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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > full boil brews.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:53 PM   #1
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Default full boil brews.

most of my kit instructions tell me to boil only 3 gallons of water but i have been boiling 6.5 gallons to get a 5 gal batch. does boiling all my water give me any advantage to the taste or aroma of the beer or should i just save the time and boil only the 3 gallons.

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:57 PM   #2
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most of my kit instructions tell me to boil only 3 gallons of water but i have been boiling 6.5 gallons to get a 5 gal batch. does boiling all my water give me any advantage to the taste or aroma of the beer or should i just save the time and boil only the 3 gallons.
I think it will be better with full boil. I suggest plugging the recipe into an online calculator to check how the change will impact hop utilization. You may end up wanting to adjust the schedule a bit.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:30 PM   #3
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thanks. witch one do you use or can you suggest one

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Old 02-22-2013, 05:38 PM   #4
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IME, a full boil doesn't make a beer any better (even with AG). about the only difference is increased hop utilization & maybe less maliard reactions. a high IBU beer (i.e. IPA) is a different story tho as you may not be able to get the necessary IBUs without a full boil.

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Old 02-22-2013, 05:44 PM   #5
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There is a downside of full boils to consider (above the extra time/energy required), and that is boiling your water removes most of the disolved o2 from solution. Making the leap from partial to full boils requires you to re-oxygenate to keep your yeast happy when you pitch. You can accomplish this a number of ways from simply splashing the wort, up to fancy o2 bottles, but it's something you have to consider.

All that said, I'm an all grain brewer who hasn't done a partial boil in ages.

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Old 02-22-2013, 05:58 PM   #6
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There is a downside of full boils to consider (above the extra time/energy required), and that is boiling your water removes most of the disolved o2 from solution. Making the leap from partial to full boils requires you to re-oxygenate to keep your yeast happy when you pitch. You can accomplish this a number of ways from simply splashing the wort, up to fancy o2 bottles, but it's something you have to consider.

All that said, I'm an all grain brewer who hasn't done a partial boil in ages.
Good point. With partial boils you have a couple gallons of top-off water to bring in some O2. I just switched to full boils last batch (new 10gal kettle), and realized I needed to spend more time agitating the wort after it cooled.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:07 PM   #7
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thanks. witch one do you use or can you suggest one
beersmith and brewtarget are good software choices. I use beersmith personally.

I originally switched to full boil because I thought it would lighten my extract beers. I then learned the best way to lighten my beers was to add the majority of my extract at the end of my boil. Now that I brew all grain, my pots are all too big to even consider a partial boil if I did an extract beer (6 gallons to reach the thermowell)
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:08 PM   #8
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I use a strainer I got at walmart that has extendable arms and after my work cools I dump it back and fourth a few times to get all the hops out and to airate . You cant have too much o2 before putinf in the fermenter can you

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Old 02-22-2013, 07:28 PM   #9
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I use a strainer I got at walmart that has extendable arms and after my work cools I dump it back and fourth a few times to get all the hops out and to airate . You cant have too much o2 before putinf in the fermenter can you
You really cant, at least not using that technique. There have been some studies done showing the effectiveness of various aeration techniques. Short of going to a pure O2 bottle, it's almost impossible to get past 8ppm. See: http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfmPersonally I use an aquarium pump and stone, and my yeast have been happy. After reading the above though, I learned that my previous habit of aerating for 20minutes was just a waste of time. I've cut it back to ~5 minutes now and as suggested by the data, haven't noticed a bit of difference in yeast health.

Your method sounds like it'll do just fine. If/when you are doing larger batches (I often do 10 gal for example), you'll find that you might need a new method though.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:09 PM   #10
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Cool thank you so much

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