.05ish constantly with almost the same amount of grain bill. I think it is worth a try.

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Old 08-18-2012, 09:32 AM   #35
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How long did you do the boil for? What was the hop schedule? And what was you Og after the boil?

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Old 08-18-2012, 04:19 PM   #36
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[QUOTE=watersr;4309844]

After 60 minutes drain the wort from the tun into your boil kettle. You will get about 3 to 3 1/2 gals depending on the amount of grain. Add your 170-175 degree water to the mash tun ( make sure valve is closed) add 5 gals or as much as the tun will hold. Some will say stir, some not. I do but I don't think it matters much. Let The mash sit for 10 minutes or so and the drain into the kettle. You are looking to get about 6.5 gals into the boiler. If you're short you can top up with a little water. Don't run off more than 6.5 gals.


Thank You for this great explanation.

I have a question though, if you end up with 3 to 3 1/2 gal from mashing and you sparge using 5 gal, wouldn't you end up with about 7 1/2 gal of wort ? or dose the grain soak up a bunch of the sparge water too?

Im wanting to switch to AG soon (still doing extracts), and trying to read/learn about AG before doing so.

I have been wanting to ask this one for a while now.
After steeping grains at 155 for 30 min, can you do the 170 deg sparge for 10 min using that same steeping water to get better sugar/enzyme transfer, just like you guys do with an AG batch?

Thanks Again
Cheers

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Old 08-18-2012, 04:23 PM   #37
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Another cross forum dude.
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:36 PM   #38
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Agreed. Your temperature is too low. You should be in the 152F to 156F range. If you start at 145F, you should raise it into the higher range for a little while (1/2 hour).

Remember that lower temperatures require longer times to finish conversion.

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Old 08-18-2012, 04:46 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fumanchu
Well that's good to know. I'll heat my water to 170 next time.
Try heating your sparge water to 185 next time. That way when it mixes with your 145 degree grain bed it comes to ~170. A little hotter is fine, 175 is fine. You won't extract tannins. I am now fully convinced that is a myth.
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:50 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerman0001 View Post
How long did you do the boil for? What was the hop schedule? And what was you Og after the boil?
1oz saaz for 60
0.5 saaz for 20
0.5 saaz for 5-7

OG was 1.052

Boil was on an electric kitchen stove that happens to be pretty weak. Still got a rolling boil but I hate those new red light nuisance stoves. Need more power.

I miss the old black coils.
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