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Old 01-12-2013, 12:34 PM   #11
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Take the hydrometer reading to see if it's at FG before racking. Don't rack if it isn't done.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:41 PM   #12
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Makes sense. I will plan to take the reading and only rack if at FG.

I made sure the lid was on tight after transporting. Pushed down pretty hard. I also checked this at the 77 hour point and lid was as tight as could be. Believe I was at a point where I thought I might have had it a little lose, but now Im mostly convinced that fermentation took place and I just missed the airlock bubble show :-)

I will definitely update later today or tomorrow after getting a reading.

Thanks for all the input.

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Old 01-12-2013, 01:08 PM   #13
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The kit doesn't say when to transfer to the secondary, so I'm going by the 1-2-3 rule.
That 1-2-3 rule is outdated from back when it was thought that the yeast would autolyze and give off flavors. With the yeast available now you could leave the beer in the fermenter for a year without problems and people posting on this board have done just that. Instead of racking it off to secondary in 1 week and chance getting a stuck fermentation, give it at least 2 weeks before you transfer as all fermentation should be done before racking to secondary, or do like many of us and just leave it in the primary fermenter for 3 weeks so the yeast have plenty of time to clean up the byproducts and then rack it to the bottling bucket and bottle it up.

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I made sure the lid was on tight after transporting. Pushed down pretty hard. I also checked this at the 77 hour point and lid was as tight as could be. Believe I was at a point where I thought I might have had it a little lose, but now Im mostly convinced that fermentation took place and I just missed the airlock bubble show :-)
I have one bucket fermenter that the lid goes on so tight I have trouble getting it back off and you would think that that would be the best seal but most of the time the airlock doesn't bubble at all with that bucket. Bubbling isn't a sure sign of fermentation and it won't hurt to open the bucket to check for the sure signs, the krausen or krausen ring left on the bucket when the krausen falls or the hydrometer reading that will show for sure if your beer fermented.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:14 PM   #14
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I have that same problem with the Brewer's Best Ale Pail. No "O" ring seal in the lid,but it goes on so tight,I have to get my son to pry it off. Home cheapo & blowe's have those lever bucket lid openners hidden somewhere,& the hired help doesn't have a clue what I'm asking for. I def need one of those for the ale pail,& a big paint strainer bag to improve my biab process for partial mash.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:34 PM   #15
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Just put my brew in the fermenter last night (Brewers Best Ale Pail) and I also yet to see signs of activity in the airlock. Is it bad if the airlock is filled up to high with water? I hope it is fermenting away and I just dont see signs. I dont think I aerated all that well. The yeast also kinda clumped together when I put it in. Is that bad?

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Old 01-12-2013, 02:53 PM   #16
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Relax. Sometimes it takes longer for the yeast to get started. If you used dry yeast it isn't real critical that you aerate so well and I wouldn't worry about the yeast clumping either. The yeast will find the sugars to eat and will disperse just fine.

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Old 01-14-2013, 02:49 AM   #17
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So, hydro reading at the 8 day mark is at 1.014, going by the kit FG should be 1.012, so I think I'm about at the right point.

Tasted from the Thief and IMO its on track. Honestly I picked up more caramel malt taste in this than I have in any other Irish Red, which is fine by me. The mouhfeel seemed a little thin in so hopefully that comes around.

Going with others advise and going to let it sit in the primary for two more weeks, then bottle and wait 2 - 3 weeks after that.

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Old 01-14-2013, 06:14 AM   #18
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Instead of 1-2-3 try 2-2-3 or 4-3 if you want to skip a secondary. Your call on that, I do both ways. The extra week just helps your beer.

I have to compliment your research prior to brewing. Your approach seemed well thought out.

When I use dry yeast, I don't expect to see airlock activity till the third day. It will then bubble out of the airlock for 4-5 days steady. As long as you pitched your yeast around 70-80 degrees, you should be fine.

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Old 01-28-2013, 03:20 AM   #19
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Okay another update.

Transferred to bottles today. FG measured at 1.011 and going by the kits estimated 1.012 I was happy with this. I messed up when tilting the primary while racking to the bottling bucket, probably lost about 3 beers by almost dropping it in the tilt process. Could've waited for the sediment to settle but since this was very clear I didn't want to play around and end up picking up a bunch of the trub.

I ended up with 48 bottles. I am planning to give one a shot in a couple weeks, then another the following, and if all is good at that point I will move to the fridge.

Was glad that I found revvys bottling tips yesterday and would recommend reading through his approach for all that are doing this their first time.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bott...ebrewer-94812/

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Old 01-29-2013, 07:03 AM   #20
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Next time you transfer to the bottling bucket, use a small block of scrap wood (2x4 1x2) to rest the bucket on. I also use the lid wrench which is about an inch and a quarter.

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