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Old 11-03-2012, 02:34 PM   #11
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So you're saying that regardless of how many packs/smack packs that Mr. Malty tells me to pitch, I shouldn't pay attention to it, rather, I should simply pay attention to the actual number of cells?

Why do 99% of the threads on here say that's it's virtually impossible to overpitch yeast on our smaller (homebrew) scales then? See below...

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/poss...h-yeast-79391/

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/can-...-yeast-333338/
Not necessarily true. I admit that over-pitching is not as big of a problem as under pitching. This study (http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/...-deux-results/) suggests that in a blind tasting of the same beer that has been deliberately controlled, over-pitched, and under-pitched, that the over-pitched beer comes out with a thin-bodied, low ester profile matching your description.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:39 PM   #12
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Problems bottle to bottle is a post fermentation problem- most likely. You said you pour hydrometer sample back into fermenter. That's probably not a wise idea- with your small batches, I would invest in a refractometer. Also, if beer tastes good before going into bottles, then you have random bottles go funky, I would really look there for your answer. I had an issue with the dishwasher cleaning method a few years ago with a Red Ale- never did that again! If you don't have a bottling jet washer, they are cheap and work great. One more thing- your syringe method of priming adds another point to infect a batch (even though it would seem all would be infected). Also remember that BIG beers don't carb up like other (smaller) beers. My barleywines have never had alot of carbonation... Even after years of aging. Good luck on finding the answer.... I know it's frustrating- been there. Don't try to over complicate it- Keep It Simple.

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Old 11-03-2012, 02:42 PM   #13
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"Vegetal" and "cabbage" suggest to me DMS. How is your boil? How about the chilling? Any lid on during chilling?

"Slick" or "oily" is diacetyl. That could be from stressed yeast, but it also could be infection (usually pediococcus).

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Old 11-03-2012, 02:47 PM   #14
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My sanitation is as follows: I buy a gallon of distilled water. I've noticed that 1 gallon plastic cartons are sometimes MORE than a gallon, so I actually measure it out in a measuring cup, so I'm assured that I'm using exactly 1 gallon of distilled water. To that, I add just under 1 1/2 teaspoons of StarSan (most of the time I'll just use exactly 1 1/2 teaspoons). I'll shake it up and it gets nice and foamy. While I'm boiling, I take all of my equipment that I'll be using and put it in a glass casserole dish that can fit everything. I pour the StarSan mixture into the casserole dish and cover my equipment in it, letting it soak for approx 20 minutes prior to using it. I also fill up a little spray bottle with some of the StarSan mixture so I can spray things down that haven't been completely submerged in StarSan.
Not sure if this is relevant to your issues but the above ratio caused me to run to the kitchen and check something: 1 teaspon is @ 1/4 oz of StarSan. StarSan is normally mixed at 1oz per 5 gallons water. 1 1/2 teaspoons is @ .375 oz of StarSan.....entirely too much for 1 gallon of water. Perhaps residual sanitizer is causing your off-flavor?

I know I'm grasping at straws here because it sounds like you are doing everything else correctly (assuming, as Yooper stated, you're not boiling with the lid on your kettle) but it's all I have to offer. Good luck.

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Old 11-03-2012, 02:53 PM   #15
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"Vegetal" and "cabbage" suggest to me DMS. How is your boil? How about the chilling? Any lid on during chilling?

"Slick" or "oily" is diacetyl. That could be from stressed yeast, but it also could be infection (usually pediococcus).
I have a rolling and aggressive boil. I chill to 70 degrees in about 10-12 minutes. I never have the lid on.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:54 PM   #16
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Not sure if this is relevant to your issues but the above ratio caused me to run to the kitchen and check something: 1 teaspon is @ 1/4 oz of StarSan. StarSan is normally mixed at 1oz per 5 gallons water. 1 1/2 teaspoons is @ .375 oz of StarSan.....entirely too much for 1 gallon of water. Perhaps residual sanitizer is causing your off-flavor?

I know I'm grasping at straws here because it sounds like you are doing everything else correctly (assuming, as Yooper stated, you're not boiling with the lid on your kettle) but it's all I have to offer. Good luck.

---Todd
I'm horrendous with math. How much StarSan should I be using in 1 gallon of distilled water then?
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:56 PM   #17
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1/2 tbsp

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Old 11-03-2012, 03:34 PM   #18
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You also said you pour the hydrometer sample back into the beer? Do you sanitize the sample container before you use it? That seems like a perfect source for infection. I realize that in a 1 gallon batch of beer that sample is a lot, but I would never,ever consider tasting it and pouring the remainder back.

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Old 11-03-2012, 03:44 PM   #19
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I use the lil measuring thing on the starsan bottle. Remove the main cap & squeeze the bottle to get the starsan concentrate 3/4 of the way up to the 1/4oz line. That's the right amount of starsan for 1 gallon of water. No need to use tsp's,since the measure is part of the bottle.
Matter of fact,it's the same bottle used for Stabil fuel stabilizer.
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:46 PM   #20
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I think u should try to do simpler recipes until u find what your problem is. I don't think that you are overpitching your yeast, fermentation seems fine I think it's most likely your mash, conditioning or contamination. How clear are your beers? When I did my first pumpkin ale I realized that even with conditioning there was a lot of clouding that made my first 5 gallons taste much less like a beer and my 2nd 5 gallons with gelatin finings even though I used the same exact recipe.

Edit: after I looked through your process it seems u do everything correctly and sanitary. Idk what the problem could be.

I suggest u do simple recipes or maybe try extract brewing to simplify the process and u can narrow down what your problem is.

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