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Old 02-08-2013, 01:37 PM   #11
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Yeah, there's a difference between Pilsner (beer style) and Pilsner (malt). Like they said above, pilsner malt is just a light-colored malt often used to make the pilsner style of beer (which is a lager and more complicated than you probably want for a beginner beer). You can make a fine ale using pilsner malt.

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Old 02-08-2013, 02:22 PM   #12
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Thanks for all of the help. I sometimes forget Papazian's saying to relax, and overthink things. Really looking forward to my first brew. All of your replies have instilled a lot of confidence. I'll let you know how it turns out!

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Old 02-08-2013, 02:27 PM   #13
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Papazian can say that all he wants, but a new brewer is gonna overthink it anyway. The advice helps, but there's nothing like a couple of brews under your belt to help you relax.

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Old 02-08-2013, 02:29 PM   #14
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Thanks for all of the help. I sometimes forget Papazian's saying to relax, and overthink things. Really looking forward to my first brew. All of your replies have instilled a lot of confidence. I'll let you know how it turns out!
Since you're only boiling 1.5 gallons of wort, I'd suggest adding the vast majority of the extract (especially the canned stuff) at flame out.

In other words, don't boil all that extract. It'll darken terribly, and turn brown, and taste like "cooked extract".

I don't have TJOH in front of me, but it was written in the 70s initially. It's great, and I totally love Charlie Papazian, but with newer ingredients and knowledge some new techniques have evolved.

Since the canned stuff is prehopped, I'd go ahead using one pound of DME per gallon boiling (sounds like about 1/2 of your package) in the boil, add the hops as indicated, and when you finish the boil, add the rest of the LME and DME when you turn off the heat (so it doesn't go straight to the bottom and scorch, take it off of the burner when you add it, as well as turn off the burner!) and then use a whisk to stir it well (it'll be a little lumpy at first).

Then cool it in an ice bath, add to your fermenter and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Add the yeast when you cool that to 65 degrees and you'll be all set.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:37 PM   #15
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Are you boiling 1.5 gallons because that's what the recipe with the kit calls for or because that's the biggest boil you can do? If you have a bigger pot, your beer will benefit by a doing a bigger boil and using less top-off water.

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Old 02-08-2013, 04:03 PM   #16
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Since you're only boiling 1.5 gallons of wort, I'd suggest adding the vast majority of the extract (especially the canned stuff) at flame out.

In other words, don't boil all that extract. It'll darken terribly, and turn brown, and taste like "cooked extract".

I don't have TJOH in front of me, but it was written in the 70s initially. It's great, and I totally love Charlie Papazian, but with newer ingredients and knowledge some new techniques have evolved.

Since the canned stuff is prehopped, I'd go ahead using one pound of DME per gallon boiling (sounds like about 1/2 of your package) in the boil, add the hops as indicated, and when you finish the boil, add the rest of the LME and DME when you turn off the heat (so it doesn't go straight to the bottom and scorch, take it off of the burner when you add it, as well as turn off the burner!) and then use a whisk to stir it well (it'll be a little lumpy at first).

Then cool it in an ice bath, add to your fermenter and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Add the yeast when you cool that to 65 degrees and you'll be all set.
Thanks for the tips. I think I will try this method. And yes, it is an old book, but I believe (or hope), it covers the basics for newbrewers like me to brew a successful first batch. I never thought about the scorching, although it makes plenty of sense. Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:04 PM   #17
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Are you boiling 1.5 gallons because that's what the recipe with the kit calls for or because that's the biggest boil you can do? If you have a bigger pot, your beer will benefit by a doing a bigger boil and using less top-off water.
I actually picked up a 5-gallon stainless steel stockpot, so I could boil more water with it. I never thought of the icebath technique previously mentioned. I was just going to put the hot wart into very cold water in the carboy. Would you recommend boiling with 3 or so gallons?
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:10 PM   #18
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When I did extract on the stovetop, I usually did 3-3.5 gallon boils, so that should be fine.

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Old 02-08-2013, 04:22 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by jhmills1981 View Post
I actually picked up a 5-gallon stainless steel stockpot, so I could boil more water with it. I never thought of the icebath technique previously mentioned. I was just going to put the hot wart into very cold water in the carboy. Would you recommend boiling with 3 or so gallons?
If I understand you correctly, you plan to put the hot wort into the carboy, along with cool water? If its a glass carboy, PLEASE DON'T ADD HOT WORT TO THE CARBOY!!!

Thermal shock could shatter the glass.

Follow Yooper's advice on the ice bath, and then transfer the wort once its cooled off.

If I misunderstood, my apologies. Just trying to look out

Good luck, and welcome to the addiction!
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:23 PM   #20
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If I understand you correctly, you plan to put the hot wort into the carboy, along with cool water? If its a glass carboy, PLEASE DON'T ADD HOT WORT TO THE CARBOY!!!

Thermal shock could shatter the glass.

Follow Yooper's advice on the ice bath, and then transfer the wort once its cooled off.

If I misunderstood, my apologies. Just trying to look out

Good luck, and welcome to the addiction!
You completely understood. And I definitely will be using an ice-bath now. Thanks for re-iterating that though. I would have been quite upset brewing my first batch only to have lost it and had to clean up 5 gallons of spoiled brew!
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