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Old 06-25-2013, 01:16 AM   #11
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Beer frog, my .02. I just started doing my own recipes over kits as well. There is a lot of info on the site (especially Yoopers advice and recipes), but the best tool I found was the Beersmith program. Free 21 day trial and it will tell you what is exactly going to happen with your recipes. It will also let you change characteristics and tell you what to add/subtract from the recipe if you want it hoppier or lighter/darker. It will also tell you if you need a yeast starter or you are good to pitch with what you have. As well as converting all grain recipes to partial/ extract. Have I doted enough.

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Old 06-25-2013, 01:36 AM   #12
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First of all, listen to Yooper - she won't lead you down the wrong path.

Second (just an option) - you might think about switching the hop additions. The experimental is the higher AA hop, so you'll get a little more bitter bang for your buck adding that at 60 minutes. Also I don't know how the experimental smells or tastes, but personally I love centennial, so that would be my flavor and aroma additions.

I'm sure it will make pretty good beer either way. Good luck.

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Old 07-01-2013, 07:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
I'm terrible with metric, but I'll give it a try!

First, do not use amber or dark extract- use the lightest extract you can find. Light, pale, or extra light is good.

If using liquid extract:

2.5 pounds LME (1 KG is close enough)
.75 pound crystal 40L (340 grams but your 318 grams is enough!)

Steep the grains, discard, and then add the extract. Bring to a boil.

add hops.
1 oz centennial hops 60 minutes (28 grams)
1 oz experimental hops 15 minutes (28 grams)
1 oz centennial hops 5 minutes (28 grams)
1 oz experimental hops 0 minutes (28 grams)

Add 5.5 pounds LME at flame out. (2.5 kg)

top up to 5 gallons with cool water when wort is chilled (19 liters total)

Should be an OG of 1.057, on the bottom for an IPA, but in the middle for an APA. Should be nice and hoppy!
Hey Yooper, I'm totally gonna use your recipe I just have a couple of final questions. I will change my Amber malt extract for Light Malt extract. The tins it comes in are (1.5kg // 3.31 lbs // 1.1 L). Am I correct thinking you are saying for the initial boil I should add two thirds of a tin to the wort I produce by steeping my crystal and then boil this and add the hops to that. Then I should add 5.5 pounds after all he hops have gone in and I've turned off the heat? (why not just add it all together at the start?) I would need to buy another tin as I'd only have 4.4 lbs left to add or do you think this would be sufficient?

The only thing I'm worried about is getting the correct SG. The guy at the shop was saying that is the tricky part if your not using a recipe and if your boiling the wort then topping it up with water I could add too much and dilute it so the SG is too low.

I wonder - am I making any sense here?

Also I have some Irish Moss for finings, when and how much should I use? Is it a teaspoon or so during the boil? Like in the middle.

Finally with the hops, as I'm using fresh whole cone hops can I just add them into the boiling wort and then when I pour it into my primary just filter them out with a sieve? I have some muslin bags but why not just add them loose it may help impart more flavour? Also when I dry hop can I add them loose then too?

A million questions I know but I'm pretty scared of mucking it all up and wasting lots of good quality ingredients. My first beer was boss, the second not so much, I was brewing in Scotland in mid winter and it was tough to keep the temp up. I want this to be a success.

Bobb
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbthebeerfrog View Post
Hey Yooper, I'm totally gonna use your recipe I just have a couple of final questions. I will change my Amber malt extract for Light Malt extract. The tins it comes in are (1.5kg // 3.31 lbs // 1.1 L). Am I correct thinking you are saying for the initial boil I should add two thirds of a tin to the wort I produce by steeping my crystal and then boil this and add the hops to that. Then I should add 5.5 pounds after all he hops have gone in and I've turned off the heat? (why not just add it all together at the start?) I would need to buy another tin as I'd only have 4.4 lbs left to add or do you think this would be sufficient?
Yes this is what she means, it's called a late extract addition. It helps avoid overdarkening of the wort that may also change the flavors. Not boiling in such a concentrated wort may also help with hop utilization although there seems to be a bit of debate on this (that I frankly don't really follow since I don't do partial boils).
So you have 2 tins or 6.6 lb? That will give you about a 1.048 beer in 5 gallons. To get your gravity back up to range you could sub in some dry extract, which is easier to store and measure (0.8 lb DME = approx 1 lb LME).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbthebeerfrog View Post
The only thing I'm worried about is getting the correct SG. The guy at the shop was saying that is the tricky part if your not using a recipe and if your boiling the wort then topping it up with water I could add too much and dilute it so the SG is too low.
The only way to miss is if you are not measuring your end volume accurately. The sugar won't boil off, so if you end with 5 gallons you won't be too low.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbthebeerfrog View Post
Also I have some Irish Moss for finings, when and how much should I use? Is it a teaspoon or so during the boil? Like in the middle.

Finally with the hops, as I'm using fresh whole cone hops can I just add them into the boiling wort and then when I pour it into my primary just filter them out with a sieve? I have some muslin bags but why not just add them loose it may help impart more flavour? Also when I dry hop can I add them loose then too?
1 tsp irish moss is the typical amount - usually with 10-15 min to go. Your plan with the hops should be fine. I often have trouble getting whole hops to sink after dry hop, you just need to carefully rack from under them or do what many do and tie a sanitized hop bag over the end of your siphon.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbthebeerfrog View Post
The only thing I'm worried about is getting the correct SG. The guy at the shop was saying that is the tricky part if your not using a recipe and if your boiling the wort then topping it up with water I could add too much and dilute it so the SG is too low.
Use this calculator. If want to get technical:

Let's consider a the amount of sugar it will take to raise 1 gallon of liquid 1 gravity point. Let's call this unit a ... well, let's call it a "unit".

A pound of DME has 45 of these units of sugar and a pound of LME has 37 units of these sugars.

And that's it! We're done.

Suppose you want to make a 5.5 gallon batch of wort with an o.g. of 1.062:

Well, 1.062 is 62 gravity points. We want to raise 5.5 gallons 62 points. That's 5.5*62 = 341 units of sugar we need.

We have a 4.4 lb can of LME. That's 4.4 * 37 = 163 units. We need 178 more units.

We buy another 3.3 lb can. That's 3.3 * 37 = 122 units. We need 56 more units.

We'll get it from the DME. 56 units divide by 45 units per lb is 1.25 lbs needed.

7.7 lbs LME
1.25 lbs DME
======
O.G. 1.062.

Neat!

{Double check:
7.7 * 37 = 284.9
1.25 * 45 = 56.25
=======
341.15

1 + 341.15/5.5 = 1.062}


Of course, if you are doing this in metric there are completely different numbers for different units.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:32 AM   #16
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Or another way of thinking of it:

LME = 37 units per lb
DME = 45 units per lb

4.4 lbs of LME = 4.4 * 37 = 163 units. 163 units/5.5 gallons = 29.6 point => 1.0296. Which is too low.

So we add 3.3 lbs of LME = 7.7 * 37 = 284.9 units. 284.9 units/5.5 = 51.8 point => 1.0518. That's pretty good but lets bump it up a notch.

And so forth...

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:08 AM   #17
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Hey guys, so I made my beer and it looks and smells GOOOOOOD so far! It's a lovely amber colour and I decided to only use centennial in the boil for bittering and aroma, I'm gonna dry hop exclusively with the Experimental 366 (mainly to keep it as fresh as possible, by using both it would mean the dry hopping hops would be open for a week losing their freshness).

I had a wee problem with the boil, in that the brew kettle shut off halfway through the hour - I decided to rack it then after changing the fuse, plug etc and nothing worked. Then as I was transferring it it came back on so I finished the second half of my boil. This resulted in maybe 24.5 L instead of 23 at the end of the boiling.

One thing I want to ask you is what happens if you add the yeast before you take the SG. I ALWAYS make this mistake! I'm too eager, but I instantly took a reading the second after I pitched the yeast. Will it affect the SG? I had put the white Labs liquid yeast into a starter jar with some cooled wort so it was active when it went it. The reason I ask is because my SG was supposed to be 1.058 but was actually 1.046 when I took the reading directly after pitching the yeast. Is that because the volume of liquid was a bit higher than it was supposed to be or because I pitched the yeast first, or both?

Anyway looks like I'm gonna be making a hoppy as hell Amber ale which I'm still pleased with!

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Old 07-11-2013, 12:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbthebeerfrog
Hey guys, so I made my beer and it looks and smells GOOOOOOD so far! It's a lovely amber colour and I decided to only use centennial in the boil for bittering and aroma, I'm gonna dry hop exclusively with the Experimental 366 (mainly to keep it as fresh as possible, by using both it would mean the dry hopping hops would be open for a week losing their freshness).

I had a wee problem with the boil, in that the brew kettle shut off halfway through the hour - I decided to rack it then after changing the fuse, plug etc and nothing worked. Then as I was transferring it it came back on so I finished the second half of my boil. This resulted in maybe 24.5 L instead of 23 at the end of the boiling.

One thing I want to ask you is what happens if you add the yeast before you take the SG. I ALWAYS make this mistake! I'm too eager, but I instantly took a reading the second after I pitched the yeast. Will it affect the SG? I had put the white Labs liquid yeast into a starter jar with some cooled wort so it was active when it went it. The reason I ask is because my SG was supposed to be 1.058 but was actually 1.046 when I took the reading directly after pitching the yeast. Is that because the volume of liquid was a bit higher than it was supposed to be or because I pitched the yeast first, or both?

Anyway looks like I'm gonna be making a hoppy as hell Amber ale which I'm still pleased with!
Yeast doesn't affect density as it is not dissolved (like sugar) in the beer.

Remember it this way: adding boats to a lake doesn't affect the density of water.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:37 PM   #19
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Hey peeps, wanted to give you feedback on the beer I made.

It turned out fantastic! I couldn't have asked for more! Lovely Amber colour, good bitterness, and fantastic hoppy aroma. It's 5.5% and my friends all love it, one said they couldn't believe it was a homebrew! I gave it to a friend who works in a craft beer shop and even he says it tastes as good as the equivalent beers in the shop! Thanks so much for all your help especially Yooper.

I'm gonna add this recipe to this website under the name MUSASABI 366 so look out for it!

Bobb

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