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Old 11-20-2012, 06:43 PM   #11
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The Cooper's instructions say that too. The yeast can take the high temp,but it won't taste as good as the lower temps will produce. I learned that the hard way. Came on here & learned what others did. I was lucky that stuff aged out in the bottles in a couple weeks.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:55 PM   #12
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You want to buy a bottling wand and some simple pvc tubing to bottle (assuming you also have a bottling bucket).

I know most people say wait 3 weeks for bottles to carb, but all but one (imperial stout) of my brews have been carbed within 10 days. If you give it another 2 weeks in bottles you will be good to go by Christmas, assuming you REMEMBER PRIMING SUGAR! Hahaha.

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Old 11-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #13
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I've had one or two carb that fast,10 & 11 days. but conditioning the flavors always takes at least a week longer for the beer to be at it's peek.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:01 PM   #14
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I think you're rushing it, and the quality is going to suffer. You fermented way too hot (which probably explains why it finished so fast), you're going to have some very dominant off-flavors. If you insist on bottling right away, you're going to end up with cloudy beer with a lot of sediment in the bottle, that tastes like nail polish remover. Don't get discouraged, we've all made batches like that, you're doing great for your first attempt.

For your next batch, ferment at a much cooler temperature (16 - 20 C), and leave it for at least 2 weeks before you even think of bottling. You'll notice a huge improvement from your current batch.

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Old 11-21-2012, 07:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfinleyui

For beers that are naturally a bit cloudy (I've got a witbier in there now), is there any reason other than visual clarity to let it sit, assuming 3 straight equal gravity readings?
Yes, the most important thing is to give the yeast time to clean up some of the byproducts of fermentation. Certain yeast strains, like those used for wit beers, are less flocculant, so they stay in suspension regardless. Leave the beer for 2-3 weeks and you'll have a better tasting beer. No need to worry about it clearing up on you, assuming you used the appropriate yeast. And you can always swirl the bottles to resuspend the yeast if it doesn't turn out cloudy enough for you.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:55 PM   #16
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Well, that was all fun. We took readings every day for 3 days and it got down to 998(!), thinking it'd be about 7.5% and it was still going down. The next day we went to take a reading and the hydrometer was smashed on the bottom. So, a new one duly purchased and the reading was 1008 (it was this 4 days prior), we think that the hydrometer must have had a tiny crack and leaked in a little beer making it heavier. 2 more readings at 1008 and it was pretty clear we bottled it.

So, now its in a warm dark place for a week at least before going somewhere cooler.

2nd brew (Coopers larger) is well underway, brewed at a much lower 21degrees (as suggested, thanks) and sitting at 21 still, I'm having to use a fish tank heater as the current brew location is so cold (my lounge! But the temp is very variant)

Can larger go in clear bottles? I've saved about 20, but don't want to ruin the beer.

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Old 11-29-2012, 01:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samg View Post
So, now its in a warm dark place for a week at least before going somewhere cooler.
Define "warm?" Room temperature is fine, but I hope you're not actively trying to heat it.

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2nd brew (Coopers larger) is well underway [...]

Can larger go in clear bottles?
I'm sure it was just a slip of the fingers, and I don't mean to pick on you, but you did it twice, so I feel compelled to correct you. It's lager, not larger.

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2nd brew (Coopers larger) is well underway, brewed at a much lower 21degrees (as suggested, thanks) and sitting at 21 still, I'm having to use a fish tank heater as the current brew location is so cold (my lounge! But the temp is very variant)
The key is to keep that temperature in the 60's (F) during that critical first week of fermentation. Temperature variation is undesireable, as it will confuse the yeast and potentially cause them to go dormant. However, 5 gallons of beer has a pretty sizeable thermal mass, so any minor temperature variations will be smoothed out.

Also, I believe pretty much all LME "kits" are ales, even the ones bearing a "Lager" name. The yeast is probably an ale yeast, and you'd ferment it at ale temperatures, not lager temperatures. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the kit instructions for their "Lager" kits still direct you to ferment at room temperature and don't require any special hardware, such as a temperature-controlled fermentation chamber (which would be necessary for a real lager).

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Can larger go in clear bottles? I've saved about 20, but don't want to ruin the beer.
Sure thing. It's not the color of the glass that spoils the beer, it's light. Put it in any color bottles you want - just keep them in the dark (like a closet or a fridge). Sunlight (specifically, UV rays) and oxygen are beer's 2 worst enemies.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:28 PM   #18
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Well,you're partly right. Cooper's OS (Original Series) Lager comes with ale yeast. The European & Thomas Cooper's Lager cans are true lagers that come with lager yeast. As does the Mexican Cervesa as well.
Leave the bottled beers in the warm place (70F+) for the entire time they need to carb & condition,3-4 weeks on average. Then at least a week in the fridge to clear any chill haze,get co2 into solution well,& compact the yeast trub on the bottom of the bottles for a better,cleaner pour.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:43 PM   #19
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My lounge goes from normal temps of 21 to about 14 over night, so I need to regulate it a little. It's happy at 21 with the heater.

Thanks for the correction, but it was a mistake, to autocorrect spell checker doesn't have the word lager in it!

It's all me to me and its for Christmas, so I'm having to do my best. In the new year I'll do it over a longer period of time. For what it's worth, it tasted very good just before bottling

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