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Old 12-29-2010, 03:39 PM   #1
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I am just getting into brewing and have a couple of questions about the extract process after doing a lot of research and visiting the local home brew shop.

1) First question is just to clarify something. When you are adding your wort and cooling it and adding to chilled water then pitching the yeast, does the chilled water have to be previously boiled water, or just tap water? I know in my area our tap water is good for brewing (guy at the local shop said it at least). Do you have to let the chlorine evaporate etc, or just use cold water straight from tap?

2) I like IPA's and will get a couple simpler batches under my belt before trying an IPA but a question was raised while talking with the guy at the brew shop. He said you need a secondary fermenter (carboy) to do a IPA because of adding finishing? hops in the secondary. Is this the case, or is there an alternative method for doing IPA's with the standard basic setup?

Thanks in advance, looking forward to starting my first brew this weekend!!

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Old 12-29-2010, 03:47 PM   #2
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1) For a while, I used to buy gallons of spring water from the store to top it off, but ultimately I never noticed any off flavors etc from just plain tap water. Do what you find best, but I get city water and don't find it affects the flavor negatively.

2) He probably meant you need to secondary for dry-hopping, which is where you put hops into the fermenter, mostly for extra aroma and some flavor. I can't say you would necessarily NEED a secondary, but it would be easier for that purpose. However, I may be completely wrong on this one, so hopefully someone else will chime in if so

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Old 12-29-2010, 03:52 PM   #3
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1) I personally would pre-boil my top-off water just to be safe. Some do and some don't. Just depends on your confidence in clean tap water.

2) I am doing an IPA for my next batch and plan on dry hopping in the secondary. Once again....I'm sure there are some people that will argue both ways. If you are using pellet hops and dry hopping in a nylon bag you could probably get away with using your primary. If you are using leaf hops it would depend on the amount of krausen and junk on top of the beer. I believe this is probably the biggest reason people prefer to dry hop in a secondary....nice clean vessel.

One of the best aspects of this hobby is that there is a lot of room for your own style/methods.

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Old 12-29-2010, 04:40 PM   #4
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I boiled my top-off water for my first batch. IDK about your setup but my kit came with a 6.5 gal bottling bucket so I boiled about 4 gals (also trying to build an oxidation layer on my pot) and put it in my bottling bucket to cool. Boiled my wort, chilled it, put it into the fermenter, then topped it off to 5 gal with my clean previously boiled water. Just put the bottling bucket somewhere to let it cool. It seems like that larger volume of water in the bottling bucket took forever to cool (2-2.5 hours)

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Old 12-29-2010, 05:32 PM   #5
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I use a carbon filter (Pur) on my tap water, so I don't boil it. Boiling will pasteurize it, in case there's something living in your tap water (shouldn't be), and will gas off chlorine. If you're water supply is treated with chloramine instead of chorine then boiling won't remove it. You need to use a carbon filter or Campden tablets.

IPAs are usually dry-hopped - adding hops to the beer after it's fermented. Most brewers add their dry hops to a secondary fermenter - more properly called a bright tank, since no actual fermentation occurs there, but it's becoming increasingly common to just add the dry hops to the primary fermenter.

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Old 12-29-2010, 05:41 PM   #6
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I use a 6.5 gal glass carboy to primary ferment 10days to 2 weeks I love being able to see whats going on. then for secondary i a 6 gallon brew pail and add my hops there for dry hopping another week to 2 weeks.. I live in Overland park, ks and our water is good so i dont boil it yet or had yet any problems so i dont boil it. I also like IPA's and brewed my first monday i too brewed about 4 other batches before i went for a 1.078 OG beer and also made a yeast starter with build up 2 days and 2 feedings with my wyeast liquid pouch 1bil yeasties and also added O2 Bottle and stone to the mix..

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Old 12-29-2010, 05:49 PM   #7
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#2: I'm pretty new to brewing myself and I just finished bottle conditioning my first IPA attempt and dry hopping.

I did everything in the primary. There is hardly any nose at all in my final product. I'm guessing it had something to do with all of the trub at the bottom that would not be there if a secondary was used.

Oh another thing I learned was that its very difficult to pull out the dryhop bags from a carboy and it made me feel pretty dumb that I didn't think it through when I dropped them in. Live and learn!

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Old 12-29-2010, 05:53 PM   #8
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Good point thats why i only use the carboy for primary and the brew pail for secondary dry hopping.. QUestion how long did you have the dryhopp hops in the fermentor and what how did you use and how much?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chipper View Post
#2: I'm pretty new to brewing myself and I just finished bottle conditioning my first IPA attempt and dry hopping.

I did everything in the primary. There is hardly any nose at all in my final product. I'm guessing it had something to do with all of the trub at the bottom that would not be there if a secondary was used.

Oh another thing I learned was that its very difficult to pull out the dryhop bags from a carboy and it made me feel pretty dumb that I didn't think it through when I dropped them in. Live and learn!
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoppedIPA View Post
Good point thats why i only use the carboy for primary and the brew pail for secondary dry hopping.. QUestion how long did you have the dryhopp hops in the fermentor and what how did you use and how much?
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold and 0.50 oz Simcoe for 10 days. Mixed, split and loosly placed in two bags. Seemed like a lot of hops for such a small result.
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:16 PM   #10
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just for comparison sakes i used 3 oz of cascade for my pale ale and 4 oz of chinook for my chinook single hop ipa. I normally double what ever is called for dry hopping except the Chinook IPA i made that recipe on my own so no need to double the hops there already had that

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1.00 oz Amarillo Gold and 0.50 oz Simcoe for 10 days. Mixed, split and loosly placed in two bags. Seemed like a lot of hops for such a small result.
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